Red alder grove

Cruiser

Chumono
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Location
Western Washington
USDA Zone
8a
February 5, 2023
Juvenile trees planted in a shallow Anderson flat.
Substrate is 60/40 sifted fir bark and pumice.
Placed in full sun.

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9/9/23
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Rapid vertical growth. (Expected for this species).

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Leaves run fairly big, but reduction appears possible.

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Lateral branches quickly form from stalked buds at the bases of leaves that are cut. (If they get enough sun).
Middle stem shows extended branch with residual leaf petiole. Right stem shows bud at base of cut leaf and untouched pair just below it.

Throughout the summer:
-Trees were pruned to encourage canopy ramification, prevent too much shading of one another, and remove lower growth.
-Light wiring was applied to get some branches where they need to be.
-In the hottest parts of summer trees needed watering twice a day or more. New growth dramatically wilts when it dehydrates.
-The group rooted through the Anderson flat multiple times over the season but was prevented from establishing in the ground. Root growth is strong.

Future plans:
-Consider letting trees root into the ground to thicken up.
-Continue pruning to build ramification.
-Wire trunks to create more graceful sweep.
-Defoliate to reduce leaf size.
-Somehow encourage moss or lichens to grow on trunks.
-Potentially add salmonberry, western hemlock seedlings, or small ferns to the understory.


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Uniform alder grove with a sea of devils club below. 22 mbf/ac. Not bad.

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Red alder along the edge of a clear cut show off linear, wispy, graceful forms.

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These alder exceed 100’ in height. Trunks grew at an angle above a creek to maximize sun exposure.

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Moss-covered trunks. Shade tolerant western hemlock have become established in the understory.

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Bark is thin, even in maturity. Splotchy grey and white.
 
September 30, 2023

Trunks wired.

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Why?
-Portray slanted growth habit and sweep.
-Move trunks to minimize crossing and make all visible from the front.
-Position smaller and outer trees away from main canopy to get more light.

How?
-Aluminum wire pushed through substrate and fed through the holes in bottom of anderson flat, then anchored off somewhere.
 
Really interested in seeing how well a Red Alder leaves reduce.

Putting these species into a forest is a really good way to determine how well this can be done.

Wondering about the inclination of this species to toss dead “Widow Maker” branches on top. Likely this isn’t an issue for years though. Also proper bonsai horticulture May prevent this.

Looking forward to seeing future posts!

cheers
DSD sends
 
I cut the big leaves off. @Cruiser regarding watering needs in summer, I have mine double-potted but almost think this is a species that could be submerged in water much like one would do with bald cypress?
Do you plan on adding rocks?
A forest seems a good way to capture the species natural form in miniature.
 

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I cut the big leaves off. @Cruiser regarding watering needs in summer, I have mine double-potted but almost think this is a species that could be submerged in water much like one would do with bald cypress?
Do you plan on adding rocks?
A forest seems a good way to capture the species natural form in miniature.
You can keep them partly in water much like a bald cypress. I have another in a pond basket which was half submerged. The tree rooted right through the side of the basket.

I don’t plan to add rocks but do think the understory could have something to balance the emptiness created by the branch-less bottom trunks. Alder grove understories are usually filled with sword fern or shrubs. So if I could find miniaturized ferns that would be nice.
 
I have collected approximately 140 red alders in Oregon, most of them going to my growing mentor who sells them and spends a lot of time developing them, streaming live video on how to work with them etc.

Red alder reduces easily under ramification, defolation, and the typical bonsai horticultural setup (i.e. root volume constriction).

FWIW, YMMV, my two cents, flame suit on, etc, but: There is no good reason to immerse this species in water, and many reasons not to. Plant it in 100% akadama and top dress with moss and treat like a normal bonsai. The shallower the composition the better the water retention. Put under shade cloth in the summer.

Side note, you have at least 7 thuja seedlings growing in that flat!
 
@MaciekA Yeah, really wondered about immersing these trees in water... red alder happen to get flooded around here in nature, not by choice....but usually these trees do no last long... root rot or beaver kill.

No worries about the flame retardant suit...;) Yet just to correct the record. Water retention in bonsai is a tad more complicated.

Grain size has a lot to do with this as well as width of pot. Smaller grain size and/or wider the pot will yield the most water retention, rather than merely a shallow pot.

The height of the perched water table will be the same no matter the pot size/shape given similar sized particles.... so the wider/longer the pot, the more water will be retained

But things get more complicated past this.... as the amount of media surface area is directly related to the amount surface evaporation..... thus in the time of most need for water, a wide flat pot will evaporate the most water....

( A slight birdwalk - it also appears from my observations that water retention in media can be boosted [besides other attributes] by the addition of biochar)

- Curious. Wondering what the justification would be for use of 100% Akadama..... seems a delicate trade off for increased ramification...?

cheers
DSD sends
 
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The aforementioned tree. Partly submerged in its tub of water. Growth was excellent this year.
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Soil has stayed wet for most of the season.
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Roots grew through the basket into water. See those healthy roots?
A few times the water level dried up and some roots died. Those are visible too.
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Bottom of the basket.
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I have measured and graded in the 10s of thousands of red alders in forests throughout Washington state. Without a doubt, the strongest and largest trees are usually growing adjacent to water, in wetlands, or in places that flood. That was the basis for growing the tree this way.
 
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I have collected approximately 140 red alders in Oregon, most of them going to my growing mentor who sells them and spends a lot of time developing them, streaming live video on how to work with them etc.

Red alder reduces easily under ramification, defolation, and the typical bonsai horticultural setup (i.e. root volume constriction).

FWIW, YMMV, my two cents, flame suit on, etc, but: There is no good reason to immerse this species in water, and many reasons not to. Plant it in 100% akadama and top dress with moss and treat like a normal bonsai. The shallower the composition the better the water retention. Put under shade cloth in the summer.

Side note, you have at least 7 thuja seedlings growing in that flat!
Link?
 
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