No, I'm older than Vance. Just not as ornery!
Really new to bonsai. Any suggestions for trees to buy?
- Thread starter Nightfury413
- Start date
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
No
Nada
Never
Did I say "no"?
It wont get used to it. It is a tree, it needs sunshine and fresh air.
Here is a suggestion. Get 7 cheap junipers. One at a time, rotate them:bring one inside for ONE DAY only then back outside for the other 6, bring a second one inside for one day and back outside, etc etc.
That is the only way you will be able to have "a" bonsai inside all the time.
Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
Nightfury413
Sapling
First of all, to answer JoeR's question, my dad likes what I started, but he probably won't build a bench for plants or install a special hose for me. Maybe buy me a tree for some celebration. He's at work all day, so he has no time anyway. My mom is "meh." I'm pretty much on my own. That's why I'm only going one tree at a time, at least for now. I'm finally starting to think of this as more an activity or hobby than the decoration I thought it was in the beginning. My backyard is pretty big, and I have space.
A few questions. When you repot a plant, how much bigger does the new pot have to be? Also, everywhere on the internet, it says to fertilize the plant once every two weeks. But the guy at the nursery said I only had to do it about once a month to once every other month. So how often do I fertilize? And what is the maximum thickness for a branch to be trained?
Thanks
A few questions. When you repot a plant, how much bigger does the new pot have to be? Also, everywhere on the internet, it says to fertilize the plant once every two weeks. But the guy at the nursery said I only had to do it about once a month to once every other month. So how often do I fertilize? And what is the maximum thickness for a branch to be trained?
Thanks
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Nightfury413
Sapling
Here are some pictures. This is not where I'm keeping it, I only put it here to take pictures.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I know they didn't sell our boy a failed air layer.!
NF. That trunk pic looks odd, like a failed airlayer.
Other than that, which you can fix if you want, it looks healthy.
I like that you realized this is an active hobby. Not just displaying things. Keep reading feller! There's a lot to it.
Lucky you! We're all here to help!
When you repot, next spring, you can trim some roots and put it back in that pot, or a colander.
Read up on colanders here.
If it's healthy next year, you can really work the roots out hard and nice, and leaving it a colander while training, you won't have to worry about repotting for a while.
This tree could Probly use a wider, more shallow pot if you use a bonsai pot.
Stick with it young man!
Sorce
NF. That trunk pic looks odd, like a failed airlayer.
Other than that, which you can fix if you want, it looks healthy.
I like that you realized this is an active hobby. Not just displaying things. Keep reading feller! There's a lot to it.
Lucky you! We're all here to help!
When you repot, next spring, you can trim some roots and put it back in that pot, or a colander.
Read up on colanders here.
If it's healthy next year, you can really work the roots out hard and nice, and leaving it a colander while training, you won't have to worry about repotting for a while.
This tree could Probly use a wider, more shallow pot if you use a bonsai pot.
Stick with it young man!
Sorce
DougB
Chumono
Nightvury413
As for a mentor here is a link to the Chico Bonsai Society LINK. They have some great event/show and people. AND student membership is only $15. Hang in there and good luck
(ps: find ways to be successful, not reasons why you can't. As my father taught me many years ago: Can't never did nothing!.:
Great it is important to know that you live in or near Chico, CA and that you are not yet 16. As others have said it is a wonderful jouney in this art/horticulture hobby.
As for a mentor here is a link to the Chico Bonsai Society LINK. They have some great event/show and people. AND student membership is only $15. Hang in there and good luck
(ps: find ways to be successful, not reasons why you can't. As my father taught me many years ago: Can't never did nothing!.:
discusmike
Omono
Best of luck with your elm,read the forums n any info you can find,n most of all enjoy doing it.
Nightfury413
Sapling
Sorce,
you said that my tree looks like a failed airlayer. And you said that I can fix it. How?
And Doug,
Did you mean Chino? Because I just learned that Chico is a city that's an 8 hour drive from my house. Mistake maybe? Thanks anyway.
General questions
How old do you think my tree is?
Should I repot it next spring or the following spring?
Oh, and I put it outside. Should I take it out at noon or before? It gets to low 90's here during the day.
How do I make the trunk thicker?
The pot I have right now is a 6" dark blue glazed oval. Should I put in another 6" pot, rectangle maybe, when I repot it? Or maybe an 8"?
you said that my tree looks like a failed airlayer. And you said that I can fix it. How?
And Doug,
Did you mean Chino? Because I just learned that Chico is a city that's an 8 hour drive from my house. Mistake maybe? Thanks anyway.
General questions
How old do you think my tree is?
Should I repot it next spring or the following spring?
Oh, and I put it outside. Should I take it out at noon or before? It gets to low 90's here during the day.
How do I make the trunk thicker?
The pot I have right now is a 6" dark blue glazed oval. Should I put in another 6" pot, rectangle maybe, when I repot it? Or maybe an 8"?
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Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
Just saw the double post....not sure how the hell that happened....sorry
erb.75
Chumono
General questions
How old do you think my tree is? hmmmm 5 years? It really depends on how it was grown (seed, cutting (and how big the cutting was, air layer)
Should I repot it next spring or the following spring? wait until next spring, when the buds swell up BEFORE they open up
Oh, and I put it outside (yay! elm lovers everywhere rejoice!). Should I take it out at noon or before? (leave it outside) It gets to low 90's here during the day. (the elm says 'child please', only 90?
How do I make the trunk thicker? plant in a big container (the ground is the biggest container I know of). although you can definitely make a nice bonsai with the trunk that you currently possess. It takes several years to thicken trunks, and all depends on how big you want 'em, how long you wait, and what container it's in, and how well it's doing
The pot I have right now is a 6" dark blue glazed oval. Should I put in another 6" pot, rectangle maybe, when I repot it? Or maybe an 8"?
pot/bonsai pairing is a totally different subject. for now, I'd focus on enjoying the tree and keeping it growing strong. A lot of people like deciduous trees in glazed pots, and rounder more than squarer pots. As for the size, you need one that allows enough space for your tree to do well. A smaller pot will make the tree grow slower, which isn't a bad thing if you already have the trunk you want and aren't concerned about growing things like new branches
How old do you think my tree is? hmmmm 5 years? It really depends on how it was grown (seed, cutting (and how big the cutting was, air layer)
Should I repot it next spring or the following spring? wait until next spring, when the buds swell up BEFORE they open up
Oh, and I put it outside (yay! elm lovers everywhere rejoice!). Should I take it out at noon or before? (leave it outside) It gets to low 90's here during the day. (the elm says 'child please', only 90?
How do I make the trunk thicker? plant in a big container (the ground is the biggest container I know of). although you can definitely make a nice bonsai with the trunk that you currently possess. It takes several years to thicken trunks, and all depends on how big you want 'em, how long you wait, and what container it's in, and how well it's doing
The pot I have right now is a 6" dark blue glazed oval. Should I put in another 6" pot, rectangle maybe, when I repot it? Or maybe an 8"?
pot/bonsai pairing is a totally different subject. for now, I'd focus on enjoying the tree and keeping it growing strong. A lot of people like deciduous trees in glazed pots, and rounder more than squarer pots. As for the size, you need one that allows enough space for your tree to do well. A smaller pot will make the tree grow slower, which isn't a bad thing if you already have the trunk you want and aren't concerned about growing things like new branches
Nightfury413
Sapling
Thanks erb, you're a big help. I actually just saw this right now, and I already brought it inside just in case. I'll put it back outside.
Leave it outside.
You know how you like to sleep at night? Trees do too. Trees like weather. They like winds blowing thru the leaves. The warmth of the day. The cool of the night.
Since it's in a pot, it will require more water than if it were planted in the ground. So, water it once a day, at least.
If you want to bring it inside, occasionally, for special occasions, that would be ok. BUT, leave it outside 24/7/365.
You know how you like to sleep at night? Trees do too. Trees like weather. They like winds blowing thru the leaves. The warmth of the day. The cool of the night.
Since it's in a pot, it will require more water than if it were planted in the ground. So, water it once a day, at least.
If you want to bring it inside, occasionally, for special occasions, that would be ok. BUT, leave it outside 24/7/365.
erb.75
Chumono
well thanks...i consider myself a novice too. we all have more things to learn. I am at the point right now (after ~2 years of outdoor bonsai and ~7 years of growing indoor bonsai) that I feel confident that I can buy a nice tree and keep it alive, and now I am starting to learn how to make material go from stock material to something really nice.
they say it takes 3 years just to learn how to water in japan...this is funny because it's pretty much true...it's the hardest part of bonsai if you ask me and the reason more trees don't make it than any other
I stick a baboo skewer in the soil and leave it in there 24/7. It will turn a dark color, and that's ok. I lift the skewer up every day to check moisture levels (by feeling it with my hand). If you can see moisture on it, don't water. And when i say moisture, i mean you can see it be a little shiny from the water. The first time you stick it in there, you should water it, and take it right back out again. That's the look of the skewer when you shouldn't water. If you touch the bamboo and there isn't water that came off on your finger, probably time to water again.
It takes practice! I only know I'm doing a half decent job watering because my trees have stopped dying on my and are growing!
they say it takes 3 years just to learn how to water in japan...this is funny because it's pretty much true...it's the hardest part of bonsai if you ask me and the reason more trees don't make it than any other
I stick a baboo skewer in the soil and leave it in there 24/7. It will turn a dark color, and that's ok. I lift the skewer up every day to check moisture levels (by feeling it with my hand). If you can see moisture on it, don't water. And when i say moisture, i mean you can see it be a little shiny from the water. The first time you stick it in there, you should water it, and take it right back out again. That's the look of the skewer when you shouldn't water. If you touch the bamboo and there isn't water that came off on your finger, probably time to water again.
It takes practice! I only know I'm doing a half decent job watering because my trees have stopped dying on my and are growing!
Nightfury413
Sapling
I'll do that. I just saw the thread about when to water, and I saw the bamboo stick idea. Everywhere on the internet, the care guides make the biggest deal about lighting, and they don't say much about watering. And now I'm seeing that, according to you, watering is the hardest part of bonsai.
I've asked this before, but is it a good idea to have more than one tree as a beginner? And how long do I wait until I can start training it? For training, can I use aluminum 24 gauge (0.607 mm) florist wire? Or should I get thicker wire? As I said before, when you repot a plant, how much bigger should the new pot be? Also, everywhere on the internet, it says to fertilize the plant once every two weeks. But the guy at the nursery said I only had to do it about once a month to once every other month. So how often do I fertilize? There are three or four very thin branches, not even woody yet, with lots of leaves on them. They are sticking out very far from the main foliage, so should I prune them?
Either of these is the second tree I'm considering, if it's a good idea to get another.
http://www.easternleaf.com/Bonsai_Fujian_Tea_Bonsai_Tree_p/801610-03.htm
http://www.easternleaf.com/Bonsai_Fujian_Tea_Bonsai_Tree_p/803630-03.htm
I've asked this before, but is it a good idea to have more than one tree as a beginner? And how long do I wait until I can start training it? For training, can I use aluminum 24 gauge (0.607 mm) florist wire? Or should I get thicker wire? As I said before, when you repot a plant, how much bigger should the new pot be? Also, everywhere on the internet, it says to fertilize the plant once every two weeks. But the guy at the nursery said I only had to do it about once a month to once every other month. So how often do I fertilize? There are three or four very thin branches, not even woody yet, with lots of leaves on them. They are sticking out very far from the main foliage, so should I prune them?
Either of these is the second tree I'm considering, if it's a good idea to get another.
http://www.easternleaf.com/Bonsai_Fujian_Tea_Bonsai_Tree_p/801610-03.htm
http://www.easternleaf.com/Bonsai_Fujian_Tea_Bonsai_Tree_p/803630-03.htm
JoeR
Masterpiece
Yes you can buy more trees. Not anything great but just more material to learn from.
For wire, copper is used in a gauge that is 1/3 of the branch, with aluminum being slightly thicker. I dont know what florist wire is but that is very thin wire. The smallest wire I own is 22 and I very rarely use it.
When you repot, you can do one of two things. 1) Trim some roots and put it back in the same pot its in now. 2) Put it in the ground or a colander to grow out.
It depends on what fertilizer you have. You have to read the package because all have a different NPK amount. What does the package say?
For instance, I have a chemical 18-18-21 I use for all my trees. I do it once weekly at a slightly higher dose... Aka the Walter Paul method.
DougB
Chumono
erb.75
Chumono
I've asked this before, but is it a good idea to have more than one tree as a beginner? yes. i'd recommend it
And how long do I wait until I can start training it? you can start right away, but often it's best to give a tree two weeks after it changes location before stressing it out with training
For training, can I use aluminum 24 gauge (0.607 mm) florist wire? not sure...never tried it or have seen it
Or should I get thicker wire? too thin, and the wire cuts into the bark...thicker wire is better in this respect. it also has more holding power. on the other hand, thicker wire is harder to work with because it's more resistant to bending (which is why it's useful for bending heavy branches). thicker wire can detract from the image of the tree...although this last point a lot of people (including myself) don't care about, as long as it gets the job done!
As I said before, when you repot a plant, how much bigger should the new pot be? when i repot my finished ficus, i stick it right back in the exact same pot. one of my maples on the other hand, went into a pot 5x it's original size because i'm trying to get a larger trunk diameter and more branches to work with/more vigor
Also, everywhere on the internet, it says to fertilize the plant once every two weeks. But the guy at the nursery said I only had to do it about once a month to once every other month. So how often do I fertilize? i try to do it at least 1/month in the warm months of the year, and will do it up to every 2 weeks
There are three or four very thin branches, not even woody yet, with lots of leaves on them. They are sticking out very far from the main foliage, so should I prune them? depends on how you want to style the tree. you can use them as "sacrifice branches" if you want everything below them (trunk) to thicken, and then cut them off once the trunk is thick enough. or you can trim them back to 1-2 leaves, or you can get rid of them all together because they are in a bad spot. lots of options. it's what makes styling difficult with raw material because you probably don't know yet what stuff to keep/get rid of. The best way to learn is to look at trees you like, and figure out how they got to look like that.
search for "bonsai progression" and you will see trees going from raw stock to finished trees and you'll learn how they got that way. that will help you make decisions
And how long do I wait until I can start training it? you can start right away, but often it's best to give a tree two weeks after it changes location before stressing it out with training
For training, can I use aluminum 24 gauge (0.607 mm) florist wire? not sure...never tried it or have seen it
Or should I get thicker wire? too thin, and the wire cuts into the bark...thicker wire is better in this respect. it also has more holding power. on the other hand, thicker wire is harder to work with because it's more resistant to bending (which is why it's useful for bending heavy branches). thicker wire can detract from the image of the tree...although this last point a lot of people (including myself) don't care about, as long as it gets the job done!
As I said before, when you repot a plant, how much bigger should the new pot be? when i repot my finished ficus, i stick it right back in the exact same pot. one of my maples on the other hand, went into a pot 5x it's original size because i'm trying to get a larger trunk diameter and more branches to work with/more vigor
Also, everywhere on the internet, it says to fertilize the plant once every two weeks. But the guy at the nursery said I only had to do it about once a month to once every other month. So how often do I fertilize? i try to do it at least 1/month in the warm months of the year, and will do it up to every 2 weeks
There are three or four very thin branches, not even woody yet, with lots of leaves on them. They are sticking out very far from the main foliage, so should I prune them? depends on how you want to style the tree. you can use them as "sacrifice branches" if you want everything below them (trunk) to thicken, and then cut them off once the trunk is thick enough. or you can trim them back to 1-2 leaves, or you can get rid of them all together because they are in a bad spot. lots of options. it's what makes styling difficult with raw material because you probably don't know yet what stuff to keep/get rid of. The best way to learn is to look at trees you like, and figure out how they got to look like that.
search for "bonsai progression" and you will see trees going from raw stock to finished trees and you'll learn how they got that way. that will help you make decisions
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
I fertilize every week. Sometimes twice a week.
Nightfury413
Sapling
Thanks guys
I think my dad has thicker wire that I can use. For the style, I would like to achieve an informal broom form. I think it looks the nicest and probably the easiest. If I do plant it in a colander, can it be metal? You also said that getting more than one tree is worth it. Some second trees I'm considering:
Harland boxwood
Fukien tea tree
Chinese Privet
Ficus of some sort
Hawaiian Umbrella
Any kind of maple
I think my dad has thicker wire that I can use. For the style, I would like to achieve an informal broom form. I think it looks the nicest and probably the easiest. If I do plant it in a colander, can it be metal? You also said that getting more than one tree is worth it. Some second trees I'm considering:
Harland boxwood
Fukien tea tree
Chinese Privet
Ficus of some sort
Hawaiian Umbrella
Any kind of maple
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