Question about Ground Growing

[Manmountain526]

I am contemplating placing a couple of my Japanese maples in colanders or something similar this spring and placing them in the ground for a bit. I have limited space in which to do so in my backyard. I would have to make a small area to plant the trees and make a bed of some sort to keep the dogs out of it. How far apart do I need to plant the trees for them to do their thing?

Also placing them in colanders and then burying them in topsoil is the way to go correct?

 

[Potawatomi13]

"Also placing them in colanders and then burying them in topsoil is the way to go correct?"

NO! Purpose of putting in ground is let roots feel free to grow so top grows big/trunk gets bigger fast. Maples dig every year or two and cut roots then replant. How big you want tree? Three feet apart in well draining semi organic soil should do well.

 

[Tieball]

Just put them in the ground. No colander is needed. Cut off the tap root. Let those roots grow freely.

My experience is with ground growing American Elm and Hackberry (Celtis Sinensis). What I experienced. The first year is so-so growth as the tree is acclimated to the growing conditions. The second year is moderate growth. The third year is accelerated growth. I have a sand-based soil...like beach sand. I add Turface and some aged pine bark to my soil to help hold some moisture while letting the earth take good care of drainage. I understand this soil additive is considered by some to be unnecessary...however...others that say this do not likely have beach sand below them like I do. And, this has worked very well for me and the trees.

I plant all my trees on tiles. Standard 18” x 18” floor tiles. I get reject colors, chipped corner tiles and odd-lot leftovers no one wants that are on sale at the Home Depot. You might consider tiles. Helps keep your roots horizontal. Remove the tap root before planting. And....when I place the tile in the ground I pound in small stakes that stick out above ground so I know exactly where the tile corners are located. Once covered with solid the corner orientation can get tricky.

I wouldn’t dig out and root prune to soon. Let some growth happen. One of the expectations of ground growing is just let the tree grow. Chopping roots to soon or to frequently will slow down your trunk thickening. Examine your growth results. My ground growth trees receive a shovel dig around them every third year. By shovel dig I mean digging down to severe some roots...but not all. I dig....skip a shovel width...then dig again until around the tree. I suppose a good visual description would be a circular dotted line. I dig just outside the tile width.

Your fencing is a good idea. I don’t have dogs....but do have plenty of rabbits, turkeys, deer and other critters to keep out. I use a 1/2” mesh fencing screen from Home Depot or Lowes.

You’re Virginia so may not have extremely frigid winters. If desired....always helpful really...wrap burlap, plastic mesh fencing, or other shielding right around your fence during the winter. Significantly reduces the winds but with it open on top it captures any snowfall to keep dormancy. The shielding also helps keep the tree shaded in winter in case the low sun is out to much. This first time I shield-wrapped I used a soil erosion fencing from Lowes...black in color...about 24”-36” height (construction sites use this to stop soil erosion when grading). Works.

Okay...I know...way more that you asked...just thought I’d share my process.

 

[Manmountain526]

Thank you, both for the information. @Tieball I am never one to complain about too much info. I would rather have that than be left with questions later. Thank you! I will tackle this project in the spring. The maples I am looking at placing in the ground are in simple bowl type pots right now. Once it is safe to plant come spring I will utilize the advice. Thanks again!

 

[Tieball]

Ask away if I glossed over my process to much. You’ll hear from others also...you’ll have many viewpoints....then just pick and choose what you feel works best for you. And then do the work. I enjoy the ground growing component. I think you will also. There are good resources available in several places regarding ground growing.

Http://www.evergreengardenworks.com has some good reading. Look under Articles/Trunks, developing

Http://www.Bonsaitree.co.za
is another excellent source of good reading. Scan through the Blog for subjects.

There’s more websites I know....these just came to mind quickly.

 

[Anthony]

Well @Manmountain526 .

From the other side of the opinion.

here is an image of the colander in the ground in use.
Save our - ground - is a 10' x 2' x 12 inch wide , concrete block shape
and the tree is a hackberry originally from Lafayette, La.

Down here the shape is called a plant trough.

Time to trunk size wanted, under a year. [ 3" trunk ]

The colander is a safety net. When dug back out, the colander encourages
fine feeder root growth, and thick roots can be removed safely.

Tiles can also be added into the colander use if needed.
Good Day
Anthony

Just dug up - in colander



Tree set for over sized pot refinement of branchlets.
With thick roots cut and finer roots taking over.



Here is what the plant trough looks like, has a concrete base with pipes for drainage at the back.
Test subject J.B.pine in colander.

 

[Manmountain526]

Well @Manmountain526 .

From the other side of the opinion.

here is an image of the colander in the ground in use.
Save our - ground - is a 10' x 2' x 12 inch wide , concrete block shape
and the tree is a hackberry originally from Lafayette, La.

Down here the shape is called a plant trough.

Time to trunk size wanted, under a year. [ 3" trunk ]

The colander is a safety net. When dug back out, the colander encourages
fine feeder root growth, and thick roots can be removed safely.

Tiles can also be added into the colander use if needed.
Good Day
Anthony

Just dug up - in colander

View attachment 174446

Tree set for over sized pot refinement of branchlets.
With thick roots cut and finer roots taking over.

View attachment 174447

Here is what the plant trough looks like, has a concrete base with pipes for drainage at the back.
Test subject J.B.pine in colander.

View attachment 174448

That is a very interesting setup. So the trough simulates the ground. This may be something to consider as well.

 

[Anthony]

Soil inside is what we call -----top soil ---- made up of sand, clay, rock and compost.
With added 8 mm silica based sand, drains well and retains moisture.
The house was built in the late fifties and the previous owner filled it with top soil.

The drainage was enhanced for Bonsai.
Before it was a Heaven for tuberoses and gerberas.

Don't be afraid to experiment.

Remember NATIVE plants often do better than imports.

Do be afraid to expand ideas ------- colander enhances fine feeder roots,
The double colander enhances the coarse surface roots [ see Bonsai Today ]
Especially useful for J,B,pines.
Good Day
Anthony