Progressive Maple Challenge - Japanese maple #18

Fonz

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So... Would you mind air layering a branch next year and send it to Belgium? :)

Just kidding. Awesome tree. Keep up the great work!
 

Walter Pall

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Finally almost without wire. By carefully touching it iIfoud that the graft probably has taken. 'The bridge has to sray on until it is definitely clear. This will be when the branch after the graft will be thicker than the bridge. We'll see.


2018-02-TSA_1631w.jpg2018-02-TSA_1632ofw.jpg
 

Giga

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Finally almost without wire. By carefully touching it iIfoud that the graft probably has taken. 'The bridge has to sray on until it is definitely clear. This will be when the branch after the graft will be thicker than the bridge. We'll see.


View attachment 177802View attachment 177804

Great combo, must be great in person
 

Wilson

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The overwhelming number of trees is repotted too early. Now, when then foliage is just out is is late, but not too late. This is better than too early. I do this every year. You should not think that I am an idiot who cannot wait a few months and kills a ten grand tree. I have done this hundreds of times.
Do you recommend repotting deciduous just after buds are breaking, but aren't leafed out completely? Or before bud break? It seems like the common theme for people is just before bud break.
Thanks!
 

LanceMac10

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After buds break in sping and in full leave in late August in my area. Much later than most think and in summer much earlier.




I like the first part, but the second? That's prime pool/craft beer time!!:D:D:D
My climate may be a bit warmer than your location, I might try a few repots at that time. We have a strong second half of the growing season. Most of my material is obviously in development, so I tend to try and take advantage of a long stretch of un-interrupted growth.

Great Arwakara!!! :cool:
 

River's Edge

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This Arakawa and others will be repotted late August. My climate is 6a. The trick is that growth is almost not interrupted that way.
Am i correct in deducting that you are benefitting from the late summer, fall growth period for callus formation and root recovery to start fresh in the spring. Thus reaping the benefit of basically uninterrupted season of growth each year. And would you reccomend this approach for more mature trees rather than those younger ones where you are trying to build the trunk?
 

Walter Pall

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I do this with all kinds of maples. You shoukld not think that I am a fool rtisiking trees wihich are worth more than 10 grand each.
 

River's Edge

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Am i correct in deducting that you are benefitting from the late summer, fall growth period for callus formation and root recovery to start fresh in the spring. Thus reaping the benefit of basically uninterrupted season of growth each year. And would you reccomend this approach for more mature trees rather than those younger ones where you are trying to build the trunk?
Actually, i thought your reasoning was very sound, not sure why the question offended you. I thought it might make a difference to younger trees due to the faster build up of trunk growth towards the end of the season. And i was hoping you would comment on that aspect.
 

Walter Pall

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I was not offended and did not mean you as a person. There are some lunatics on the net who follow me everywhere and make it understood that I am a fool and are questioning my methods always.. You are not one of those, I know. Some are on this forum.

Methods can only be judged by long term results. it does not matter what you have learned, what some great guru says, what some people think, what is done in Japan. The only thing that matters is whether in the long run some method shows better results than what folks areused to do. Those in doubt -take a look at my gallery.
 
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