Problem child Japanese Black Pine

nover18

Mame
Messages
102
Reaction score
19
Location
SE Pennsylvania
USDA Zone
6b
I have been working with this black pine for some time. Unfortunately, I have been finding getting it to cooperate have been more difficult than I anticipated. Any recommendations for making this workable material? I wish there were more buds closer to the interior but have kind of just let it go to get a thicker trunk. I wish the last picture were a bit more clear but was hoping to use this smaller bud to develop the next portion of the trunk. There are also two or three smaller buds on the interior that i'm hoping may be used in part of the design in the future. Most of the other branches have just been left to grow out as sacrifice branches.
It was repotted this spring into the box it's in now. It was in a 5 gallon pot before that. The mix it's currently in is a mix of pumice and akadama. I've been fertilizing pretty heavily this year after the repot and was not sure that it would recover.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1042.jpg
    IMG_1042.jpg
    205 KB · Views: 82
  • IMG_1040.jpg
    IMG_1040.jpg
    202.6 KB · Views: 79
  • IMG_1041.jpg
    IMG_1041.jpg
    199.1 KB · Views: 73
  • IMG_1043.jpg
    IMG_1043.jpg
    212 KB · Views: 73
  • IMG_1044.jpg
    IMG_1044.jpg
    191.9 KB · Views: 69
It looks to me like you have a nice trunk and some fine inner buds to work with. If it were mine I would start removing the sacrifice branches slowly over the next couple of years. I would rub off all of the buds on the long branches in the early spring in order to focus more energy on those inner buds.
 
It looks to me like you have a nice trunk and some fine inner buds to work with. If it were mine I would start removing the sacrifice branches slowly over the next couple of years.

Problem is, your final branches have to be in place while you're growing out the sacrifices. Read BVFs blog on this:

http://nebaribonsai.wordpress.com/2013/03/02/sacrifice-branches-black-pine/

There is a second part to the article - read that too. And then read the article by Brent Watson referenced in the article.

Scott
Agreeing with the first two posts above, I would also suggest reading up on approach grafting, as this is probably the best way going forward to improve this piece of stock.
 
It does look a little leggy. Has it been in full sun?
I also like that same new direction for the leader. I saw that line in the first pick with the tiny branch to the upper left. I think it's a good line.
If it were full sun and growing strong you could probably get the branches you need at the base of the new leader.
Ian
 
Agreeing with the first two posts above, I would also suggest reading up on approach grafting, as this is probably the best way going forward to improve this piece of stock.

Yes, i was considering an attempt at approach grafting. I am pretty familiar with Brian and Brent's sites. I read them constantly. Unfortunately, I've never approach grafted before. Anyone have a site or literature that they recommend? I'd like to take a crack at it. Is there a time that you'd recommend is better for approach grafting than another; spring, fall? Also, suggestions for trying to preserve these inner buds that are weak? I also was unsure on mow much of the top growth to remove. I'd like to remove/rebalance energy to the interior while still allowing the sacrifices to do some thickening. I think there is potential there for final branches on the interior. I just don't want to lose them.
 
It does look a little leggy. Has it been in full sun?
I also like that same new direction for the leader. I saw that line in the first pick with the tiny branch to the upper left. I think it's a good line.
If it were full sun and growing strong you could probably get the branches you need at the base of the new leader.
Ian

Yes, full sun almost all day. It got real leggy after the repot. I was hoping the interior needles would survive but they yellowed and fell off after repot this year. Not sure if they were just old or stressed from repot.
 
So, how big so you want this pine to be as a finished tree? It has good movement, so it could be a smaller tree, or you could grow it out. Let's determine that first, then we can plot a course of action. Regardless, keep those small shoots in good sun and healthy, they'll be very useful next year either way.

Approach grafting can be done at any time, but your vision for this tree will dictate where and how the approach grafts are applied. Here is a post on approach grafting black pine.
 
So, how big so you want this pine to be as a finished tree? It has good movement, so it could be a smaller tree, or you could grow it out. Let's determine that first, then we can plot a course of action. Regardless, keep those small shoots in good sun and healthy, they'll be very useful next year either way.

Approach grafting can be done at any time, but your vision for this tree will dictate where and how the approach grafts are applied. Here is a post on approach grafting black pine.

I'm envisioning a tree around 18" tall. Right now the base of the trunk is ~2" wide but I'd like to continue to build on that if possible while at the same time creating a bit more movement in the second part of the trunk.
I read your post on approach grafting. Did you only remove the cambium on the part of the tree accepting the graft or did you remove some on the donor as well?
 
Back
Top Bottom