Prior to digging for collecting

[bray]

A couple of Hop Hornbeams I'm planning to dig in the future. What time of year would be best to shovel around the outside of the rootball to encourage roots closer to the trunk? Spring before new growth, fall when roots are collecting strength, or any time? Got any suggestions?
I see it mentioned in other treads but never too much about when to do it in the growth cycle.

 

[BrianBay9]

Most folks that dig deciduous trees just do the root chop at the time of collection. I'm not sure you'll get much benefit from the extra work.

 

[dancing with butterflies]

Make sure you know how rare the species is you are trying to collect whether or not it's in a protected area. And if it will even live in your care. I have a blue beech in our zone 4 yard and they are rare trees in mn

 

[dancing with butterflies]

Cryptopidium orchids is a good example in my area once they were as common as dandelions and people dug them up for 25 cents a plant



Now they are gone in our area

 

[dancing with butterflies]

A better idea I think is to get seed I have seed from our beech if you want pm me if interested

 

[bray]

Most folks that dig deciduous trees just do the root chop at the time of collection. I'm not sure you'll get much benefit from the extra work.

Yes, I've collected quite a few trees pretty successfully without the "extra work" so I may just skip it. Just wondered if it would head start the roots close to the trunk since I'm not planning to collect anytime soon.
Thanks

 

[River's Edge]

A couple of Hop Hornbeams I'm planning to dig in the future. What time of year would be best to shovel around the outside of the rootball to encourage roots closer to the trunk? Spring before new growth, fall when roots are collecting strength, or any time? Got any suggestions?
I see it mentioned in other treads but never too much about when to do it in the growth cycle.

The best time for this approach is early in the growing season. The benefit is creating additional feeder roots prior to collection and less reliance on the roots that will be severed on collection. Very worthwhile in specific situations. Older material that may be trickier to extract and is not in the very best of condition. Other steps can include some extra care prior to collection with additional fertilization or treatment prior to collection.
This approach is generally reserved for larger and older material the is considered " special in potential quality"

 

[Shibui]

One of the misunderstandings about digging around the root ball before collecting is that more than 90% of new roots will grow directly from the cut ends. There may be some new root growth back along the roots but that's usually very minor. When we spade the roots we rarely get close enough to the trunk so all the new roots that have developed end up being cut off -again- when the tree is dig and potted. Personally. I just skip the extra step and work because I know that most deciduous have no problems with root reduction at collection.
If I find a situation where root cutting prior to collection is necessary I'm very conscious of getting really close to the trunk to make it worth while.

 

[johng]

I do it in the fall. If possible I prefer the results that a saw gives as opposed to a shovel. My root assassin shovel and my sharpened trencher often crush roots as opposed to cleanly cutting them. It’s typically not necessary with deciduous material but seems to be much more important with conifers.

 

[Cajunrider]

The best time for this approach is early in the growing season. The benefit is creating additional feeder roots prior to collection and less reliance on the roots that will be severed on collection. Very worthwhile in specific situations. Older material that may be trickier to extract and is not in the very best of condition. Other steps can include some extra care prior to collection with additional fertilization or treatment prior to collection.
This approach is generally reserved for larger and older material the is considered " special in potential quality"

Totally agree. For normal tree collection, I will skip this step. I often find the location of the tree, while it may be good for normal growth, is not good for the tree with chopped roots. If I approach a bald cypress that grows relatively well in full sun and cut a circle that is tight enough around the tree so the developing roots can be used, that tree will struggle mightily to supply water to the foliage. I would be better off to collect the tree right away, prune off the branches, and put the tree in the shade for it to recover and grow new roots and foliage.
However, if I see a tree that has roots that go far away from the tree, running deep through fissures, I might partially dig around the base and fill with good soil to stimulate root growth near the base before I come back later and sever the deep roots.

 

[bray]

more than 90% of new roots will grow directly from the cut ends

Good point and I probably wouldn't have cut the roots close enough to the trunk for it to have had any benefit.

The best time for this approach is early in the growing season

I'll keep that in mind if I ever find something that needs the extra care you mentioned.

Thanks everyone for the discussion you have been helpful.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

I use a battery powered reciprocating saw with a 12” long blade. It will chew through soil and roots but the blade will only last for about one plant due to the dulling effect of sand, gravel, and rocks.

 

[Cajunrider]

I use a battery powered reciprocating saw with a 12” long blade. It will chew through soil and roots but the blade will only last for about one plant due to the dulling effect of sand, gravel, and rocks.

The new carbide teeth will last longer.