CasAH
Chumono
I was thinking it would look good with a very pale robin’s egg blue, or a pale green close to robin’s egg blue. Do not know what to call the green maybe a pale milky jade green, or pale creme de mint?
Picked up a lovely shade quince today...
- Thread starter Cadillactaste
- Start date
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Like minds...yes, that is where I think I am going as well. A pale glaze simple cascade pot. Simplicity is the key I think.
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Yeah, I think the same. super sweet that would be to find.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Wow...
How similar!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/potteryheads/permalink/10155472366927201/
Nice!
Sorce
How similar!
https://www.facebook.com/groups/potteryheads/permalink/10155472366927201/
Nice!
Sorce
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
I need some advice...I treated with fungicide...the upper section of this cascade...has shriveling of branches. Lower section is fine. Leaves compromised...what the heck!?!
Pondering...do I sever that upper trunk so not to destroy the lower half? Or what... One recently posted here of a maple doing this...mentioned an issue of watering. But...lower half of mine is fine. I am at a loss...thought, maybe ai had the window open...and upper half got cold wind...but nothing else in greenhouse has this going on.
@Bonsai Nut @Adair M ...anyone?
Pondering...do I sever that upper trunk so not to destroy the lower half? Or what... One recently posted here of a maple doing this...mentioned an issue of watering. But...lower half of mine is fine. I am at a loss...thought, maybe ai had the window open...and upper half got cold wind...but nothing else in greenhouse has this going on.
@Bonsai Nut @Adair M ...anyone?
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Photo?
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Cut off all the wire on the upper part. Don't unwind it - cut it.
It appears to be physical damage - either to the vascular tissue or to the roots that support that part of the plant. The top isn't getting any water.
Quince can be picky about wiring. I always thought that it was me but perhaps other people have the same issues. The bark bruises easily and I have lost branches when I didn't think I wired too tightly.
It appears to be physical damage - either to the vascular tissue or to the roots that support that part of the plant. The top isn't getting any water.
Quince can be picky about wiring. I always thought that it was me but perhaps other people have the same issues. The bark bruises easily and I have lost branches when I didn't think I wired too tightly.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Okay...but honestly...I think that was last year's wire. I wired more below on the lower half. But I will try anything. Will remove tomorrow. Maybe the branch grew and its choking it out... ?
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Removed the wire so I could rest better. Some was biting in...but not enough to leave imbedded wire scars.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
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I really don't know what is going on Darlene, but I have had this sort of thing happen to me. Never found a cure.
If you are lucky, only the currently shriveled top will die, and the bottom will be fine. The bottom will ''seal off'' the top, and in a few weeks the top will be dry & brittle enough to just snap off. Use your diagonal cutters, and chop of the top, look at the stump, if the wood is discolored, cut lower. Cut to clean uniform wood, or normal wood for wood that naturally has a darker core. If the cause was mechanical damage as BNut suggested, the wood will be ''normal colored''. This is best case scenario.
IMPORTANT - clean your tools after cutting a diseased or suspected diseased tree. A wipe down with 70% or 90% rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) will effectively kill most bacteria, molds, fungi and to some extent virus. 70% works as well as 90%, less than 70% does not work as well. Ethanol, Methanol, or Isopropanol (Isopropyl alcohol) will all work for this use. Denatured ethanol is fine also. 190 proof white lightning will also work, but why waste it, drink it instead. I'm joking of course, you should not try to drink 190 proof ethanol, always water down to around 80 to 90 proof. Key is to clean tools. As a routine matter, if one were really conscientious, clean tools between trees, every time you move to a different tree, all tools used get a wipe down. There are other cleaning solutions, a few work better than alcohol, many don't work as well as alcohol. When I find the reference I am thinking of I'll post the list.
Back to what is wrong.
More likely, it is one of the catastrophic water molds, like Pythium, Phytophthora, Erwinia, or any of a dozen other plagues. In which case the symptoms will spread through the rest of the tree. These are extremely difficult to cure, I've never been successful. Purple discoloration is typical of Phytophthora, I believe Erwinia can be diagnosed by foul smell, at some point they all cause generally similar damage. They are traveling through the Cambium, just under the bark and the shrivelled look is the collapse of the cambium tissue as it is being digested by the pathogen. The discoloration of the wood when cut in cross section can also be a ring of purple, the purple or brown being where the normally green cambium should be. If the shriveled areas ooze sap when you touch it, what ever you do wash your hands before touching a healthy, unaffected tree. That sap will be loaded with spores (or the asexual reproductive structures that are a different name than spores, but I forgot the name).
If this is the case, the best you can do is prevent the spread to other trees. Move this tree so that no water from it splashes onto any neighboring tree, and no water dripping from it can drip down onto another tree. Without a definative identification, it is not advisable to go wild spraying different fungicides, because you don't know if it is a fungus or a bacteria, what kills one, will not kill the other. So just removing the diseased plant to a position away from the clean plants should be enough. Especially since this seems to be the only one affected.
Quince, flowering quince and chinese quince will get one of the ''cedar - apple type rusts'',, there are at least 2 different rust fungi that can use quince as the alternate host with juniper being the other host. The spores move around in early spring, that could be what got the top. It will form gummy oozing blobs of resin as soon as weather warms up a bit. These blobs of resin are loaded with spores and rain splash, or birds or other creatures by contacting the blobs of resin, will spread spores to neighboring junipers. This one will kill the whole branch it infected, but often the tree's own resistance will stop it from spreading lower. Observe what happens, that will help with the diagnosis.
If you are lucky, only the currently shriveled top will die, and the bottom will be fine. The bottom will ''seal off'' the top, and in a few weeks the top will be dry & brittle enough to just snap off. Use your diagonal cutters, and chop of the top, look at the stump, if the wood is discolored, cut lower. Cut to clean uniform wood, or normal wood for wood that naturally has a darker core. If the cause was mechanical damage as BNut suggested, the wood will be ''normal colored''. This is best case scenario.
IMPORTANT - clean your tools after cutting a diseased or suspected diseased tree. A wipe down with 70% or 90% rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) will effectively kill most bacteria, molds, fungi and to some extent virus. 70% works as well as 90%, less than 70% does not work as well. Ethanol, Methanol, or Isopropanol (Isopropyl alcohol) will all work for this use. Denatured ethanol is fine also. 190 proof white lightning will also work, but why waste it, drink it instead. I'm joking of course, you should not try to drink 190 proof ethanol, always water down to around 80 to 90 proof. Key is to clean tools. As a routine matter, if one were really conscientious, clean tools between trees, every time you move to a different tree, all tools used get a wipe down. There are other cleaning solutions, a few work better than alcohol, many don't work as well as alcohol. When I find the reference I am thinking of I'll post the list.
Back to what is wrong.
More likely, it is one of the catastrophic water molds, like Pythium, Phytophthora, Erwinia, or any of a dozen other plagues. In which case the symptoms will spread through the rest of the tree. These are extremely difficult to cure, I've never been successful. Purple discoloration is typical of Phytophthora, I believe Erwinia can be diagnosed by foul smell, at some point they all cause generally similar damage. They are traveling through the Cambium, just under the bark and the shrivelled look is the collapse of the cambium tissue as it is being digested by the pathogen. The discoloration of the wood when cut in cross section can also be a ring of purple, the purple or brown being where the normally green cambium should be. If the shriveled areas ooze sap when you touch it, what ever you do wash your hands before touching a healthy, unaffected tree. That sap will be loaded with spores (or the asexual reproductive structures that are a different name than spores, but I forgot the name).
If this is the case, the best you can do is prevent the spread to other trees. Move this tree so that no water from it splashes onto any neighboring tree, and no water dripping from it can drip down onto another tree. Without a definative identification, it is not advisable to go wild spraying different fungicides, because you don't know if it is a fungus or a bacteria, what kills one, will not kill the other. So just removing the diseased plant to a position away from the clean plants should be enough. Especially since this seems to be the only one affected.
Quince, flowering quince and chinese quince will get one of the ''cedar - apple type rusts'',, there are at least 2 different rust fungi that can use quince as the alternate host with juniper being the other host. The spores move around in early spring, that could be what got the top. It will form gummy oozing blobs of resin as soon as weather warms up a bit. These blobs of resin are loaded with spores and rain splash, or birds or other creatures by contacting the blobs of resin, will spread spores to neighboring junipers. This one will kill the whole branch it infected, but often the tree's own resistance will stop it from spreading lower. Observe what happens, that will help with the diagnosis.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
@Leo in N E Illinois ... well if the top just dies off...it will be ironic. Have been contemplating removal of that section. May...just pull it out of the greenhouse. Treated everything so hopefully the rest of my trees are okay. Will get some alcohol. I did spray my wire cutter down with lysol...
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Moved to an indoor window...than have this in my greenhouse. Just have the bougainvillea and my husband's tropical hibiscus in next room. Far less than my growing collection in the greenhouse. Really leaning toward pathogen...with removing only old wire on it last night.
namnhi
Masterpiece
I also have this happened on a couple Japanese quinces. Most of the big trunks just shrivel and died. I don't have any idea why. I afraid the branch in picture is a goner.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Thanks! It's a puzzle for sure...I am just trying to decide if it's worth keeping at all. Will the tree be carrying a pathogen to contaminate my collection? What did you do with yours? Remove the top...or toss the entire tree.
namnhi
Masterpiece
I just removed the dead trunks. The smaller ones seem ok as they put out new grows.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Tear off...or use cutters? Tearing off if I got all of it...could look like a cool scar effect.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Here's one for you...root girdling. Called the nursery I got the quince...she asked for photos...but said it sounds as if part of the tree was root girdled. Will let me know later once viewing the photos. Dang it...should have repotted this...this year.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
Not good...tore the branch off...the trunk was rotted in lower section. Not sure if from rot...or pathogens.
Cadillactaste
Neagari Gal
I have a feeling I need to buy systematic... ?
