Orchids - Paphiopedilum or Asian Slipper Orchids

Leo in N E Illinois

The Professor
Messages
11,477
Reaction score
23,796
Location
on the IL-WI border, a mile from ''da Lake''
USDA Zone
5b
I had one or two requests to do some articles on raising orchids, so I thought I'd start a series of threads on different orchid topics. Please post your own photos, experiences or questions, dialog is the goal. The first thread started by @MACH5 has a nice discussion about how to raise Phalaenopsis (Phals) the orchid most commonly sold in grocery stores and box stores. Check it out if you are just getting into orchids. http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/winter-blues-and-yellows-and-pinks.21575/

Paphiopedilum is my personal favorite group of orchids. I started collecting Paphs in 1975, and still have one or two of the plants I picked up back then. They are generally easy to grow, tolerate occasional episodes of neglect if neglect is not repeated too often. They generally require bright shade, are perfect for growing under shop lights. Most will start blooming while still in a 3 inch diameter pot, most will be full sized mature plants in a 1 quart size pot, I use 4 x 4 x 5 inch pots for the majority of my larger growing Paphs. The shape of the bloom is exotic, the labellum of the flower has become a pouch, and the colors are usually not overly gaudy. Colors tend to be greens, browns, some white, pinks, with splashes of red, or purple, sometimes yellow, and often with black spots, a few are wine purple-red.

These are a couple I've had blooming over the last year or two. In the next post I'll describe my culture.

Paphiopedilum Ho Chi Min (delenatii x vietnamense) both parents of this hybrid occur only in Viet Nam
it is in a pot from the Yi Xing kilns, China, the pot is roughly 5 inches diameter x 6 inches tall. Flowers are roughly 4 inches across, this is a fairly old, specimen size plant. Colors look muted on the cell phone pictures. Below is a flash picture, in life the colors are between the 2 photos. Lovely soft pink. No fragrance, although one parent, Paph delenatii can be fragrant. Pretty easy to grow. This is a good example of the subgroup of Paphs called the Parvisepalum. The various subgroups (subgenera) tend to share growth habits, and cultural requirements. The Parvi's for short, are a favorite group of mine.

HoChihMihn8-May17-2015c-better.jpg HoChihMihn8-May17-2015b.jpg

next is Paph Bel Royal (rothschildianum x kolopakingii) this one is a behemoth of a plant. Leaf span in the photo is roughly 48 inches from leaf tip to leaf tip. It is potted in a plastic 4 inch diameter x 6 inch tall tube I put holes into for drainage. This is a "first bloom seedling" only one growth. The plant is about 8 years from seed. This is an older photo, but it illustrates a "type", the multifloral Paph, where all flowers open at the same time. The subgroup is called Corypetalum or Anotopetalum, and includes the most spectacular of Paph orchids, Paph rothschildianum. Flower stem bends toward the camera, flowers are about 4 inches wide by 6 inches tall. In this group 3 to 7 blooms, opening simultaneously is normal. Colors are a tip off that in nature, the parent species are usually fly pollinated. Thankfully most do not use fragrance to attract the flies. Though the species kolopakingii does have a faint fragrance, like a diabetic goat pissed on it, sort of a urine and honey fragrance. There is a reason it is usually men who collect slipper orchids. Our noses don't work well.

Paph Bel Royal
BelRoyal677-july09b-small.jpg

BelRoyal677-july09d-small.jpg

More later, next post
 
culture:
Paphiopedilum - Paphs for short - generally are open understory and forest edge plants. The grow in moist, humid environments, in mosses on rocks, or epiphytic in heavy moss growing in treesl They are usually in areas above flood levels, areas with good drainage and not excessively wet. They resent drying out, but they don't like being saturated. There are Paphs for every temperature regime, as long as it is above freezing. Most do fine in intermediate temperatures, between 55 to 75 F at night and anything under 95 f during the day. Higher than 95 F daytime temps are tolerated for short periods if in shade and air movement is good. (breeze from a fan or outside).

Potting mix - I personally use a mix of fir bark (orchid bark) and perlite and horticultural charcoal roughly 4:1:1, though many different mixes can be made to work. 3 inch pots and smaller I use a fine grade, 1/4 inch nominal size, 4 inch pots and larger I use medium grade, 3/8 to 5/8 inch size. I flood the pots with water usually every 5 to 7 days, depending on how quick they dry out. Goal is to water them before they are bone dry, buy not keep them soggy wet. I have seen Paphs grown well in nothing but long fiber sphagnum most, the watering schedule for moss is different, if you use moss, you will have to work out the schedule, and there is a danger to keeping them too wet. Other mixes will work, adjust watering to keep them moist, not soggy, not dry for as much of the time as possible. Paph roots tend to grow a little all year round, no particular season for repotting. Repot when mix begins to break down. For bark mixes it usually be every 12 to 24 months.

Light - they like bright shade, or a few hours of morning sun. The light from 4 tubes of 40 watt fluorescent shop lights hung so all the leaves are within 9 iches of the tubes is perfect. They will survive with less light, but will grow slower as a result. The mottled leaf Maudiae type hybrids can survive in light levels just barely bright enough for ferns, but all will grow and bloom quicker if the light is brighter. Commercial greenhouses use 60% to 80% shade cloth, blocks out 60% to 80% of the light.

Fertilizer, a high nitrogen, low phosphorus, fertilizer with a full complement of micro and macro nutrients is appropriate. I use the low potassium version of the Michigan State University formulation for orchids. It has sufficient Calcium & Magnesium to cover the need for the Paphs. Only nutrient missing is sulfur. In cool weather I dose at roughly 40 ppm as N, or about 1/4 teaspoon per gallon, in summer I dose up to 120 ppm as N, or up to 1 teaspoon per gallon. Generally 1/2 teaspoon per gallon for when temperatures are between the extremes. Very hot weather, over 90 F, no fertilizer at all. If you are not using the brand of fertilizer I use, I recommend flushing with clear water between watering with fertilizer solution. Once every 3 months I use a dose of Epsom salts, 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Do not mix Epsom salts with any other fertilizer, and insoluble sulfate will for and plug up your nozzles for your watering rose. And the sulfate will not be available to the plants. If your fertilizer does not contain a significant amount of calcium and magnesium, add some crushed oyster shell, or horticultural lime to your potting mix.

Water - most Paphs are not sensitive to dissolved minerals in their water. If you get leaf tip die back on new growths, you are letting your Paphs get too dry between watering. Hard water simply serves as a Calcium and Magnesium supplement. Hard water right up to 600 ppm total dissolved solids has been used successfully by growers. Water hardness is not normally a concern.

Basically that's about it, individual species will want minor variations from this theme, but usually not far from the above plan. Paphiopedilum are sympodial herbaceous plants, meaning they have a horizontal creeping rhizome. A new growth consists of a fan of leaves, emerging from the from of the rhizome. Normally it will take from 2 to 5 years to mature a fan of leaves, once mature they flower. After flowering, new shoots will form as the rhizome extends. If there is enough vigor, multiple new fans of leaves will form. The previously flowered fan of leaves will never send up a second flower stem, but it will provide energy to the newer fans of leaves (new growths). When you repot, site plant so the root buds of the newest growth are at least 1/4 inch below the potting media. Roots exposed to air will dry out, harden, and never grow. Do not divide plants that have developed multiple leads if at all possible. Reason is that the more leads on a plant in different stages of maturity, the more frequent the plant will bloom. Flowers are long lived, usually lasting 6 weeks to 4 months depending on environment. A specimen plant with multiple leads of various ages can have a flower open for much of the year.

Annabellchen566-July2013c-cropped-resized.jpg
 
this is Paphiopedilum glaucophyllum. It is one of the ''everblooming'' Paphs. They may take 2 or more years to send a bloom stem, but once they start blooming, they can have up to 20 or more flowers, sequentially, one or two at a time for up to 5 years. For a plant to have at least one flower open for a 5 year period counts as everblooming in my book.

IMG_20160224_200616_528.jpg IMG_20160224_220959_195.jpg IMG_20160224_200554_935.jpg
 
Pretty much the same. Phalaenopsis like a coarse media, and warmer nightime temperatures than about half the slipper orchids. Phals really like to be above 65F at night where majority of slipper orchids prefer middle to lowe 60s at night. Slipper orchids like a finer grade of media relative to pot size. Both like very bright shade, both do not want to be bone dry. Phals ten to grow more quickly than Paphs.

See the thread in this sub-forum ''Winter Blues'' - there is a long discussion of Phals. It was last updated in January.
 
Thanks.I had forgotten about that.Anyway I re potted the Phal in coarse fir bark and a bigger pot.It has 2 flower stalks coming.So it is flowering for me now.
 
Orchids are cool, I have one also now, but mine has no spike :(
 
Phals, and many true tropical orchids won't drop dead when it goes below their ideal temperatures, so no worry there. Most will live in spite of dips to 40 F, or 4 C. However, they will often become dormant, and not wake up until warm weather returns. And it may take quite a few weeks of warm weather to wake them up. For example warm growing Vanda orchids, if induced to go dormant by temperatures below 65 F will require 6 to 8 weeks of temperatures above 70 F even at night to wake up. Phalaenopsis respond more quickly. Probably not a big problem. Hybrids of Phalaenopsis often include one or two of the more temperature tolerant species, hybrids might not be that sensitive. But those are the "general" guidelines.
 
Leo, Orchid Master Supreme, I found that when you cut off a flower stem after it has finished flowering, a new one will grow below the cut. Have you got thoughts about this?
Thanks in advance!
 
I bought a phalenopsis at the farmers market last summer. The flower spike dried up, I repotted it and now it just keeps adding leaves and roots. I don't know if I even like it anymore.
 
I bought a phalenopsis at the farmers market last summer. The flower spike dried up, I repotted it and now it just keeps adding leaves and roots. I don't know if I even like it anymore.

A big complaint about orchids is that many are ugly when not in bloom, ugly leaves, ugly roots that flail wildly in the air. LOL, that is their nature. Usually Phalaenopsis in markets and box stores are first bloom seedlings - young plants - they usually need 2 years to build energy to bloom the second time. You need leaves and roots to make flowers. Once it accumulates enough energy (stored starches and sugars) it will bloom again. A mature Phalaenopsis, with more than 3 pairs of leaves (more than 6 leaves), mature Phals will change their blooming behavior, throwing up more flowers, longer lasting individual blooms, and a longer lived inflorescence. Many Phal hybrids can bloom 10 months of the year, some will bloom continuously for 5 years on a bloom stem. But you need a mature plant with many leaves to do this.

If you had your Phalaenopsis more than 2 years and it has not bloomed, it needs something more. More light, more water, more fertilizer, more of something. Think about your specific conditions and which of the basic needs it might need more of, and you will be on the way to a continuously blooming Phal.
 
A big complaint about orchids is that many are ugly when not in bloom, ugly leaves, ugly roots that flail wildly in the air. LOL, that is their nature. Usually Phalaenopsis in markets and box stores are first bloom seedlings - young plants - they usually need 2 years to build energy to bloom the second time. You need leaves and roots to make flowers. Once it accumulates enough energy (stored starches and sugars) it will bloom again. A mature Phalaenopsis, with more than 3 pairs of leaves (more than 6 leaves), mature Phals will change their blooming behavior, throwing up more flowers, longer lasting individual blooms, and a longer lived inflorescence. Many Phal hybrids can bloom 10 months of the year, some will bloom continuously for 5 years on a bloom stem. But you need a mature plant with many leaves to do this.

If you had your Phalaenopsis more than 2 years and it has not bloomed, it needs something more. More light, more water, more fertilizer, more of something. Think about your specific conditions and which of the basic needs it might need more of, and you will be on the way to a continuously blooming Phal.
Thanks, I've repotted it from the 1" feeble plastic cup it was in (inside a cheap looking purple pot) into a 5" plastic orchid pot. It currently has 8 leaves with another one forming, with new roots popping out along the stalk/trunk. Thanks for the info about the bloom cycle. I know I should learn more about them, but to be honest I expected it to die. I'll just keep looking after it and see what happens.
 
Leo, Orchid Master Supreme, I found that when you cut off a flower stem after it has finished flowering, a new one will grow below the cut. Have you got thoughts about this?
Thanks in advance!
Awe Shucks, you're too kind with the praise. There are many better orchid growers than I, mostly made my reputation by being better at talking and typing about what I do than most. There are orchid growers I am in total awe of, as they do a much better job than I do. I do have a couple national awards for orchid culture, so I know I'm not bad at it, but there are many who are even better at it than I.

Cutting Phalaenopsis inflorescences (spikes for short) - I used to cut the spikes, after the last flower of the first flush of blooms was done, and then about 3 months later a bud lower on the stem will sprout and be in bloom about 6 months after the first stem started opening flowers. But the new branches always ended up looking awkward, coming off at odd angles. Also I discovered that with a mature Phalaenopsis (more than 3 pairs of leaves) if the bloom spikes stays green, often after a couple month rest, it will begin growing again, and put out a few more flowers. Sometimes it will continue growing for upwards of 5 years or more, and the buds lower down will also sprout and grow. In this case, because the original is still there, the branches when they start blooming don't look as awkward, as it is a logical arrangement of flowers

Now my habit is to not cut off a flower stem unless it has dried out and turned brown. If it is still green I keep it, as it may start blooming again. This way you will get the maximum number of flowers possible out of your orchid.

For show purposes only - If I have a plant I want to grow more quickly to mature size I will cut off flower stems at the base of the plant, as soon as they are a few inches long. I will do this for several years, until I have more than 4 pairs of leaves. Then I will let the plant bloom. Because the plant has been storing up energy, the blooming will be exuberant, with bigger flowers and more flowers than normal. I only do this with plants I know will bloom at the right time for a specific show. I haven't bothered with this in many years, but it is one technique to make sure you have some spectacular show plants when you know you are doing a certain show at the same time of year, every year.

If a flower stem gets long and ungainly with only a few flowers at the end, and you are tired of looking at a messy plant, cut the stem off at the base, and next year you will get a fresh new stem. There is nothing wrong with trying to keep your orchids neat and orderly looking.

Staking up flowering stems will help with presentation. When thee flower buds have developed enough to have separated from the stem, it is time to stake the spike for appearance. If you like the arch it has, no need to stake it, but if you want the stem more upright, stake it when the buds have started to separate from the stem. Don't wait longer than that. Once flowers start to open, if you change the angle of the stem the flowers won't face out where you want them to.

Hope that helps. h
 
Back
Top Bottom