Newbie with a Koto Hime - How does this one look?

tpdietz

Seed
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Ann Arbor, MI
USDA Zone
6
Hi all!

First post! I am new to these forums and the hobby of Bonsai. I have recently acquired (what I believe to be) a koto hime Japanese maple. I don't have a clue how old it is, if its healthy, or really how to care for it...and I suppose that's why I am here. I have done quite a bit of research online before joining this forum and posting this thread, but still don't have a firm grasp on what I can do to ensure a big bright future for my new tree.

Questions I have:

1. Can anyone guess how old this tree is? I suppose that does not really matter, but when searching online for my species of tree I don't really see many that look quite like mine. Specifically, the green-ness of the trunk.

2. Do you think this tree appears healthy? I see some minor yellowing (and even some very small dark spots), which I'm not sure is normal. Are these potentially early indicators of a problem?

3. Does this need to be outdoors all the time? I've heard from someone working at my local greenhouse that this is an outdoor bonsai. However googling this question leads me to believe you can do either.

4. Is this pot too small? I've seen bonsai root balls, and they've seemed much larger than I could have ever anticipated. This pot seems rather small, but I am somewhat worried about trying to repot when I don't know much.

5. Do you have any links/videos/resources that lead to more descriptive care about the koto hime? Most websites I've seen give very basic information that seems incomplete. For example, the first 5 links I found on google when searching "kotohime bonsai maple indoor" don't indicate at all whether or not to place this plant inside or outside...this leads me to believe the websites I'm coming across aren't very good.

6. Do you see any branches or other unsightly oddities you'd recommend I remove now for a better future? I know this is subjective, but I'd really like to hear your opinion if you have one. I'm lost and any information at this stage is extremely helpful.

Thank you for your time! If you have any information to share about your experience with this beautiful tree, I'd love to hear about it :)

Best,
Troy
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1357.jpg
    IMG_1357.jpg
    213.2 KB · Views: 247
  • IMG_1358.jpg
    IMG_1358.jpg
    218.4 KB · Views: 230
  • IMG_1359.jpg
    IMG_1359.jpg
    221.9 KB · Views: 207
  • IMG_1360.jpg
    IMG_1360.jpg
    186.5 KB · Views: 203
  • IMG_1361.jpg
    IMG_1361.jpg
    226.2 KB · Views: 222
Hi all!

First post! I am new to these forums and the hobby of Bonsai. I have recently acquired (what I believe to be) a koto hime Japanese maple. I don't have a clue how old it is, if its healthy, or really how to care for it...and I suppose that's why I am here. I have done quite a bit of research online before joining this forum and posting this thread, but still don't have a firm grasp on what I can do to ensure a big bright future for my new tree.

Questions I have:

1. Can anyone guess how old this tree is? I suppose that does not really matter, but when searching online for my species of tree I don't really see many that look quite like mine. Specifically, the green-ness of the trunk.
Probably 3-8 years old. Could be a little older, but doesn't really matter.
2. Do you think this tree appears healthy? I see some minor yellowing (and even some very small dark spots), which I'm not sure is normal. Are these potentially early indicators of a problem?
Looks pretty healthy. The "yellowing" I can see looks like new leaves that haven't "hardened off" yet. They will appear more fragile and thin because they have not formed their cuticle.
3. Does this need to be outdoors all the time? I've heard from someone working at my local greenhouse that this is an outdoor bonsai. However googling this question leads me to believe you can do either.
Yes. Outside. Even in the winter it needs at least a month or more of sub 45 degree temperature. Google is not your friend in this case.
4. Is this pot too small? I've seen bonsai root balls, and they've seemed much larger than I could have ever anticipated. This pot seems rather small, but I am somewhat worried about trying to repot when I don't know much.
The pot is ok for now. If you want this tree to grow larger faster, you should repot it next spring.
5. Do you have any links/videos/resources that lead to more descriptive care about the koto hime? Most websites I've seen give very basic information that seems incomplete. For example, the first 5 links I found on google when searching "kotohime bonsai maple indoor" don't indicate at all whether or not to place this plant inside or outside...this leads me to believe the websites I'm coming across aren't very good.
Follow advice for standard Japanese Maple care. This will cover the basics. There are some nuances to koto hime that you can start to learn eventually, but your main goal is to keep this tree alive and thriving for a year.
6. Do you see any branches or other unsightly oddities you'd recommend I remove now for a better future? I know this is subjective, but I'd really like to hear your opinion if you have one. I'm lost and any information at this stage is extremely helpful.
At this point I would keep everything. Study the tree over the next few months and start to think about what final size tree you'd like from it at the end (note that koto hime will take a very long time to make a large tree - probably better to envision something in the 6-12" final tree.
Thank you for your time! If you have any information to share about your experience with this beautiful tree, I'd love to hear about it :)

Best,
Troy
Welcome! Answered some in bold above.
 
Hello and welcome! I too am relatively new to bonsai but I think I can take a crack at your questions, and if I'm off the mark, I hope the other nuts here can correct me.

1. Can anyone guess how old this tree is? I suppose that does not really matter, but when searching online for my species of tree I don't really see many that look quite like mine. Specifically, the green-ness of the trunk.
I'd guess it's somewhere between 3-8 years of age as well. The trunk isn't yet very think, and they start out green, developing more textured grey bark as they mature. The green is totally normal!
2. Do you think this tree appears healthy? I see some minor yellowing (and even some very small dark spots), which I'm not sure is normal. Are these potentially early indicators of a problem?
Indeed, looks nice and healthy! Minor yellowing could just be getting used to its new home, and a different amount of light exposure. If a couple of leaves go that is okay, but if everything starts to change colour evenly it may be a water, soil, or nutrient issue as opposed to light. A close-up of the leaves in question would help!
3. Does this need to be outdoors all the time? I've heard from someone working at my local greenhouse that this is an outdoor bonsai. However googling this question leads me to believe you can do either.
In order to have it thrive indoors, you'd need a very good lightning system. Maples thrive outdoors, and Japanese maples are fairly cold-hardy! Here in Toronto, I see them used in landscapes all the time. It will be healthiest outside.
4. Is this pot too small? I've seen bonsai root balls, and they've seemed much larger than I could have ever anticipated. This pot seems rather small, but I am somewhat worried about trying to repot when I don't know much.
Pot is not yet too small, especially considering the exposed roots. It looks in proportion to that. I wouldn't worry about repotting it yet.
5. Do you have any links/videos/resources that lead to more descriptive care about the koto hime? Most websites I've seen give very basic information that seems incomplete. For example, the first 5 links I found on google when searching "kotohime bonsai maple indoor" don't indicate at all whether or not to place this plant inside or outside...this leads me to believe the websites I'm coming across aren't very good.
Koto Hime refers to the specific cultivar, which is a named variety of Japanese maple. In particular, they are noted for having tight bunches of leaves (kinda like my Shishigashira Japanese maple) and the smallest leaves of most other cultivars. This makes them great for extra tiny bonsai, if you want! Pretty much any Japanese maple care guide can be followed, especially here on Bonsai Nut. Personally, I spend a lot of time admiring and learning a lot about Japanese maples from Momiji-En Bonsai on YouTube and would recommend you check it out in addition to other threads on this forum.
6. Do you see any branches or other unsightly oddities you'd recommend I remove now for a better future? I know this is subjective, but I'd really like to hear your opinion if you have one. I'm lost and any information at this stage is extremely helpful.
With new tree purchases I usually let it grow in for a while, and make sure the tree is healthy and has adapted to its new environment before thinking about pruning. I would encourage the branches on top to grow, to have more options for growth and branching, but that goes for most branches I think.
 
Welcome to Crazy!

IMO, this is quite a valuable piece. I like how the exposed roots make sense, the difficulty may be getting the top to "match" or work well with the roots.

The first part of growth looks prime to cut back to, one stronger new lead, one first branch.

Probably not soon, but this can be a bitchin tree.

Sorce
 
Absolutely an outdoor tree. The nurseryman who told you otherwise was ignorant or lying to make a sale.
Kotohime are one of the smallest leaf cultivars of Acer palmatum and are slow growing with short internodes which make it a great bonsai subject.
The soil it is in looks pretty bad. I keep my Japanese maples in 70% akadama / 30% pumice.
My advice for this tree is to use it to learn how to keep it healthy and happy.
By the way , kotohime is one of the easiest japanese maples to grow from cuttings so save all of your trimmings and you can soon have a bunch of trees.
 
Thank you all for your responses! They are very helpful. My primary objective will be trying to keep it alive for now as-is. Current focus is trying to figure out the best outdoor placement and how frequently I should water. At the moment, I have it outside facing East, which has direct sunlight, but to prevent it from burning it I've placed a larger plant in between this tree and the sun to help provide shade.

I've attached some close detail photos of what I'd considered to be most unhealthy portion of the tree. Does this seem normal looking to you guys? Any ideas what would cause these leaves to brown the way they are?

Do you know what humidity levels I should be targeting with a meter? I just ordered one on Amazon because I'm worried about over watering it.

I also ordered some liquid bonsai fertilizer (3-1-2 NPK ratio) from amazon. Do you recommend I start using it?

@PaulH, regarding your comment about the soil. Do you recommended I replace the soil now?

And that's great news about the trimmings, I will be sure to try and propagate when the time comes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1365.jpg
    IMG_1365.jpg
    195 KB · Views: 137
  • IMG_1367.jpg
    IMG_1367.jpg
    158.6 KB · Views: 105
  • IMG_1369.jpg
    IMG_1369.jpg
    165 KB · Views: 92
  • IMG_1372.jpg
    IMG_1372.jpg
    234.1 KB · Views: 92
  • IMG_1378.jpg
    IMG_1378.jpg
    171.1 KB · Views: 179
Do you know what humidity levels I should be targeting with a meter? I just ordered one on Amazon because I'm worried about over watering it.

I also ordered some liquid bonsai fertilizer (3-1-2 NPK ratio) from amazon. Do you recommend I start using it?
When you mention humidity levels, do you mean of the air? Don’t worry about that cause you won’t be able to control it while the tree is outside. You might not find much use for the metre if you only bought it for the bonsai lol

Instead, because the tree is in a pot, you only need to be worried about how moist the soil is. This has everything to do with watering. Most commonly you’ll find people water their bonsai once daily, sometimes twice or three times in the summer, depending on location. This is because soil mixtures as was mentioned before, like akadama with pumice, will retain the right amount of moisture to keep the roots happy, without drowning them, while also allowing enough oxygen to the roots. This is why it might be good to eventually repot yours, because that soil doesn’t look like it has great drainage, and might hold too much water. VERY generally: if it’s wet, don’t water it, but if it’s dry, make it wet.

Fetilizing can be done lots of different ways. A lot of people recommend a balanced fertilizer like a 2-2-2 ratio but what you’ve got is fine, just don’t overdo it. Personally I use 2-3-2 as that’s what was gifted to me and I put only a punch in every watering can. Some people do organic pellets they leave in the soil, that’s fine too.

The brown spots just look like the tree might’ve gotten a little dry or too much sun before you got it, nothing to worry about. The brown part is already dead but it isn’t dying back further. The yellow leaves just look juvenile to me, not like they were a healthy green and then changed colour because of something bad.
 
When you mention humidity levels, do you mean of the air?
Oops!, definitely a typo lol. I bought a soil moisture meter (does not require batteries). I figured there would be a scientific way to measure the moisture to prevent me from over watering. However, at closer glance of the pictures, this meter has a scale from 1-10. Levels 1-3 = dry, 4-7 = moist, 8-10 = wet. Considering this meter doesn't have a unit of measure, I'm guessing its going to be tough for someone to tell me a good level lol! :)

Thank you for your response
 
I reckon if your soil is wet, then gets hot, you're more likely to have problems.

Better to water when wet to cool it off.

Drying death takes around one minute.

Wet death takes months.

Best to err to wet.

Sorce
 
The best soil moisture meter is your finger. If the soil just below the surface is dry its time to water. if its wet no water needed. It is also important to water correctly. Water until all the soil surface is absorbing water and it is running out of the drain holes. Correct watering not only provides water for transpiration but helps carry oxygen into the soil which is important for healthy roots.
Repotting of maples is best in Spring just as buds start to swell.
 
The best soil moisture meter is your finger. If the soil just below the surface is dry its time to water. if its wet no water needed. It is also important to water correctly. Water until all the soil surface is absorbing water and it is running out of the drain holes. Correct watering not only provides water for transpiration but helps carry oxygen into the soil which is important for healthy roots.
Repotting of maples is best in Spring just as buds start to swell.
I was trying this and I am having hard time judging. On a newly gifted shimpaku juniper Iam getting some yellowing needles. which I understand to mean too much watering.

But from what I could find out this tree was last repotted 3 years agoa nd wired 3 years ago. IT has a lot of wire damage. I removed that wires and raffia and planned to just nurse it through winter and repot next spring.
But along with the yellowing it is also putting out berries which I also understand might be a sign of a weak tree?
It sounds like I picked up the same water meter as the other poster. IT also measures PH which is reading about 7. the moisture was at 2.

Right now I dont trust my judgement, so I was hoping to rely on a meter. IF I keep it at 4 lowest post and let it dry to 2ish am I safe? (ps I know it might not be accurate but if it's at least consistently inaccurate it still gives me something to go on?
 
Trees naturally grow outdoors. Never once have I heard it said "honey, another elm is growing in the living room". The tree should be outdoors at basically all times (there are times we bring them indoors in the transition from winter to spring, but otherwise outdoors).

I can't really tell what the soil is composed of, but I'd leave it be for now and repot into a bonsai soil in early spring. Just watch the watering. Moisture meters aren't exactly accurate, and are useless in bonsai soil. But I think you could use it in more of a potting soil type mixture to give you a general idea of when you need to water.

Watering is one of those funny things in bonsai, as there can't really be fixed times/rules for watering - you need to water when the tree needs water. Assuming the meter is even correct, setting a rule that you don't water until the meter reads 2 may be dangerous. What if it reads 3, you are going to work and it will be a hot day?

When you repot, consider your objectives with this tree. If you want to grow the tree out larger, perhaps repot it into a larger grow box.

Otherwise, the tree looks healthy.
 
Back
Top Bottom