New trident maple and a question about branch development

[KennedyMarx]

I acquired this from a friend of mine. He had it in a growing bed and dug it up earlier this year. I haven't decided if I want to keep it about this height and have a taller feminine tree or air layer the top and develop the bottom as a more masculine shohin.

How should I go by about developing branching on this? Do I need to continually cut the top back so the apex doesn't sap the strength from the lower branches I want to grow? I'm planning on just letting them run and then eventually cutting back and growing back out for taper. I'm just not sure how apically dominate these are. I appreciate any advice.

 

[GrimLore]

I would not cut the top if you intend to keep it small/medium sized. Ramification and branch development on most Maples is pretty easy if you have the time. There was a thread that someone illustrated the process here but I cannot locate it. I did however find this illustrated thread which to me is very good. http://bjorvalabonsaistudio.com/201...ted-by-continued-bud-pinching-in-the-spring2/ After you flip through it you will see that is simple, just not simple to explain without illustration.

Grimmy

 

[MACH5]

Nice little tree Kennedy! Even if you want to keep it at a small size I would still let it develop and not cut back as Grimmy mentioned. This material is still very young and needs time to bulk up. If you intend to create a longer and more feminine image I would bend the trunk for a more interesting sinuous trunk line as it is too straight at the moment and let it grow and develop.

 

[KennedyMarx]

I slipped this into a pond basket with better coarse soil (half pumice half akadama). There weren't a lot of roots, but there were some nice white new root growth. The soil just kind of fell off the edges and I just slipped it into the basket without touching any roots. I should have taken a pic because there is one long (six inch nearly) thick root that is going to need to be cut back. I figured I'd just graft some roots to help fix the nebari next year.

 

[MACH5]

I figured I'd just graft some roots to help fix the nebari next year.

Or... you can air layer it. I think this may be a better option in this case.

 

[KennedyMarx]

Do you think I could use that big root as a root cutting?

 

[Eric Group]

I like this little tree too! Looks like you have a good start on some taper there for such a small tree!

What Mach and Grimmy are recommending is pretty much what I expect most people will tell you- let it grow for a while. You could air layer if the nebari is a big concern right now... And if you a re going to Air layer, normally this wouldnt be a really bad time to start one- BUT since this tree was just put through a lot it seems like (shipped then repotted soon after right?) I would wait at least a year... And since you are waiting... You might want to check the existing roots before you layer- might be pleasantly surprised to see some new roots grow over the course of the coming year. Even a well done layer isn't 100%, so it is best to use what you got if you can! If it was mine, I'd probably go ahead and stick it in the ground and let the roots escape the pond basket. Should keep a nice compact root system in the basket while still letting it grow out as much as possible... But I don't know what kind of yard you have to work with or what kind of snow drift issues you expect in the winter. Those are not concerns of mine normally...

Again though, I like the tree... But that is a biased opinion as I haven't met many Maples I did NOT like!

 

[KennedyMarx]

It was in a grow bed, dug up this spring and potted into a bulb pan. I picked it up from a guy in my club. Only thing I've done was pull it out of the pot and slip it into the pond basket. There weren't a whole lot of roots. At least not what I would expect but I've never dug a tree.

 

[MACH5]

If it was slip potted you can air-layer now if that's the route you want to take. If you want to work with the existing nebari, I would address that very thick root that you mentioned [and anything else like crossing roots] early on as these things becoming more difficult to fix as the tree ages. As long as the tree does well this year, next spring I would repot, wash the roots well and see what you got to work with.


Not sure about your root cutting question? Do you mean you want to make another plant out of the thick root?

 

[KennedyMarx]

I know that with a Chinese elm or ficus you can repot a thick root and it will sprout new foliage. I was wondering if I could chop the thick root off the trident, repot it, and get a new flush of foliage coming out of it.

 

[MACH5]

Don't know. Hopefully someone here knows for sure.

 

[garywood]

I know that with a Chinese elm or ficus you can repot a thick root and it will sprout new foliage. I was wondering if I could chop the thick root off the trident, repot it, and get a new flush of foliage coming out of it.

KM, unfortunately Tridents are one of those that won't propagate from root cuttings

 

[Eric Group]

It was in a grow bed, dug up this spring and potted into a bulb pan. I picked it up from a guy in my club. Only thing I've done was pull it out of the pot and slip it into the pond basket. There weren't a whole lot of roots. At least not what I would expect but I've never dug a tree.

Ok, I got the impression you changed out the soil and everything... If it was just a slip pot, and you barely disturbed the roots, you can probably go ahead and layer it any time you like. Sometimes when they are growing out in the ground, or a really large box they don't develop a bunch of fine roots close in to the trunk because the roots are growing long instead... I hope your tree thrives for you! Please keep us updated!

 

[GrimLore]

I would let it grow this season and then use a wire tourniquet method in early Spring for a new root system as described in this article - http://www.bonsai4me.com/AdvTech/ATNebari.html. I am certain you would be more pleased with the results. Also I never saw a successful root cutting on a Trident.

Grimmy

 

[KennedyMarx]

Thank everyone for the help and suggestions. I think I'd like to have the tree end up ten or twelve inches tall. There is a branch that I plan on using as the new leader. So the spot right above is where I would like to do an air layer. Next year once it's settled in I will feel more comfortable doing the layer. I would consider doing it now, but I really don't want to shift the tree around in the pot breaking up any newly developing roots. For now I'm just letting it grow.

 

[Neli]

I dont know but what have you got to loose? Just try it.

 

[GrimLore]

Thank everyone for the help and suggestions. I think I'd like to have the tree end up ten or twelve inches tall. There is a branch that I plan on using as the new leader. So the spot right above is where I would like to do an air layer. Next year once it's settled in I will feel more comfortable doing the layer. I would consider doing it now, but I really don't want to shift the tree around in the pot breaking up any newly developing roots. For now I'm just letting it grow.

Here I do my best to have the layer separated 6 or more weeks before Winter sets in, otherwise the tree gets Wintered with layer attached. To me 6 weeks or more gives the separated layer time to get "happy".

Grimmy

 

[Saddler]

How is this tree doing?