Need help with ficus styling

[Biscuit's Trees]

New to the forum, as a member anyway. Been in and out of bonsai for years.
This ficus was one of my earliest trees and is now the longest-surviving one. I air-layered it from a branch on a large 5 year old tree in 1988. It was put immediately in a bonsai pot and has always been in one over the years. Being "new to the sport" I didn't give the poor thing the best care or styling over the years. It has survived many different attempts at soil mixtures, fertilizing, etc.
Due to long, gangly branches I deleafed the tree about a week and a half ago.
So, 3 questions for ya'll:
1. The branch structure is "flawed" by traditional bonsai tenets with bar branches and multiple branches off one spot. How should I prune the branches to
improve the structure? Particularly on the tree's right side trunk.
2. Any suggestions for changing the tops of the 2 main trunks.
3. After this deleafing how soon can I begin wiring the branches. It has never been wired.

Here is the front:


The rear:


Detail of the larger trunk:



Detail of smaller trunk:


Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Shibui]

You can wire branches any time. Right after defoliation if you like.

1. The branch structure is "flawed" by traditional bonsai tenets with bar branches and multiple branches off one spot. How should I prune the branches to
improve the structure? Particularly on the tree's right side trunk.

Remove extra branches from clusters. Try to leave the best positioned branch and/or best developed branch at each site if possible.

2. Any suggestions for changing the tops of the 2 main trunks.

The tree is quite tall and skinny so I would be considering spots to prune to reduce height if possible.
Hard to see from the pics but it appears that the tops of both trunks grow toward the current rear side? Consider making the current back into a new front if that's the case.
Changing front would allow shortening the smaller trunk to the upright branch.

Tops of both trunks are intertwined (grey area)
Cut at red lines to reduce height, separate tops. Removing the really long upper branch will help restore a more tapered outline on that trunk.

Look for similar options on the other trunk.
Ficus usually respond really well to pruning so shortening long branches won't hurt and you'll have a much better overall outline to the tree.

 

[Crazy Diamond]

What Ficus is that? Benjamina? I woudnt defoliate them unless they are very healthy and strong, all the ones I had hated defoliation

 

[Biscuit's Trees]

Arnold, it is a Benjamina. I didn't know they were intolerant of defoliating. I did that to it once and it did okay but that was probably 20 years ago. Frankly, with my expertise I'm
surprised it has lived this long!

Shibui, thanks a bunch for the advice! I will cut down the radial clusters. The original shape of the tree had the "ladder" branches on the trunk
without the knot hole so I always have had trouble deciding which ones to prune and not make it too sparse.

I haven't thought too much about reversing the front to the back. I guess I thought the "hole" from the old trunk removal along with the root
structure made it seem like the front, but that "hole" did always sorta bug me like being a distraction, too. I guess I have become too comfortable
with it to really see the potential. If you enlarge the thumbprints, what is your opinion about the roots front - versus - rear?

I agree it is too gangly - I let it get away from me. I do indeed like the suggestion to shorten it at the red line you marked. That would definitely improve the taper and proportions.

And thanks on the wiring tip. I think I'll tackle that next week.

 

[Shibui]

what is your opinion about the roots front - versus - rear?

marginally better from the current front but not enough to beat apex going backwards or tree being too tall.

This being F. benjamina means you should be a little more careful with both pruning and repot as they are known to be slightly less tolerant. Mostly you'll get away with it but sometimes not. Best to prune to existing branches rather than chop to bare wood. Normal trimming of new shoots is no problem. More trimming will usually produce more shoots that will fill out branches rather than using clusters of branches.
Feed figs well. They respond really well to fertilizer and will develop much quicker when fed well.

 

[Biscuit's Trees]

Thanks, Shibui.
Usually feed it every 14 - 15 days.
Gonna start reshaping and wiring and will post further pics.

 

[sorce]

Concrete hollow patch.

I saw Peter Tea do this with a trident. Having some concrete left over from my pot project, I decided why not. Heres the hole. This is part of my OG Benjamin. Sentimental practice material, emphasis on the mental. It's In a pot poured haphazardly of hydraulic cement. There's the taper Im...

www.bonsainut.com

I don't find they mind going leafless.

Sorce

 

[penumbra]

What Ficus is that? Benjamina? I woudnt defoliate them unless they are very healthy and strong, all the ones I had hated defoliation

I don't find they mind going leafless.

I have heard many times that F benjamini do not like to be defoliated. Fortunately I never read this before I defoliated several over the years, because none that I have defoliated have given me any issue. I wonder if this belief stems from defoliation of the species rather than the cultivars. I work with about ten of the cultivars and have had no problems.
I do remember having a good size F benjamini many years ago. It was a real bitch. It would drop leaves if you looked at it the wrong way and it sulked when pruned. None of my cultivars act this way.