INDIGO-STEVE
Yamadori
Does anyone know if it's ok to mix Malathion with Daconil or Cleary's 3336F? Sorry if this question has been answered before.
Hey DSDThank you for posting folks. It’s good to explore the broader implications of using hazardous chemicals as a hobbyist.
As a former professional, there are more important things to consider than “Will these chemicals mix safely together?.” prior to using/mixing toxic and/or hazardous chemicals.
Here are a few key questions a hobbyist should ask themselves before considering using/mixing any toxins and/or hazardous chemicals. i.e. “Will tow or more chemicals mix safely together”. (Can I do this?”
A. Why do I need to do this?
B. Are there known pests or pathogens present… that these chemicals are effective on, or is this “A shot in the dark”
C. What are the unintended consequences of using these chemicals? (Both immediate and longer term)
D. How do I safely dispose of the unused portions of toxic and/or hazardous chemicals?
- to the user,
- to the trees or crops being sprayed (and the rhizosphere.)
- to children and pets
- to the environment
- of storing these chemicals on my property (how to safely store chemicals on a individuals property are rarely considered imho.)
E. Compatibility - A final bit of information about “What compatibility means” (on these charts)
Take care not to confuse compatibility with crop safety.
When these charts indicate two insecticides or fungicides are compatible, it simply means they form a solution that can be easily sprayed. Incompatible solutions form globs or crystals in the spray tank, or they separate into distinct layers. They're not worth mixing for practical and economical reasons, but there's still a question of crop safety that must be tested.
The likelihood of crop damage increases if each chemical in your tank mix requires different application conditions. Compare the instructions on each product to see if they can be applied in similar temperatures or times of day. If their instructions are consistent, spray just a few plants and wait a few days to observe the results. Proceed with spraying the entire crop with this tank mix if the test plants appear unharmed.
Cheers
DSD sends
Sure is nice to not have to worry about all this crap when you have an organic garden based on good horticultural practices, rather than chemicals
Hey DSD
This is something I have debated in my mind and gone back on fourth on mixing different Fungicides and Insecticides together. For a couple years, I would mix them together if it said it's okay after googling the answer. I've since decided to stop mixing chemicals together, but it does feel like a lot more effort to spray things separately and spraying is already my least favorite things to do. I may have experienced some light damage to the leaf's on a couple of my Ume from mixing chemicals, however I can't totally rule out that it's something else.
Few follow up questions for you:
-How long do many of these chemicals last? Is there a general rule of thumb for throwing them away after X number of years?
Pack up the excess hazardous chemicals securely in something like a 5 gal bucket with sealable lid, then take to the nearest hazardous waste facility.-How should we dispose of them properly?
These are the key points.-What are some best practices for storing chemicals?
Pretty darn good start…-What are some best practices for protecting yourself when spraying?
Personally, I wear long sleeve clothes and pants along with a full face respirator with replaceable cartridges. I spray on non-windy days, then immediately put my clothes in the wash after spraying. What do you think about this process?
We often used Tyvek suits and (PAPR respirators at times) and the suits are pretty darn cheap, nowadays like 10.00. I used them on the job, but since I rarely use hazardous chemicals, mine is still in the wrapper.If you get a full on jump suit for spraying, what do you do with it after you spray?
Thank you!Really appreciate your response!
The answer is it depends on the chemical and that lifetime of the hazardous chemical is often not listed, but often a long time. The issue is sometimes these chemicals degrade over time into something even worse. Most people that actually read SDS stop at the initial warnings, don’t even look at storage….
One universal rule. If one is not actively using a hazardous chemical, dispose of it. Lots of problems have occurred from folks accumulating hazardous chemicals they aren’t using.
For example for Malathion. Just for fun, look at the link in my first post on this thread for Malathion’s SDS and read Sections 7, 8, 10 and 11.
Pack up the excess hazardous chemicals securely in something like a 5 gal bucket with sealable lid, then take to the nearest hazardous waste facility.
By regs counties are supposed to have a hazardous waste disposal facility, lots of bidder cities have a couple. In WA state there are lots, I‘m sure that’s similar in CA. Yet.sometimes it’s all the way across the county, sometimes there are multiple pop up / drop off staging areas.
Once we had to dispose of some non nuclear hazardous waste in Oak Ridge, TN (It wasn’t at the plant as they have their own.) The Haz Waste facility was closed, so the haz waste all had to be properly packed and sent to Knoxville,
Usually the SDS merely tells folks to dispose of contents/containers according to local, state and federal regulations. Ordinary Joe Q. Citizen is left to figure that out on his/her own…. And something not good can happen inadvertently due to lack of knowledge. Local and state folks are getting way better about this stuff.
These are the key points.
1. Cool
2. Well ventilated
3. Within secondary containment. (A container that will hold all the liquid waste in case it spills out accidentally… in our areas sifting ground…)
4. Out of the sunlight
5. Lockable or otherwise out of reach of children and pets.
Most folks can manage 1-4 and the latter half of #5. Yet it might mean moving things around.
Pretty darn good start…
A couple other things to have when using haz chems…and one caution.1. Nitrile gloves.2. Boots like Wellies with pants on the outside.Caution: Having a respirator and cartridges is not enough. The cartridges have to match the hazard.A couple cartridges that are often used are:3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60923, 1 Pair, Helps Protect Against Organic Vapors, Acid Gases, and Particulates.
Also the 3M Organic Vapor Cartridge 6001 (Pair)
These do have lifetimes too. Read the instructions with each.
But don’t trust me, look it up!
We often used Tyvek suits and (PAPR respirators at times) and the suits are pretty darn cheap, nowadays like 10.00. I used them on the job, but since I rarely use hazardous chemicals, mine is still in the wrapper.
Some folks washed these off and reused them during some jobs…. For me It would depend on the situation and hazard. Spraying haz chemicals presents a unique challenge for hazard control.
Thank you!
One question back. Are you precautionary spraying? If so what are the reasons for this at your site ? … I guess that was two q’s sorry.
cheers
DSD sends