Mixing Malathion with fungicides

INDIGO-STEVE

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Does anyone know if it's ok to mix Malathion with Daconil or Cleary's 3336F? Sorry if this question has been answered before.
 
Don’t do it. It’s absolutely not a good idea to mix hazardous chemicals together.. at all!

While mixing any chemicals together can lead to unpredictable synergistic effects, often leading to really nasty incidents, mixing hazardous chemicals together goes well beyond that.

I’ve been involved in a number hazmat incidents over time as a Chemical Hygiene Officer. Believe me, it didn’t turn out well for anyone involved.

Just to give you an idea of what the separate hazards of each these chemicals being proposing for use are…. Here’s the Safety Data Sheets on each.

Cleary’s 3336F

Daconil

Malathion

As one can see, these three guys are all pretty nasty on their own, requiring PPE and lots of care to avoid personal injury to the user and others and to the environment.

Not saying one shouldn’t use these, although I avoid each, just saying take extreme precautions personally with PPE when using and how one is storing each… and watch out for wind when delivering the chemicals.

Be safe
DSDsends
 
Hi,
I am sorry to disagree here, as @Deep Sea Diver might have valid concerns.
If you look at Chemical ‘compatibility’ charts for Agrichemicals it will tell you that both of the fungicides are compatible with Malathion. Yes, very wise to be cautious as Malathion is a known carcinogen, eg PPE gear. I have been using Agrichemicals for 30+ years and wouldn’t think twice about mixing two of them together, not all three.
There seems to be an awful lot of the “Oooh chemicals are bad, well so bad that you shouldn’t use” but this is so one sided and IMOH poorly given advice.
Using chemicals safely is paramount, and always wise, but if the OP is even contemplating using these chemicals then I suggest they research the compatibility for themselves and you will find the majority of these chemicals are ok to mix. Just don’t go mixing Lime Sulphur with anything. Maybe DSD thinks there is going to be some sort of exo-thermic reaction to put the OP in a dangerous position, which I can guarantee he won’t.
These comments are experience based and not opinions. My addition to this discussion, take it or leave it.
Charles.

Edit- A quick google search - Is Malathion compatible with fungicides?

Answer: These products can be mixed together. We would recommend doing a small tank mixture to ensure that there is no clumping.
 
Do you really need to mix them and spray at the same time for a particular problem you have right now? Or is this thought of as more of a preventative measure, more efficient, just in case and it’s just easier to spray at one time? I know I answered your question with broader questions. I just wondered why you were mixing. I don’t have an issue using chemicals. I use them for specific needs I’ve identified.
 
Thoughtful, valid concerns and knowledgeable advice. Kudos to all.
Mixing chemicals requires due diligence and there should be a valid need to do so.
 
Thank you for posting folks. It’s good to explore the broader implications of using hazardous chemicals as a hobbyist.

As a former professional, there are more important things to consider than “Will these chemicals mix safely together?.” prior to using/mixing toxic and/or hazardous chemicals.

Here are a few key questions a hobbyist should ask themselves before considering using/mixing any toxins and/or hazardous chemicals. i.e. “Will tow or more chemicals mix safely together”. (Can I do this?”

A. Why do I need to do this?

B. Are there known pests or pathogens present… that these chemicals are effective on, or is this “A shot in the dark”

C. What are the unintended consequences of using these chemicals? (Both immediate and longer term)

  1. to the user,
  2. to the trees or crops being sprayed (and the rhizosphere.)
  3. to children and pets
  4. to the environment
  5. of storing these chemicals on my property (how to safely store chemicals on a individuals property are rarely considered imho.)
D. How do I safely dispose of the unused portions of toxic and/or hazardous chemicals?

E. Compatibility - A final bit of information about “What compatibility means” (on these charts)

Take care not to confuse compatibility with crop safety.

When these charts indicate two insecticides or fungicides are compatible, it simply means they form a solution that can be easily sprayed. Incompatible solutions form globs or crystals in the spray tank, or they separate into distinct layers. They're not worth mixing for practical and economical reasons, but there's still a question of crop safety that must be tested.

The likelihood of crop damage increases if each chemical in your tank mix requires different application conditions. Compare the instructions on each product to see if they can be applied in similar temperatures or times of day. If their instructions are consistent, spray just a few plants and wait a few days to observe the results. Proceed with spraying the entire crop with this tank mix if the test plants appear unharmed.

Cheers
DSD sends
 
Last edited:
Thank you for posting folks. It’s good to explore the broader implications of using hazardous chemicals as a hobbyist.

As a former professional, there are more important things to consider than “Will these chemicals mix safely together?.” prior to using/mixing toxic and/or hazardous chemicals.

Here are a few key questions a hobbyist should ask themselves before considering using/mixing any toxins and/or hazardous chemicals. i.e. “Will tow or more chemicals mix safely together”. (Can I do this?”

A. Why do I need to do this?

B. Are there known pests or pathogens present… that these chemicals are effective on, or is this “A shot in the dark”

C. What are the unintended consequences of using these chemicals? (Both immediate and longer term)

  1. to the user,
  2. to the trees or crops being sprayed (and the rhizosphere.)
  3. to children and pets
  4. to the environment
  5. of storing these chemicals on my property (how to safely store chemicals on a individuals property are rarely considered imho.)
D. How do I safely dispose of the unused portions of toxic and/or hazardous chemicals?

E. Compatibility - A final bit of information about “What compatibility means” (on these charts)

Take care not to confuse compatibility with crop safety.

When these charts indicate two insecticides or fungicides are compatible, it simply means they form a solution that can be easily sprayed. Incompatible solutions form globs or crystals in the spray tank, or they separate into distinct layers. They're not worth mixing for practical and economical reasons, but there's still a question of crop safety that must be tested.

The likelihood of crop damage increases if each chemical in your tank mix requires different application conditions. Compare the instructions on each product to see if they can be applied in similar temperatures or times of day. If their instructions are consistent, spray just a few plants and wait a few days to observe the results. Proceed with spraying the entire crop with this tank mix if the test plants appear unharmed.

Cheers
DSD sends
Hey DSD

This is something I have debated in my mind and gone back on fourth on mixing different Fungicides and Insecticides together. For a couple years, I would mix them together if it said it's okay after googling the answer. I've since decided to stop mixing chemicals together, but it does feel like a lot more effort to spray things separately and spraying is already my least favorite things to do. I may have experienced some light damage to the leaf's on a couple of my Ume from mixing chemicals, however I can't totally rule out that it's something else.


Few follow up questions for you:
-How long do many of these chemicals last? Is there a general rule of thumb for throwing them away after X number of years?

-How should we dispose of them properly?

-What are some best practices for storing chemicals?

-What are some best practices for protecting yourself when spraying?
Personally, I wear long sleeve clothes and pants along with a full face respirator with replaceable cartridges. I spray on non-windy days, then immediately put my clothes in the wash after spraying. What do you think about this process? If you get a full on jump suit for spraying, what do you do with it after you spray?

Really appreciate your response!
 
Sure is nice to not have to worry about all this crap when you have an organic garden based on good horticultural practices, rather than chemicals 😎
 
Sure is nice to not have to worry about all this crap when you have an organic garden based on good horticultural practices, rather than chemicals 😎
☝️

I was thinking the other day I might change my signature.
Nope. Totally applies here.
👇
 
Hey DSD

This is something I have debated in my mind and gone back on fourth on mixing different Fungicides and Insecticides together. For a couple years, I would mix them together if it said it's okay after googling the answer. I've since decided to stop mixing chemicals together, but it does feel like a lot more effort to spray things separately and spraying is already my least favorite things to do. I may have experienced some light damage to the leaf's on a couple of my Ume from mixing chemicals, however I can't totally rule out that it's something else.


Few follow up questions for you:
-How long do many of these chemicals last? Is there a general rule of thumb for throwing them away after X number of years?

The answer is it depends on the chemical and that lifetime of the hazardous chemical is often not listed, but often a long time. The issue is sometimes these chemicals degrade over time into something even worse. Most people that actually read SDS stop at the initial warnings, don’t even look at storage….

One universal rule. If one is not actively using a hazardous chemical, dispose of it. Lots of problems have occurred from folks accumulating hazardous chemicals they aren’t using.

For example for Malathion. Just for fun, look at the link in my first post on this thread for Malathion’s SDS and read Sections 7, 8, 10 and 11.
-How should we dispose of them properly?
Pack up the excess hazardous chemicals securely in something like a 5 gal bucket with sealable lid, then take to the nearest hazardous waste facility.

By regs counties are supposed to have a hazardous waste disposal facility, lots of bidder cities have a couple. In WA state there are lots, I‘m sure that’s similar in CA. Yet.sometimes it’s all the way across the county, sometimes there are multiple pop up / drop off staging areas.

Once we had to dispose of some non nuclear hazardous waste in Oak Ridge, TN (It wasn’t at the plant as they have their own.) The Haz Waste facility was closed, so the haz waste all had to be properly packed and sent to Knoxville,

Usually the SDS merely tells folks to dispose of contents/containers according to local, state and federal regulations. Ordinary Joe Q. Citizen is left to figure that out on his/her own…. And something not good can happen inadvertently due to lack of knowledge. Local and state folks are getting way better about this stuff.
-What are some best practices for storing chemicals?
These are the key points.
1. Cool
2. Well ventilated
3. Within secondary containment. (A container that will hold all the liquid waste in case it spills out accidentally… in our areas sifting ground…)
4. Out of the sunlight
5. Lockable or otherwise out of reach of children and pets.
Most folks can manage 1-4 and the latter half of #5. Yet it might mean moving things around.
-What are some best practices for protecting yourself when spraying?
Personally, I wear long sleeve clothes and pants along with a full face respirator with replaceable cartridges. I spray on non-windy days, then immediately put my clothes in the wash after spraying. What do you think about this process?
Pretty darn good start…
A couple other things to have when using haz chems…and one caution.​
1. Nitrile gloves.​
2. Boots like Wellies with pants on the outside.​
Caution: Having a respirator and cartridges is not enough. The cartridges have to match the hazard.​
A couple cartridges that are often used are:​

3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60923, 1 Pair, Helps Protect Against Organic Vapors, Acid Gases, and Particulates.

Also the 3M Organic Vapor Cartridge 6001 (Pair)

These do have lifetimes too. Read the instructions with each.

But don’t trust me, look it up!

If you get a full on jump suit for spraying, what do you do with it after you spray?
We often used Tyvek suits and (PAPR respirators at times) and the suits are pretty darn cheap, nowadays like 10.00. I used them on the job, but since I rarely use hazardous chemicals, mine is still in the wrapper.

Some folks washed these off and reused them during some jobs…. For me It would depend on the situation and hazard. Spraying haz chemicals presents a unique challenge for hazard control.
Really appreciate your response!
Thank you!

One question back. Are you precautionary spraying? If so what are the reasons for this at your site ? … I guess that was two q’s sorry.

cheers
DSD sends
 
The answer is it depends on the chemical and that lifetime of the hazardous chemical is often not listed, but often a long time. The issue is sometimes these chemicals degrade over time into something even worse. Most people that actually read SDS stop at the initial warnings, don’t even look at storage….

One universal rule. If one is not actively using a hazardous chemical, dispose of it. Lots of problems have occurred from folks accumulating hazardous chemicals they aren’t using.

For example for Malathion. Just for fun, look at the link in my first post on this thread for Malathion’s SDS and read Sections 7, 8, 10 and 11.

Pack up the excess hazardous chemicals securely in something like a 5 gal bucket with sealable lid, then take to the nearest hazardous waste facility.

By regs counties are supposed to have a hazardous waste disposal facility, lots of bidder cities have a couple. In WA state there are lots, I‘m sure that’s similar in CA. Yet.sometimes it’s all the way across the county, sometimes there are multiple pop up / drop off staging areas.

Once we had to dispose of some non nuclear hazardous waste in Oak Ridge, TN (It wasn’t at the plant as they have their own.) The Haz Waste facility was closed, so the haz waste all had to be properly packed and sent to Knoxville,

Usually the SDS merely tells folks to dispose of contents/containers according to local, state and federal regulations. Ordinary Joe Q. Citizen is left to figure that out on his/her own…. And something not good can happen inadvertently due to lack of knowledge. Local and state folks are getting way better about this stuff.

These are the key points.
1. Cool
2. Well ventilated
3. Within secondary containment. (A container that will hold all the liquid waste in case it spills out accidentally… in our areas sifting ground…)
4. Out of the sunlight
5. Lockable or otherwise out of reach of children and pets.
Most folks can manage 1-4 and the latter half of #5. Yet it might mean moving things around.

Pretty darn good start…
A couple other things to have when using haz chems…and one caution.​
1. Nitrile gloves.​
2. Boots like Wellies with pants on the outside.​
Caution: Having a respirator and cartridges is not enough. The cartridges have to match the hazard.​
A couple cartridges that are often used are:​

3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60923, 1 Pair, Helps Protect Against Organic Vapors, Acid Gases, and Particulates.

Also the 3M Organic Vapor Cartridge 6001 (Pair)

These do have lifetimes too. Read the instructions with each.

But don’t trust me, look it up!


We often used Tyvek suits and (PAPR respirators at times) and the suits are pretty darn cheap, nowadays like 10.00. I used them on the job, but since I rarely use hazardous chemicals, mine is still in the wrapper.

Some folks washed these off and reused them during some jobs…. For me It would depend on the situation and hazard. Spraying haz chemicals presents a unique challenge for hazard control.

Thank you!

One question back. Are you precautionary spraying? If so what are the reasons for this at your site ? … I guess that was two q’s sorry.

cheers
DSD sends

Is something like this + a shower not sufficient for someone mostly spraying monthly? I spray preventatively but outside of Spring fungicide have been debating moving to reactive only if not...

 
Hmm…. It all depends on which hazardous chemicals you are planning on spraying. Concentrations etc.

Anyways as a general question. This is a decent set up, good respirator, not my favorite googles type, but they are ok.

Given you use gloves, long sleeves shirt, hat and long pants and decent shoes or boots and spray in low wind conditions… seems ok.

Also: For others interested, these are the safety google types I use most. I do not wear glasses normally, for folks with glasses uvex has others.

And a good all around double thickness nitrile glove. Works better on bonsai jobs than any others I‘ve used. Toss after used with haz chems.

cheers
DSD sends
 
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