Large Cornus kousa-how to approach

Anyone want to take a stab?

Thinking about cutting back to stump, and reducing roots in dormancy.
 
wow, great looking roots and trunk. Sounds like you have a decent plan already. Hard to see, but maybe get rid of that thickest leader(maybe leave a bit for deadwood hollowed out limb?) and then get it down to three and cut those all back.
 
I'd cut it back just enough to get it home, hose off a bit of that nasty clay, then either plant it in an oversized container or heel it into a garden until next spring, at which time you can continue to remove the clay from the roots. Find a side of the root spread and a trunk line that has movement and taper, make more appropriate chops, then plant in an oversized container with good soil and let her grow.
 
Cool! Pretty much exactly as planned. Hoping it’s a freebie. I don’t think we’ll ever use this tree which is unfortunate in some ways, but awesome score for me!
 
Well tree is officially mine free of charge. I’ll keep updating this so hopefully people can tell me if I’m about to do something wrong and get some guidance.

Plan right now is to reduce top about 1/4, keeping enough foliage to keep it healthy for rest of season. I’ll remove some of the nursery soil, and minimal root prune. Remove nursery cage and put in a large pot/grow box.
 
So when I hear plant in good soil, I think a good soil in terms of landscape material.

What would you guys consider good soil for bonsai? Should I focus on the above for development, or invest in good bonsai type soil for this trees development?
 
Look around at soil threads.
You're going to want inorganic material.
Like D.E.,lava,pumice turface etc.
Stuff that doesnt break down over time.
You may be tempted to use akadama and that's totally up to you. It's expensive clay imported from Japan. Just know it breaks down after a while and needs total replacement.
 
Look around at soil threads.
You're going to want inorganic material.
Like D.E.,lava,pumice turface etc.
Stuff that doesnt break down over time.
You may be tempted to use akadama and that's totally up to you. It's expensive clay imported from Japan. Just know it breaks down after a while and needs total replacement.
So would that require bare rooting when I put in pot?
 
I would do this next spring.
Gotcha, so for now I will do as mentioned above and place in a pot until next spring.

For dogwood: is that something to do in dormancy (early spring), post flowering, or?

Should flowers be removed?
 
I'd place it right in the ground and attack everything at once. (Final chops, bareroot, root prune ,,, the works) that's just me. Messing around now before dormacy and again coming out of dormacy might not be the best approach. And that way you can study your best trunkline, and front until then.
 
Yeah, if I do much this year it’ll be minimal.

Should the major work be during or after dormancy ?
 
Get as much as you can of that clay out of there in spring just as the buds pop, but for that heavy pruning maybe experiment and see how it reacts to reductions at different times of the year. but awesome trunk and for nothing too! what a score
 
Do I need to seal the trunk where I cut down to?

Not really....but it CAN help the initial safe wound closing. Fill the hollow too?

Hows it going?

I was on a BS Wi-Fi when I saw this last!

Nice!

S
 
Ah ok I had thought that was for a different purpose. from what I know in my job I will pass on sealing and let it heal naturally.

Tree is no different as of now except i had put burlap on it for transport, removed the cage around root ball and it’s in my backyard. I’ll prune out dead branches but other than that I don’t think there’s much I should do this year and will wait for next early spring. Maybe transfer to a pot but I’m thinking just do that when I bareroot the tree. Ill cover with mulch for winter.

My main focus now will be mulling over if I want to make it one trunk or multi stemmed, and if the latter do I want to remove any and which ones.
 
Seal your chops.
Is the only reason you suggest so is to help healing process? Or is there another reason?

If it’s for healing process I will pass. It’s generally recommended against by arborists as it has little to no effect. It also potentially seals in fungal and bacterial problems. It’s a practice that’s on its way out in all but a few situations. This is supported by the ISA.
 
Is the only reason you suggest so is to help healing process? Or is there another reason?

If it’s for healing process I will pass. It’s generally recommended against by arborists as it has little to no effect. It also potentially seals in fungal and bacterial problems. It’s a practice that’s on its way out in all but a few situations. This is supported by the ISA.

And this was such a nice, non-controversial thread...tee hee hee
 
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