kishu juniper - in development?

WEI

Yamadori
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as a brief note, i should note that deciduous trees are my 'comfort tree,' in large part because i've always felt less intimidated in styling them. when it comes to drafting a 'vision of a tree,' I find it easier to imagine a finished product with something like a maple or hornbeam; full-grown versions of these species are much more common in cities/suburbia. it also helps that styling options are more limited. you usually can't make big bends in established deciduous trunks and branches. IMO, aside from grafting, major branch reduction (and just growing new branches/leaders), deciduous artistry is generally borne out by cumulative minor adjustments that add up to a sea change.

when it comes to junipers, though: kimura's magic is largely worked not on deciduous trees but on these for a reason. junipers' aesthetic versatility and amenability to radical change is peerless. they scare me because of just how many possibilities exist for each tree. my first juniper was a disaster. my second, a mame itoigawa with 5 tiny branches, was less of a trainwreck but was mentally taxing to restyle. I thought I'd just go with deciduous trees for the rest of my life, but then I realized I'd be making the same mistake with bonsai as I did with oil painting. I never learned how to properly paint people, and though I was pretty decent at landscapes and inanimate objects, I felt that dodging that fundamental challenge greatly detracted from my ability to infuse subtle emotion into art. it's been one of my major regrets, especially since I stopped painting - so never learning how to style a juniper became cardinal sin #2.

melodrama aside, i decided to acquire some nursery pre-bonsai to work on. so i made the 1.5 hour drive to meehan's, got myself a single juniper, drove back, and spent the rest of the day styling the tree. i set two major goals for myself: first, finish the styling in less than a day (i take pretty long to style), and second, create multiple potential fronts for the tree. some of my other work have one good-looking front and rather bad-looking sides/backs, but admirable trees in nature aren't beautiful from just one angle.

front and back of pre-bonsai as purchased:

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after styling: 1st is preferred front, 2nd is viable alternative. I need to practice jinning and carving as well; that long bare strip was unintentional, unfortunately, as a result of me pulling the bark off awkwardly (rookie mistake). potentially salvageable later.

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closer view. since i removed a lot of foliage + wired + jinned, I presume this tree won't tolerate any more insults (like repotting) for a while. the question is, how long? is repotting a 2025 thing now or a late summer 2024 thing?

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anyhow, that's my first real unstyled pre-bonsai stock to styled semi-bonsai material. I now have an itch to get more mature, larger material, which is an unfortunate itch for my wallet
 
I like it a lot. Nice triangles created with structural branch styling + foliage pads. I would be compelled to thicken the tree now either in ground or flat container, heavy feeding, more foliage etc. to fill the tree in, but long and slender as is, can also suit the tree.

As I understand, junipers can tolerate multiple insults in a year but there is also safety in limiting them. So, repotting in Spring 2025 guarantees safety, health, surviving repot at that time.

Either upright position (as you have now) or leaning over to one side (maybe to the right) for a literati are options for repotting and styling, especially since the trunk is long and elegant. If right-leaning literati, then tweaks to wiring and pads can be made (no longer locked into the standard triangle apexes styling) as you would be free to do so.

In either case, I like an unglazed round pot for this tree’s future. A soft/light blue would stand out but you have many options.
 
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Great job. I like option 1 due to the subtle showing of the unintended deadwood which looks natural. But both look good. I think front 2 has more "attitude" somehow. The front will really be determined by the roots so hopefully they align with your front.
 
As far as repotting goes, it depends on the current condition of the soil and roots - and what kind of repotting you intend to do. Since this is a pre-bonsai from Meehan's it may already be in an inorganic mix, and the roots may be in good shape, in which case a repot would be far less stressful to the tree than if it were root-bound in organic soil. Also - are you planning on repotting it and keeping it in the same size pot? Or are you intending to heavily prune the roots and move it into a bonsai pot?

Late March in Virginia is not too late. You can always provide shade protection if we find ourselves in hot spell.
 
the tree is as nursery stock as they come, in organic soil, so no repot for now.
As far as repotting goes, it depends on the current condition of the soil and roots - and what kind of repotting you intend to do. Since this is a pre-bonsai from Meehan's it may already be in an inorganic mix, and the roots may be in good shape, in which case a repot would be far less stressful to the tree than if it were root-bound in organic soil. Also - are you planning on repotting it and keeping it in the same size pot? Or are you intending to heavily prune the roots and move it into a bonsai pot?

Late March in Virginia is not too late. You can always provide shade protection if we find ourselves in hot spell.
the plan is to heavily prune roots + move into a bonsai pot.
 
Nice work. That'll look really good in the right kind of pot, maybe a low nanban to lean into the emptiness of it. I also like the strip of removed bark as the start of some shari running down the trunk
 
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i should note that deciduous trees are my 'comfort tree
Big word of caution. You are accustom to …
…the plan is to heavily prune roots + move into a bonsai pot.
I have one or two shimpakus from Meehans. We’re in very organic soil.
Next time while the foliage is abundant and the runners are shooting out
(a little later than now), begin the initial transition to inorganic bonsai soil
taking more from the shin with each subsequent repot.
It is common for folks that are deciduous savvy to overdo the roots on conifers.
The more foliage you have, the higher your repot success percentage will be.
I am very comfortable in zone 6b to wait till nearly last possible frost date of May 10th here to work the roots.
 
Continuing your accidental deadwood down the trunk will allow your 2 live veins to really thicken up and round out as the tree grows

Other than that I like it, I really didn't want to cos I wanted to advise you to lose your deciduous thinking and twist and bend the trunk, but it's actually got a nice movement to it so fair play!
 
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You won't be disappointed by waiting to repot next spring, but honestly you didn't remove nearly enough foliage to stress the tree so a repot this year wouldn't adversely affect the tree. A half-bareroot repot is how I'd begin transitioning it out of organic soil.

When your wallet recovers and you've gotten back to the nursery for your next foray, one way to aid the tree's recovery is to leave the tips a bit longer on the branches. The tree won't have as refined a silhouette, but it drives root growth and backbudding that you can cut back to in late-spring or summer.
 
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