Just a few maples

[MapleGuru]

All of my maples are still in early development. All are grown in nursery pots, on top of a tile, and then placed in a raised garden bed so the roots can grow into the ground. Unfortunately, I have moved them each year(no repotting just moved) and cutting the roots has hindered their growth. (I vaguely remember reading somewhere that if you cut roots back just as buds were opening in the spring, you didn't hinder growth). After a couple of years of doing exactly that, I do believe it does harm growth. This past year was the last time I moved them. So they will be in place for the next 2-3 years before removing them and cutting back roots.

I have close to 50 trees. I don't count anymore. I just baby and talk to them just like any other normal bonsai person.

this is just a small sampling:
Sango Kaku Nishiki Gawa Nishiki GawaRootoverRock Trident trident

Sango Kaku and Nishiki Gawas were air layered from a mother tree. Tridents were started as 1 yr old seedlings.

 

[defra]

Nice !
I dont fully understand this method tough
Why the pots?
Why not spread the roots on the tile in the ground without the pot ?

I can imagine the roots will spread untill they reach the pot amd go straight down from there on and to the side again after ther reach the tile

Please explain

 

[MapleGuru]

Nice !
I dont fully understand this method tough
Why the pots?
Why not spread the roots on the tile in the ground without the pot ?

I can imagine the roots will spread untill they reach the pot amd go straight down from there on and to the side again after ther reach the tile

Please explain

You don't have to use pots. I did because I thought it would be easier to cut a few roots that grow out of the pot instead of having to dig the whole thing up........whenever the time came to put into a bonsai pot. Also, my trees(about 50 total) are growing in two 4ft x 8ft raised garden beds. If I planted my trees in there on a tile(without a pot), the roots of adjacent trees may grow together making extraction a real problem. Sure I could have sectioned my garden off somehow, but it just seemed easier to use nursery pots.

Hope that helps and thanks for your question.

 

[Giga]

Damn I want that root over rock trident - willing to sell it or trade?

 

[defra]

Thnx for the reply
Roots growing trough eachother wil not be a big of a deal you think !

The year before collection in the spring chop with a spade trough the roots from all sides of the tree( if you want to collect 2018 chop roots in spring 2017)
This way the tree will use the season to form new feeder roots closer to the base makeing potting up next season easier

But i understand your thinking but question the way the roots spread will be good in the pots but you are going to prove that after you got them out and share pics with us !

One more question
Since the pots are buried how wet does the soil stay cus the drainage holes are in the ground?

 

[MapleGuru]

Thnx for the reply
Roots growing trough eachother wil not be a big of a deal you think !

The year before collection in the spring chop with a spade trough the roots from all sides of the tree( if you want to collect 2018 chop roots in spring 2017)
This way the tree will use the season to form new feeder roots closer to the base makeing potting up next season easier

But i understand your thinking but question the way the roots spread will be good in the pots but you are going to prove that after you got them out and share pics with us !

One more question
Since the pots are buried how wet does the soil stay cus the drainage holes are in the ground?

Very good questions. I know of the technique you speak of.........chopping around the tree a year before you plan to harvest it. But I did not know how extensive the roots would grow downwards and whether this technique would be easier than pots. I guess I should have tried both methods because now I have no way to figure it which is best.

I think pots will produce enough root spread. They are in 3 gallon pots. But you are correct.........only way to know for sure is to wait and see.

I plant my trees in a very fast draining soil. The bottom of the pot has about 1.25cm of leaves and pinestraw so the holes do not get blocked. It's a mixture of regular(store bought) potting soil, Turface MVP, and pine bark nuggets. I get the Turface MVP from an irrigation company here in Augusta(its used on baseball fields)......$8.50 for 50lb bag. I get the pine bark nuggets from Lowe's or Home Depot. I do not measure the amounts of each. Its probably 50% soil, 25% turface and 25% bark. Also, the raised bed soil has been amended with bark and turface too, but just much much less of it.

 

[MapleGuru]

Damn I want that root over rock trident - willing to sell it or trade?

Always willing to make a deal. Its probably 10 years old. Roots got crossed and then grew together forming an ugly mess on the front. It needs someone with a Midas touch.

 

[defra]

Cool wel please share when you get some out of the pot cus im interested in the result
Whats your hardines zone ?
Its good to put that in your profile so if you need advice people can see what zone your in

 

[MapleGuru]

Cool wel please share when you get some out of the pot cus im interested in the result
Whats your hardines zone ?
Its good to put that in your profile so if you need advice people can see what zone your in

Im in zone 8. Thanks for your help.

 

[RichKid]

Sango Kaku and Nishiki Gawas were air layered from a mother tree. Tridents were started as 1 yr old seedlings.[/QUOTE]

Ive tried for the last three years to layer a sangu kaku. I had given up. I thought they were one of the varieties that didn't take well. What method steps and materials did you use?

 

[MapleGuru]

Sango Kaku and Nishiki Gawas were air layered from a mother tree. Tridents were started as 1 yr old seedlings.

Ive tried for the last three years to layer a sangu kaku. I had given up. I thought they were one of the varieties that didn't take well. What method steps and materials did you use?[/QUOTE]

This one hasn't done done so well. The mother died shortly afterwards. The air layer has survived for several years(maybe 5-6 years?), but it struggles.

I made a cut around the tree, then another one about 1 inch lower. I spread rooting hormone all over the wound then used sphagnum moss(about the size of your fist) to encompass the wound and then secured it with saran wrap and cheap wire. Then I just kept it moist until I started to see roots which was probably 2 months later.

 

[M. Frary]

The year before collection in the spring chop with a spade trough the roots from all sides of the tree( if you want to collect 2018 chop roots in spring 2017)
This way the tree will use the season to form new feeder roots closer to the base makeing potting up next season easier

Instead of all that why not just dig it up then put it in a colander?
Less time. More feeder roots.

 

[defra]

Instead of all that why not just dig it up then put it in a colander?
Less time. More feeder roots.

Yes you are probably right
but my tought/concern is then after a couple years in the ground the roots might be to long to fit a collander ?

I dont have much ground growing and collection experience thats why this topic got my interest so i will be well prepared if the time comes to dig out some if the grow out projects i have

 

[M. Frary]

Yes you are probably right
but my tought/concern is then after a couple years in the ground the roots might be to long to fit a collander

Cut them to fit.
Deciduous trees can take a tremendous amount of cutting back. Unlike coniferous trees. You'll chop the trunk at the same time so it all balances out.
Do it as buds swell but before they're open.
A year in a colander and you will have a root was like you've never seen.

 

[sorce]

Truth is....

There's 1001 ways to grow out a tree.
And 1,001 trees that are going to turn out perfect if each matched with the right method.

The chances of getting each matched with the right technique is impossible.

So use your method.
And keep observing.

It's all we can do.

Sorce

 

[RKatzin]

Just get them to grow however you can. You'll be removing most of the roots when you're ready to proceed anyway.
In pots I try to stay just ahead of the roots with the potting up. If you want them to keep growing. I pot them in what size fits the tree. I let it grow unrestricted till it fills the pot with roots. Then I cut the roots back and put it back in the same pot. Once the pot is full again I pot up to a size I can spread the roots out in, usually a lower, wider container. The trees are now pushing an inch at the base and will be chopped and development begun. I am doing this to make a lot of trees for forest plantings. There's about fifty in various stages. I can get pics up in the morning.
On the coralbark, I have had excellent success by taking shoots in early spring, as soon as I see the buds begin to swell, and planting them straight into whatever potting mix is handy. I've gone right into the garden with them, but it gets a bit much for them as it gets into summer.

 

[thumblessprimate1]

I'd get the Nishikigawa roots worked on next year, and then regularly. Not only do they need to have good nebari, they'll need good looking bark on their nebari. Consider small branch airlayers this year.

 

[leatherback]

Not only do they need to have good nebari, they'll need good looking bark on their nebari.

I have two young nishiki gawa (2 year old grafts). Do you have some bark shots of yours? Woud love to see how mind should look when barked up. And yes, I will ayer them when they get a bit more meat on the branches.

 

[LanceMac10]

 

[thumblessprimate1]