Juniper Repot

[nurvbonsai]

Hi everyone, I was hoping for feedback on my first attempt at repotting a juniper that I did in a workshop last year. I was encouraged by parties to go ahead the last week of February. Initially styled in a one gallon container, nothing quite prepared me for how stressful it was on me, let alone how the tree might respond. Given its initial home in the latter; i got to reduce the root ball in order to place the tree in its new container.
I believe it’s not as secured with wire as it could be. Could the rootball be reduced further given the mound? I’m stressed about it.

I’m sure others here could offer experience, strength and hope on more will be revealed.

Looking forward to the responses.

What say you? Thank you much. I plan on taking it into a nursery to see what could further be done. THANKS. Anxiety

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

It is potted too high, necessitating mounding the soil. Soil should be about level with the rim of the pot, otherwise it’s just going to wash out when you water it. On the plus side, it appears you did anchor it to the pot, and are using a decent mix for junipers.

It’s also a bit early to start repotting. I’m hoping to delay any repotting another 3 weeks or so.

 

[nurvbonsai]

It is potted too high, necessitating mounding the soil. Soil should be about level with the rim of the pot, otherwise it’s just going to wash out when you water it. On the plus side, it appears you did anchor it to the pot, and are using a decent mix for junipers.

It’s also a bit early to start repotting. I’m hoping to delay any repotting another 3 weeks or so.

So that would entail pulling it back out and doing some work on the root ball? Is that dangerous to do? Thanks

 

[Ruddigger]

If you just did it today you should be okay to fix it.

 

[Shibui]

I remember the anxiety of first repots but that wears off as you discover it actually works.

It is a bit hard to guess how much root mass has already been removed so difficult to recommend whether further reduction is advised. Sometimes it is better to do the necessary reduction over a couple of years rather than all in one.
In general, removing half the existing roots is no problem at all. Removing 2/3 is OK and experienced growers will take off 3/4 with no problem. Junipers are one of the groups that we don't go too hard all at once.

It takes a few weeks for new roots to start growing so a second repot is no problem within a week or so.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

So that would entail pulling it back out and doing some work on the root ball? Is that dangerous to do? Thanks

You might dump the soil into a pan, untie the tree, hold it upside down and use a chopstick to remove more (most) of the old soil from the bottom of the rootball, all the way up to the bottom of the trunk. If there is a lot of old soil there, you may not have to remove a lot of roots, just try to spread/flatten them out. Then tie it back into the container and work the new soil back in very well.

 

[nurvbonsai]

Thanks Brian. This is what I worked on today. It’s less of a mound and more flat like you mentioned.

 

[nurvbonsai]

Root ball before re-repotting.

 

[nurvbonsai]

I used my chopstick to remove as much soil as humanly possible I feel without interfering with the structural integrity of the roots. It’s my understanding that despite our best intention some elements of the old soil will still be present. Is this correct? Thanks

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Much better.

 

[Shibui]

I used my chopstick to remove as much soil as humanly possible I feel without interfering with the structural integrity of the roots. It’s my understanding that despite our best intention some elements of the old soil will still be present. Is this correct? Thanks

You've done a good job on this one. That's probably enough for one year but, in future, you will probably be able to go in further and remove some more of the old soil because it will be easier next time and you will have more confidence and experience.
Some old soil left doesn't usually cause problems.

 

[nurvbonsai]

You've done a good job on this one. That's probably enough for one year but, in future, you will probably be able to go in further and remove some more of the old soil because it will be easier next time and you will have more confidence and experience.
Some old soil left doesn't usually cause problems.

Thank you. I don’t plan on doing anything more to it now but I was just curious as the tree hopefully settles into new pot, at what point do you suggest removing wire and seeing how the tree responds to initial styling from last year

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Thank you. I don’t plan on doing anything more to it now but I was just curious as the tree hopefully settles into new pot, at what point do you suggest removing wire and seeing how the tree responds to initial styling from last year

Remove the wire when the bark is beginning to swell around it. The wire will begin to look buried, and you want to remove it before it is 50% buried. Junipers will grow heavily in April-May, and put on some new wood through the summer, so anything applied between fall and now should be fine for 6-12 months.

In many cases, it will be necessary to wire it again after a period of rest.

 

[Shibui]

Thank you. I don’t plan on doing anything more to it now but I was just curious as the tree hopefully settles into new pot, at what point do you suggest removing wire and seeing how the tree responds to initial styling from last year

I've found junipers surprisingly quick to set. Thin, immature wood can set in just a few weeks but I still like to leave the wires on a it longer than that to be safe.
Older, thicker branches takes a bit longer but usually set after a summer of growth.
I prefer to remove wires well before they mark the bark. As soon as I see the branch growing around any part of any wire the lot comes off. I always check all wired parts because some parts seem to thicken quicker than others. Close to branch crotches seems to grow quickest so look carefully.
If you leave wires until 50% buried some sections might be 70 or 80% buried and then its hard to remove wires without lifting the bark and damaging branches. In some cases some wire cannot be removed without debarking the branch.
Sometimes it's a bit hard to decide whether the wire is getting really tight or not. Someone here described it as 'if the side of the wire closest to the bark looks flat it's time to remove'
Depending how many trees you are developing it can be hard to keep track of trees with wire. It's not so hard if the entire tree is wired but when only one small branch has wire it's easy to overlook. Even easier to overlook if the wires are thinner and more difficult to see. Quite a few times I've found trees that I had forgotten had wire on. I've seen some growers tie coloured ribbons on wired trees to remind themselves.