Japanese Maple Ground Layering or Tourniquet Advice

[Africanherbman]

Hello all,

I'd like some advice on this tree. As you can see, there are 2 pretty bad inverse taper spots on the lower trunk. I was thinking of ground layering or using the tourniquet method on it to fix this and get a nice nebari at the same time.

So a few questions. Where would you do this, I was thinking either right below that first branch on the right and turn the tree into a twin trunk style, or right above that branch. If I do it above the branch and I take the branch off now, would the wound be a problem after I cover it with substrate? How long should I wait if I do that before I start ground layering or tourniquet process?

Is there a best time to perform either processes? Now a good time?

I have read that ground layering would be faster than the tourniquet method without cutting the bark. How much faster would it be? Would cutting the bark be riskier for the trees health?

I would also welcome any other suggestions and advice on this tree.





Thanks!

 

[Shibui]

No indication of where in the world you are so it is hard to say if now is a good time for anything. It pays to add a location to your profile so we can see whether to talk about north or south hemisphere, desert, tundra or tropical jungle.

Personally i would not other to layer this tree at all. It is still quite immature and has few redeeming features that could be used as is.
Definitely not twin trunk at the lower fork. The t trunks do not really look attractive together IMHO and are unlikely to improve as the tree grows and thickens. The second fork is more attractive but still very thin so a long way tto go to create good bonsai from that area.
My preference would be to grow this tree much thicker and hope that some of the lumps and awkward angles look better after it is thicker. It is amazing how trees change as they grow and many ugly ducklings have turned into beautiful bonsai as they get larger (of course some just stay ugly)
Apologies for the frank and rather negative assessment of this tree. My intention is not to make you feel bad, just to point out some reality - not all trees look good (which you already seem to know) and not all can be fixed easily. Sometimes it is better to throw in the towel and start again with better material. Trees like this do make great practice and can be used for experimental work with new techniques.

Removing the lower branch and then covering the wound with soil will not be a problem. Remember we usually intentionally create a wound (ring bark) when we layer. Roots will grow from the wounded area as it tries to heal up under the soil.
Tourniquet relies on the tree growing thicker until the wire cuts off circulation before roots grow. That takes time depending on how fast the tree is thickening. Normal layering cuts off sap flow right away by removing bark so healing starts immediately and roots should follow soon. That means a much quicker result.
As far as risk, both methods have risk but both also have very good success rates so probably little difference in risk or success rates between the 2 methods.

 

[Africanherbman]

Location updated. No worries, please be frank.

 

[Shibui]

Now we know it is spring in your area - the leaves on the tree appeared to indicate that but best not to take appearances for granted.

Spring is a good time to do any layering. I get better results delaying until the leaves have opened a little more than the photo shows - maybe 2-3 weeks more? Others may have different opinions and experience and it may vary according to local climate or how the procedure is done but active growth appears to foster rapid root development so spring is usually favored time for layers.

 

[Africanherbman]

Now we know it is spring in your area - the leaves on the tree appeared to indicate that but best not to take appearances for granted.

Spring is a good time to do any layering. I get better results delaying until the leaves have opened a little more than the photo shows - maybe 2-3 weeks more? Others may have different opinions and experience and it may vary according to local climate or how the procedure is done but active growth appears to foster rapid root development so spring is usually favored time for layers.

You said earlier that the tree may be too immature to layer. Does a more mature tree increase success rate? Or did you mean to just wait a bit to see how the tree develops before I make a decision?

Also, if I do decide to layer it at the second fork like you suggested, would it help the parts I want to thicken up faster by removing that lower branch to redirect the growth this year before layering?

 

[Shibui]

Reference to immature is just that I don't see any point taking time to layer a very small tree of dubious quality. Far quicker and easier to look for another tree with better prospects IMHO. Pretty sure the tree will layer if you want to go ahead. Tourniquet could take a full year, sometimes longer, to produce enough roots to separate. Ring bark should produce roots in 2-3 months but it will then be another full year before the new tree is strong enough to do any real pruning or styling. Much quicker to find a tree with potential and get straight into it.

One advantage of layering is you can end up with 2 trees from 1. If you leave the lower branch and layer at the upper fork you should get 2 trees. Chop the remaining trunk just above the lower branch and plant it in a bigger pot or in the garden and let it grow much thicker. It might just develop into something worth while? You will also have the upper section to develop as a twin trunk or it could be pruned to a single trunk.

At this stage there is not enough substance to really define the shape and style of this tree as real bonsai. Some people are happy with a skinny maple tree in a pot with no real attractive trunk lines or branching. If that's how you see bonsai you can just trim occasionally and leave it as is.

 

[0soyoung]

I agree that it is too soon / too young.
Nevertheless, many maple enthusiasts split a small pot and place it on the ground, around the graft union and fill it with soil. As long as you leave space for the root stock roots to get air directly, this can be left in place more or less indefinitely. The point is that a large number of cultivars will root from the union doing nothing more. Further, many will root if one does this to a node.

So, if there is a low node, just above the graft, try putting a pot of soil around it, if you are wanting to 'do something'. It will not risk the health of your tree, again, as long as you leave the mother roots open to air and water.

Otherwise, heed the prior advice.

 

[Africanherbman]

I've got a couple other trees to work on in the meantime. You are right I am itching to "do something" but I guess I'll wait till next year. Am planning on layering it at that upper fork as suggested and retaining the lower part as another tree. Any other suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks guys!