Japanese maple development tips

[ScottNYC]

I have a Japanese maple, not sure the direction I wanna go with it (prolly broom or informal) but regardless I have to remove some branching at the top to undo this reverse taper I have going on. Not sure which side or parts to remove at the top. If any ideas how to proceed would be appreciated, thx

 

[Forsoothe!]

Rots o ruck. Your photos are insufficient to make any kind of informed judgement. Don't do anything rash untill all the leaves have fallen off so you can clearly see what's there to save and what's superfluous. Then, take photos of the view thru at eyeball level from 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315 & 360°, and one shot in plan view (straight down from the top) making 0°. Format them 5" tall and 116 dpi and upload them. Then you'll get a boatload of suggestions.

 

[ScottNYC]

Rots o ruck. Your photos are insufficient to make any kind of informed judgement. Don't do anything rash untill all the leaves have fallen off so you can clearly see what's there to save and what's superfluous. Then, take photos of the view thru at eyeball level from 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315 & 360°, and one shot in plan view (straight down from the top) making 0°. Format them 5" tall and 116 dpi and upload them. Then you'll get a boatload of suggestions.

ok, will do, thx

 

[Tidal Bonsai]

Another thing to consider is an air layer on the tree. The trunk seems to be really tall, and pretty straight until the top quarter. Air layering can compact the tree, give you a perfect nebari, and maybe even give you a little more movement if you cut on an angle.

Just my 2c

 

[ScottNYC]

Another thing to consider is an air layer on the tree. The trunk seems to be really tall, and pretty straight until the top quarter. Air layering can compact the tree, give you a perfect nebari, and maybe even give you a little more movement if you cut on an angle.

Just my 2c

thats a good idea, i didn't consider that. thx

 

[Forsoothe!]

If all that was wrong with this tree was Too Tall Jones, that would be a blessing. The upper tree is a tragedy of too many branches in a cluster, the core of which is a continuation of more of the same long trunk. It's going to take some skill and judgement figuring out how transition from a trunk to several branches, which at this moment looks like that will involve a huge scar in the center of that transition point. Right now this is a lollipop that has leaves hiding the whorl of chopped upper branches and their children. This tree is as good as it's ever going to be unless a small miracle can be preformed.

 

[K_10_G]

I second the air layer option. As is cleaning that to a desirable smooth trunk line will take years. I would layer the whole thing as close to that whorl as possible. Then develop a clump style so you won’t need to take too many branches off. Here’s a timeline . This fall as the leaves drop remove any of the “trunks“ you do not want in the clump. Referring to the numbered picture above I would take out 3, 7, 5, & 8. And then in the canopy any of those junctions that look like sling shots remove one side. Next year airlayer in late may early June . Should be able to remove in September after summer dormancy. when the leaves drop, cut extend shoots back to 3 pairs of buds( you can also add a bit of wire if you are careful )

 

[QuantumSparky]

+1 for air layering. I am considering doing that on my maple. I recently chopped it and it exploded with new shoots so I'm happy with the options up top but the trunk is still a bit straight for my liking.

If it were my tree, and just because I'm not the biggest fan of clump style, I'd do both a trunk chop and an air layer. 100% personal preference on that though, as I love maples with strong single trunks in an informal upright form. This is mine after the chop and before it covered itself in shoots and becoming completely un-photographable



Trunk is way too straight and the single surface root is boring. Gonna air layer next season probably so I can repot once it takes

 

[Shibui]

It's going to take some skill and judgement figuring out how transition from a trunk to several branches, which at this moment looks like that will involve a huge scar in the center of that transition point.

Unfortunately I believe that @Forsoothe! is correct here. In my experience with JM reduction pruning of cluster branches often just aggravates the thickening and makes the problem a whole lot worse.
Difficult to offer better suggestions without a really good loom at the tree and the trunk and branches but hoping you can find some way round the problems.

 

[ScottNYC]

If all that was wrong with this tree was Too Tall Jones, that would be a blessing. The upper tree is a tragedy of too many branches in a cluster, the core of which is a continuation of more of the same long trunk. It's going to take some skill and judgement figuring out how transition from a trunk to several branches, which at this moment looks like that will involve a huge scar in the center of that transition point. Right now this is a lollipop that has leaves hiding the whorl of chopped upper branches and their children. This tree is as good as it's ever going to be unless a small miracle can be preformed.
View attachment 390520

lol

 

[Forsoothe!]

You need to remember that the game is never over until the fat lady sings. While uncharacteristic of maples/maple design, deadwood is an option that could "use up" much of what is not otherwise useful instead of the dead space of absent branches. That's not my forte, but others here may be helpful.

 

[leatherback]

Remove the medusa head on top. Either through layering if you want to create a clump (Make sure you cut the back also at the bottom of the branches, so do not layer too low), or with a saw just lop it off.

When you have some strong new leader established, gring awary the cut area, smooth it out and let the leader run of 1-2 years and you are on your way.

 

[ScottNYC]

heres a different angle, what about making this branch new leader?

 

[Shibui]

That lower branch is from the inside of a bend so will create a more awkward bend if the existing trunk is taken off. Try it yourself by masking out the main trunk with cloth and trying to imagine the new trunk line then add branching in your mind. One good thing about that possible chop is that the roots are currently high on the opposite side which gives good scope to tilt the whole trunk away from that new leader which may make the new bend much easier to design around.
Don't be fooled that such a chop will produce a quick result. JM can be slow to develop and scars close quite slowly in most cases. I would allow min 10 years to redevelop a new trunk, branching and apex after such a chop. There are also many pitfalls through the process that could spoil the result. Sometimes a trunk chop is worth it but sometimes the result is no better than the previous options.

 

[Maiden69]

I agree with the change in angle to try to use that branch as a new leader. I would chop it, work the roots, find the best angle possible and plant it in the grown or a rootpouch for a few years. I think late winter-early spring would be a good time. The tree could be angled more depending on the roots when you work them.