Japanese Maple Biochar Trial

Definitely requires more fertilizer than my pumice/Organics mix, but to make things simple in my pot-n-look trial I fertilized everything the same.

I saw the water holding capacity as better than pure pumice, but less than a mix with an organic component, I water everything the same.

It’ll probably be a couple of years before I repot to see if there are any differences in root structure.
Thanks!
I'm finding this terribly fascinating for some reason. Please, keep the updates coming.
 
Definitely requires more fertilizer than my pumice/Organics mix, but to make things simple in my pot-n-look trial I fertilized everything the same.

I saw the water holding capacity as better than pure pumice, but less than a mix with an organic component, I water everything the same.

It’ll probably be a couple of years before I repot to see if there are any differences in root structure.
What would be an interesting next trial is to adjust watering and fert to the seemingly different needs of the different planting media and see how each do when their characteristics are “catered to”.
e.g. giving it more fert if it can use it well, or seeing if there is a better water/oxygen balance that would be found if you were willing to adjust that in direct catering to the charcoal mix.
 
I’ve been pondering biochar and a few other mixe
And I have 100 or so JP whips/seedlings that need repoting and better soil.

hmmmmm
 
There has been a lot of research on biochar in agriculture and forestry. The usual recommendation for container grown plants is 10% biochar. I did my own test a few years ago with basil cuttings in 0%, 10%, 25%, and 50% biochar and potting soil. Not enough plants to rigorously compare growth rate and size, but 10% and 25% were somewhat larger with more branching than plain potting mix. The 50% plants all died, i suspect from high pH.

In my bonsai and other potted plants I use no more than 10%. I don't grow any acidophiles, and my irrigation water is about pH 7.8.
 
There has been a lot of research on biochar in agriculture and forestry. The usual recommendation for container grown plants is 10% biochar. I did my own test a few years ago with basil cuttings in 0%, 10%, 25%, and 50% biochar and potting soil. Not enough plants to rigorously compare growth rate and size, but 10% and 25% were somewhat larger with more branching than plain potting mix. The 50% plants all died, i suspect from high pH.

In my bonsai and other potted plants I use no more than 10%. I don't grow any acidophiles, and my irrigation water is about pH 7.8.
same here!. I have been using my soil with 10% biochar. It works well for me.
Thụ Thoại
 
For the past couple of years, I've collected charcoal from an outdoor fire pit, soaked it in water, and sifted it between 1/8" and 1/4". I've planted shimpaku, Japanese black pine, and Japanese maples in equal parts charcoal, turface, and perlite. I can't tell much difference between the ones planted in this and the ones planted in equal parts pine bark, turface, and perlite.

My original reasoning for trying this was to have an organic component that doesn't break down. I'm not saying it's a good idea - it's just something I've been fooling around with.
 
All fertilizer and pesticides have been the same

What are these?

I have been studying and I'm fittin' to start a Biochar For Real thread.

I want to activate, pun fully intended, these 3 threads on the subject, in an effort to invite the participants to a unified discussion where we can communally put BS to rest.

Thank You!

Sorce
 
Please to our unified discussion.


Cheers.

Sorce
 
For the past couple of years, I've collected charcoal from an outdoor fire pit, soaked it in water, and sifted it between 1/8" and 1/4". I've planted shimpaku, Japanese black pine, and Japanese maples in equal parts charcoal, turface, and perlite. I can't tell much difference between the ones planted in this and the ones planted in equal parts pine bark, turface, and perlite.

My original reasoning for trying this was to have an organic component that doesn't break down. I'm not saying it's a good idea - it's just something I've been fooling around with.

Not biochar but interesting all the same, I'm always down for free soil :)
 
Not biochar but interesting all the same, I'm always down for free soil :)
Biochar is not the same as charcoal. Charcoal is created by roasting wood at around 400 C, while Biochar is done at over 600 C. Has higher porosity than charcoal and a lower pH. It is meant to be a supplement/amendment to your substrate, NOT a substrate.

 
Biochar is not the same as charcoal. Charcoal is created by roasting wood at around 400 C, while Biochar is done at over 600 C. Has higher porosity than charcoal and a lower pH. It is meant to be a supplement/amendment to your substrate, NOT a substrate.


That's why I said "Not Biochar" lol. I've made it myself before. The person I replied to said charcoal as well, not biochar.
 
I read the comment you quoted. I meant to add that charcoal was not a good substrate, but just mentioned biochar. I mean it will hold water, I guess like any piece of wood would, but it doesn't have the same structure biochar has in order to provide the benefits.
 
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