Japanese Maple Air Layer

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
This JM is in the front yard of a family home that belonged to my grandparents. My mother gave it to them as a stick in a pot before I was born, and it's been right where they planted it ever since. For years now, it's been cramming itself up into the eaves, becoming dense at the top and shading out lower branches. It's clearly overdue for a serious cut back, so I decided to air layer a branch off first (I may start others as well) and get my own piece of family history :)

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
The buds seem just about to pop, so I think the timing is good. I'll update as it develops.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,912
Reaction score
45,593
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
Technique too! Nice!

If I may. I would chop that large side off now, so it can heal with full root power.

And on the others....... Not that branch since its already layered below.......but I would find a place (white line) where you have more movement and taper already, cut the big stuff off this year, heal for a year, and make the layer next year.

I think this is the fastest way to good material, training branches on full in ground trees, fastest development!

You have an excellent opportunity to take full advantage of the situation!

Sweet!

Sorce
2015-03-08_05.30.29.jpg
 

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
Thanks Sorce.
I was actually thinking about whether to do any pruning or not, and my initial idea was that the maximum amount of foliage above the layer would lead to stronger roots faster. Your point about healing cuts with a full in-ground root system is well taken though. Like most things, there are trade-offs . . .
 

fraser67

Shohin
Messages
354
Reaction score
96
Location
Los Angeles
USDA Zone
PST
That should yield a pretty nice start to a JM. Curious ...why not a little higher, closer to the "Y"?
 

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
That should yield a pretty nice start to a JM. Curious ...why not a little higher, closer to the "Y"?
That's a good question; I'm not sure. It just seemed like a good place.
Now that I have time to stare at it, lot's of design considerations are floating around. Do I really want to keep both trunks (the original plan), or can I achieve nice taper quickly just keeping a bit of the right one and completely removing the other (as Sorce suggested)? Also, as you suggested, if I'm going the twin trunk route perhaps the new soil line should be near where they split . . .
Design twice, layer once!
 

mj_barb

Mame
Messages
100
Reaction score
173
Location
Fairfax, VA
USDA Zone
7A
Good stuff! Looks like you'll get a nice start to a bonsai in addition to cleaning up the parent tree. My grandparents have 3 JMs on their property I'd love to AL as a family keepsake. Please post pics in the future!
 

drew33998

Masterpiece
Messages
2,033
Reaction score
1,286
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
USDA Zone
8-9
I have noticed when I air layer JM's that I need to take a good bit of the sap wood off as well. It isn't enough for me to just "scrape" the sap wood to get the remaining sugars off. I have found that the area where the sap wood is will pop out callusing in random spots as well as the cambium on the cut sites. Might be different for you in your area. This year I am going to really "whittle" the sap wood down a good bit more. Not talking tooth pick size or anything just a lot more than just scraping it clean.
 

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
I have noticed when I air layer JM's that I need to take a good bit of the sap wood off as well. It isn't enough for me to just "scrape" the sap wood to get the remaining sugars off. I have found that the area where the sap wood is will pop out callusing in random spots as well as the cambium on the cut sites. Might be different for you in your area. This year I am going to really "whittle" the sap wood down a good bit more. Not talking tooth pick size or anything just a lot more than just scraping it clean.
Thanks for the tip; I was wondering a bit about this. I think maybe I should check in there in a couple of weeks to see if it's trying to heal.
When you layer JMs in Florida, do you start before bud break like this, or later in the season, and how long is it typically before you can separate?
 

drew33998

Masterpiece
Messages
2,033
Reaction score
1,286
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
USDA Zone
8-9
I start either right before bud-break, or when the leaves harden off. Sometimes at bud break the tree has too much going on. I have been successful doing it both ways. As far as how long before you can separate, that is dependent upon the species. I have a tagged Japanese Maple "Atropurpureum" which is nothing more than a supposed red leaved seedling. That one didn't sprout any roots in a year. I checked several times and it looked good with signs of callusing and possible roots, so I told myself "Alright!, 4-6 weeks and I can separate!". Never did put out any roots but it hasn't died yet. I have a Glowing Embers Japanese maple, which I have read is a clonal variety, meaning that it is propagated by striking cuttings and keeping it on its own roots. That one and a standard green JM both put out roots and could be separated in 6-8weeks. If it is a green leaved variety, non-dissectum(cutleaf), I would say that you should have the same results. If it is a cut leaf, I have heard they can be problematic getting them to throw roots. But I don't have any experience air layering cut-leaf. I am going to be doing some air layers on my newly acquired Shishigashira soon. Good luck and just try not to disturb the bag until you can see root tips poking out of the moss. If you get to the 10-12 week mark and don't see anything I would remove the bag and see what is going on, chances are you may not have cut deep enough. I am sure others with more exp air layering will chime in. I like to also slip a pot around the roots, sphagnum and all, after the bag is nice and full of roots. In the picture I put a pot around this one for 4 weeks after I had a good amount of roots, then separated at 12 weeks mark. But that is my personal preference. As far as your application, looked textbook to me. Good Luck!

P.S Might as well get a few going on that tree while you are at it.

GlowingEmbersJMAirlayer4months.JPG
 

JoeR

Masterpiece
Messages
3,949
Reaction score
3,452
Location
Sandhills of North Carolina
USDA Zone
8a
Would it be a bad idea to use perlite as an air layer potting substance for japanes maples?
 

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
. . . If it is a green leaved variety, non-dissectum(cutleaf), I would say that you should have the same results. If it is a cut leaf, I have heard they can be problematic getting them to throw roots . . .
. . . Might as well get a few going on that tree while you are at it.
Yeah, it is not a dissectum cultivar, so I expect the plant to do its part if I have done mine well enough :)
I definitely plan to get a couple more started on it; I'd like to do at least one in the manner that sorce suggested. I noticed this morning that a couple of buds on the tree have just begun to open, so if I don't have time to get new layers started in the next few days, I may be waiting for a bit until the new leaves harden off.
 

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
The tree has completely leafed out and looks good. I don't see roots in the plastic bag yet, but I'm fine to wait. Unfortunately, the fam has said they don't want any more removed this year - a bad pruning decision for the tree, in addition to me not getting my layers. Oh well, I'm glad I got this one started.
 

ColinFraser

Masterpiece
Messages
2,370
Reaction score
5,699
Location
Central Coast, California
USDA Zone
9b
I peeked the other day and was dismayed to find no roots at all! It hasnt healed over either; in fact, I don't even really see callus :(

image.jpg
 

Eric Group

Masterpiece
Messages
4,554
Reaction score
4,855
Location
Columbia, SC
Switch out the sphagnum for some perlite in a little plastic pot and see if it kicks in. You add any root hormone? The top is not dead and growing Ok?
 

Cypress187

Masterpiece
Messages
2,726
Reaction score
1,771
Location
Netherland
USDA Zone
8b
Wasn't it done in the perfect timing and all that? I want to airlayer also so what is the perfect time.
 

Cypress187

Masterpiece
Messages
2,726
Reaction score
1,771
Location
Netherland
USDA Zone
8b
I'm sorry i was to fast, so after leaves have hardened is better?
 

sikadelic

Chumono
Messages
900
Reaction score
375
Location
Southwest VA
USDA Zone
6B
I feel your pain Colin. I checked my Arakawa layer about a week ago. It was not looking good....I had a black ring around my cut about an 1/2 inch above the wound.

I decided to make lemons from lemonade and take a few cuttings from the top since it was still growing very well. As they were a bit larger, I am using bottom heat to see if it helps the process along. Best of luck to you!!
 
Top Bottom