J. procumbens nana- undefined apex

[fviljoen963]

The top is too long and I just roughly splayed out the bottom branch to allow more sun in as its backbudding

Where should the apex stop? bend up the entire horizontal apex as its now or reduce it to one of the two longer branches I left on top and grow the last branch from the bud that will emerge from the cut site

The other two branches still have to be wired lightly and slayed out but Id rather leave that till spring as I was warned that wire on Junipers in winter could potentially kill smaller branches

the wire I used now was very very thin wire (0.5mm @ most) the rest will need 2mm thickness

Any tips based on experience and opinion on how the apex will look best please share, the cut will also be made in spring I think

Oh its my first connifer and Ive had it for a month and a half now, bought and pruned it the same day
(pictures may or may not follow quickly)

 

[fviljoen963]

first few pics

 

[Paradox]

Im having a similar delemma with one of my junipers. It looks like you are going for a semi cascade? I would suggest looking at some pictures of some and see what appeals to you so you will have something to strive for.

In general, most that I have seen, the apex is over the "center" of the tree to provide a balanced look. This is probably not the only way it is done and it isnt the only right way.

 

[fviljoen963]

Theres a before pic in there somewhere too, just a bush
Converted, I paid about $ 9/10

 

[Paradox]

Another thing: junipers are not like maples. They dont form bud at a cut. If there is no more foliage on the branch below the cut, the branch will die. If there is foliage, they may form new buds below the cut.

 

[Paradox]

I am on my phone so I cant do a vert for you, but if this tree was mine this is what I would probably do:

Re: The first picture of your second pics post that shows the top of the lower branch-I would cut back the larger branch on the top of the pic, leaving the two lower ones that you have wired. That branch is rather straight and has little taper to the trunk. If you have already done alot of work on this tree this year, I would wait until next spring to do this.

For the upper branch, I would thin it out some and position the tree to get more sun lower on that branch on the side of the lowerU branch and hope for a bud somewhere lower that you could eventually cut back to and develop as an apex with more taper. Otherwise, I would try bending that branch down some toward the lower branch if possible.

 

[fviljoen963]

Thanks, I think I see what you mean, and yes that branch is straight
What I meant about the bud was at a number of the "armpits" of the branches, or where branches have been removed buds pop out, I have to remove them all every two weeks

I styled it under guidance (thanks to Jonathan Cain) and about 30-40% of the foliage was removed. He said that I could decide on what to do with that apex now or leave it for spring if I was undecided. But further than that I did nothing to it, its almost covered in new growing points that are opening up new needles (?)

the branch almost above the flattened one will fit in that space very nicely with a twist or two, same goes for the rest but its diff to see in the pic

Thanks again

 

[jk_lewis]

Your main "problem" here is that you have a tree that goes off in two different directions. Both have near equal weight, so the tree looks undecided.

It would make a cascade (or semi-cascade) if the top were cut WAY back, but cascade junipers like this are a dime a dozen and quite boring. My suggestion is to cut away the cascade and start a rather shapely informal upright. (Below)

 

[Paradox]

JKL's idea isnt bad at all. I was focused on the cascade and didnt see the informal upright route.
I agree that his idea might be the better option because bending that down doesnt look like it would work anyway. It would make a nice looking tree.

 

[fviljoen963]

Wow... I never even considered that, I guess I was kind of focused on the semi as well
It will give the whole tree a totally different look

I wil definitely have to explore this tomorrow- thanks for the virt, Ill update this thread when I do something drastic haha

 

[Paradox]

If you have already removed 30-40% of the foliage this year, I would not cut anything more off this tree until next year. If you cut too much more you may kill it.

Think of it this way. You now have a year to stare at the tree and consider your options while you let it recover from what you have done so far.

 

[fviljoen963]

Thats why Im putting off everything until spring (September) as winter is finally here in full swing

Thats why I posted... getting bored as I havent worked on a tree in over a month. And winter is only starting.

Hate not being able to do anything in Autumn and Winter

 

[jk_lewis]

Hate not being able to do anything in Autumn and Winter

Get something different and work on that one.

 

[nicholai hel]

Hate not being able to do anything in Autumn and Winter

After couple of years passed and the number of your trees reached over 60+, you will definitely like autumn and winter more than growing season. Trust me on that and have fun doing nothing but just regular watering.

 

[RKatzin]

You need to slow down with these trees and all conifers for that matter. The rule is one insult pre year and that does not mean once this summer and again next spring. It means the tree needs at least 12 months of recovery from what you have done now. Twenty-four months is even better for dwarf varieties, 'nana'.

I have a few dozen of these trees, and if you want to grow them it is best to get them situated and leave them alone for a couple of years. Just let them run on and get big and bushy.

They never do make a good sized trunk. Ok, never say never, 15 yrs and you may see an inch+ trunk. I buy 5yr old cuttings and figure on a ten yr grow out. I set them in the best positions presented and most are semi-cascades. Very few give you an upright stature. The few that do are at best shohin size.

I'm not a big fan of the wee trees, but (Jim doesn't know it) I've been taking some lessons here and these trees really present alot more possibilities in that catagory. I honestly thought I could do more uprights out of the lot, but you have to work with the tree and forcing a style because that's what you want is a tough row to hoe.

Sorry for all the gab, I just wanted to say that these trees especially need their full recovery time before proceeding with any work. I think there is much testimony here as to what happens if you push too hard. You do not want to cause a set back in this tree. It is very difficult to bring them back to health and vigor once they take a dive.

I am sorry, but in closing I have these sixteen points I'd like to clear up. Ahhh! Just joking there, but if I may add before I go a very important feature on trimming these. When you see backbudding, do not cut back to the buds. Trim back the leader a little at atime and allow the buds to grow until they can support the branch, or you'll be soooooory! Best of growing, Rick

 

[edprocoat]

You need to wait and see what it looks like after you get the root work done. Your informal upright could show up from the side that looked like a cascade at first. The most important info you received in this thread so far is -- give it a year to recover first ...

ed