Ikandi Maple-Looking to Bonsai

Keepin_it_Reel

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I just picked up the Ikandi maple that I'm planning to make a bonsai with.

I'm planning to attach it to a board to encourage the roots to spread horizontally and plant it in the ground for a few years to thicken the trunk.

I'm looking for recommendations on where I should make the first cut of the trunk. I would like to keep the tree around 2-3ft tall max but was hoping I could get some insight from you guys here.
 

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It depends on how much taper you want in my opinion. If you want a lot of taper I would cut it down to the lowest lowest foliage. It would be helpful if you take a better picture of the base where the tree enters to soil.
 
Hi @MeanDean , glad you found this awesome bonsai site!

I have thought about getting an Ikandi maple as well, but no local growers have any and I hate to mail order because I can't choose the trunk I like.

Trevor is right, we need closer pics of the trunk where it emerges from the soil, and the lower branches. Also, it helps us give better advice if you put your location into your icon box.

Looks like a nice healthy tree!
 
Welcome to the nut house dean! First off, add your location to your profile so we can give you more accurate, location specific advice. Second, spring is the time for any root work and chopping on your Japanese maple so there’s plenty of time to study it and come up with a sound plan.
 
FYI, in the future, it would be best to refer to your tree as a Japanese maple ‘Ikandi’ or Ikandi JM, as many people are familiar with Japanese maples but far fewer would be familiar with this specific cultivar. With few exceptions, the care for a cultivar is the same as for a generic JM, so people who don’t have this specific cultivar could still provide valuable guidance to you.

Even though I have many Japanese maples, I almost skipped this thread because my first thought upon seeing the title was, “Ikandi maple? Never heard of it. Probably some exotic zone 8 tree I could never keep alive here.”
 
First things first. You should repot it in the spring and then Airlayer the top. Ikandi is a beautiful Higasayama type and therefore a very special variegated cultivar. This is already good sized.
 
Just to explain, why you should air layer the tree right above the graft is because the graft on this tree doesn’t look great. Look into air layering there is tons of guides on how to do it, just wait until spring once the trees new growth has hardened off. Also if you do this you will likely have two trees since the root stock on the bottom will likely send out new growth once you chop the top off (after your air layer has rooted).
 
Just to explain, why you should air layer the tree right above the graft is because the graft on this tree doesn’t look great. Look into air layering there is tons of guides on how to do it, just wait until spring once the trees new growth has hardened off. Also if you do this you will likely have two trees since the root stock on the bottom will likely send out new growth once you chop the top off (after your air layer has rooted).
So you would air layer just above the graft and once roots have developed make the first cut there and plant it at that time?

I was thinking of air layering about halfway up the tree and creating 2 from this one.

If I keep the tree indoors so that it doesn't go dormant can I air layer now or do I still need to wait until next spring?
 
So you would air layer just above the graft and once roots have developed make the first cut there and plant it at that time?

I was thinking of air layering about halfway up the tree and creating 2 from this one.

If I keep the tree indoors so that it doesn't go dormant can I air layer now or do I still need to wait until next spring?
Don’t keep a Japanese maple indoors. They need a cold dormancy period. Without one, the tree will weaken and eventually die. Wait until spring to do the air layer.
 
Don’t keep a Japanese maple indoors. They need a cold dormancy period. Without one, the tree will weaken and eventually die. Wait until spring to do the air layer.
Thank you

So just leave it in it's current pot until spring before doing anything to the tree.

What do you think about air layering halfway up the tree where I'm be trimming it back anyways?
 
Thank you

So just leave it in it's current pot until spring before doing anything to the tree.

What do you think about air layering halfway up the tree where I'm be trimming it back anyways?
Yeah wait for repot until spring. Though you may want to just air layer next year and repot the year after, since too much work on the tree may kill it. The point of air layering the top is so the graft is gone since it doesn’t look great. If you do it higher one tree will still have the graft on it. The roots below the graft should pop new growth once you sever the layer after it has rooted.
 
What do you think about air layering halfway up the tree where I'm be trimming it back anyways?
I've labeled in red a couple spots where I would consider air layering if it was my tree. The one closer to the top is the one I think is the more promising one because there's already some interesting curvature in the trunk there. You could actually layer in both spots simultaneously if you want to.
20231013_183441.jpg
 
Actually, I would not do 2 air layer and a repot all at once. Dead trees are a possibility. First, do not repot before starting the air layers. Repot only after the air layers have been removed. Disturbing the root system weakens sap flow needed for air layers to succeed.

Do the air layers one at a time. starting at the top. Yes, it will take more time, but your chances of success are much greater if you take this slower one step at a time approach.

Not all cultivars of Japanese maples root easily. 'Ikandi' is new enough that there may not be a track record. The slow approach will give you a better chances.
 
There are a few examples or airlayered A.P. 'Ikandi' on this site. So it can be done. I plan on doing mine next year along with others. Apparently Ikandi also reproduce from cuttings as well.
 
Thanks for all the replies!

I was hoping I could keep it indoors and create an environment to prevent it from going dormant similar to zones that stay slightly warmer than mine only so I could air layer over the winter but if I rish weakening the tree by doing that I'll leave it outside in the pot so nature can do its thing and begin the fun next spring.

Either way this will give me plenty of time to prepare and learn more about all this.
 
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Didn't catch your location, but the rule for most trees including Acer Palmatum is if you fall below 15 f, you'll need protection. When the Temps start to look like that at night I put my trees in the garage. I leave my trees outside until that happens. In the spring it's a dance. Once the buds start expanding the trees go in the garage at night and out during the day. If left in the garage all say they bud much faster.
 
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