How to use this lime sulphur...?

[fredman]

This is a liquid lime sulphur for use on various pests. I'm wanting to use it to treat dead wood. Not sure if I should use as is, or dilute it...also not sure by how much.
Can anyone help plz? The "active ingredient" might give an indication...for those that understand about these things.

 

[Shibui]

For dead wood treatment it can be used straight but tends to run off a bit. I find it is better to dilute equal parts water so it soaks into the wood a bit better.
If you have not used lime sulphur before be prepared for the areas you paint to turn bright yellow at first. A bit frightening first time when you are expecting nice white bleached wood but soon turns white as it is supposed to.
Use in a well ventilated place. The rotten egg stink takes some getting used to while you spend time carefully paint it onto all the crevices and points of the dead wood.

Best to pour a little into another container for use. Initially I dipped straight out of the container but that seems to cause the solution to precipitate so next year it will have hard bits in the bottom.
Lime sulphur also dissolves paint brush bristles over time so you may need a new brush each season.

 

[KateM]

I think 3% solution in water is recommented for pest control. There were multiple mentioning of using line sulfur for this purpose on this forum.

 

[Shibui]

I think 3% solution in water is recommented for pest control. There were multiple mentioning of using line sulfur for this purpose on this forum.

Yes, a weaker solution is used for winter pest control. Appears to prevent fungi and mites as well as insect pests so a great all round winter management tool but the OP is asking about use for preserving dead wood. In that case it is used at high strength.

 

[August44]

Yes, a weaker solution is used for winter pest control. Appears to prevent fungi and mites as well as insect pests so a great all round winter management tool but the OP is asking about use for preserving dead wood. In that case it is used at high strength.

Shibui...I have heard that after this treatment, one can wipe the area with a cloth and india ink to give it a more authentic look? Can you explain that pls. Thanks

 

[leatherback]

Shibui...I have heard that after this treatment, one can wipe the area with a cloth and india ink to give it a more authentic look? Can you explain that pls. Thanks

I just add the ink when I am working. I have an old tray with dried up ink, and I dip my brush in limesulfur and then onto the dried ink. Now I have a greyish tone.

 

[WNC Bonsai]

If you have see the trees that look like someone painted white stripes on them then that is what lome sulfur looks like if done to extremes. It also can build up in multiple applications and looks white washed to me. Using the India ink trick can tone that down. It is a good idea to keep it on smaller air-tight bottles as it will quickly oxidize when exposed to air and gives a nice yellow precipitate. It can be difficult to find locally these days but the pet products company Chewy sells it for a lot less than bonsai suppliers on eBay.

 

[Shibui]

Shibui...I have heard that after this treatment, one can wipe the area with a cloth and india ink to give it a more authentic look? Can you explain that pls. Thanks

I have not used ink with the lime sulphur. The vivid white that looks like whitewash only lasts for a couple of weeks anyway. I need to redo lime S a couple of times a year as it fades and discolours pretty quick here.
I have seen recommendations to just add a few drops of ink to the lime S mix and brush it on in one operation but no experience with how many drops to how much lime S.
I have not seen @leatherback method mentioned before but it obviously works.
I recall reading about painting diluted ink on after Lime S treatment. I think that was aimed at getting some contrast in tones rather than uniform colour all over.
Some growers recommend ground charcoal as an alternative darkening agent. Again I have not personally used so can't give any details.

 

[Clicio]

I think 3% solution in water is recommented for pest control. There were multiple mentioning of using line sulfur for this purpose on this forum.

I am not so accurate with the measurements, but I use it diluted from 3% to 5% every winter on all trees.
On deadwood, no dilution at all, straight from the bottle.

 

[leatherback]

I have not seen @leatherback method mentioned before but it obviously works.

Would look a little like this:




This is what it looks like after a few days of drying, with trying to add a bit of mottled grey in there:

 

[August44]

Just so I understand this procedure, after making a gin or sharia, do I have to let the area on the trunk or the branch totally dry out before applying LS?. Can I dry with a small torch?

 

[leatherback]

gin or sharia

Although Gin can be made from juniper berries, Sharia does not really link to bonsai in my world.

I prefer to let wood age a bit as the natural decay process also add visual age.. You can use a toch but why the rush? Let nature crack that stuff

 

[Shibui]

do I have to let the area on the trunk or the branch totally dry out before applying LS?. Can I dry with a small torch?

I usually just wait for the bare wood to dry a bit. A week or so is usually plenty in this area. The wood just needs to be dry enough for the LS mix to soak into the top layers initially.
I've seen people using small burners to blacken wood so maybe you could use one to dry out fresh wood but I'd be very wary of overheating the live bark along the edges.
The real question has been asked above.