How to Reopen Wound

[dbonsaiw]

As the title implies, looking to better understand how to reopen wounds. What tool do you use? How much is scraped away? I was going to get a metal "toothbrush" and just brush off the scab until I can see below. Advise appreciated.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Sharp knife, clean cuts.

 

[Shibui]

Need to know what sort of wounds you are intending to reopen to make sure we are all starting on the same page.
Reopening wounds for the purpose of speeding up healing may not always achieve what you hope. Generally just lightly scrape the very inside of the callus that's rolling over the open wound.

 

[RJG2]

"Exacto" knife/box cutter/scalpel/sharp grafting knife - will all work. Anything sharp with decent precision.

 

[BobbyLane]

 

[Potawatomi13]

WHY? Allow to heal.

 

[dbonsaiw]

Need to know what sort of wounds you are intending to reopen to make sure we are all starting on the same page.
Reopening wounds for the purpose of speeding up healing may not always achieve what you hope. Generally just lightly scrape the very inside of the callus that's rolling over the open wound.

I had a large trunk chop on a stewartia in mind, but was generally trying to understand when and how to do this. On the stewy, I chopped it down last year and it seems to be healing over. I know some say let it heal and others encourage re-wounding, so just not sure what the thought process is.

As an aside, I have an old, large Norway maple in my backyard that has a sizeable wound that hasn't healed in the almost 20 years I'm at my house. Maybe it's healing really slowly? Can the healing simply stop?

 

[Shibui]

I had a large trunk chop on a stewartia in mind, but was generally trying to understand when and how to do this. On the stewy, I chopped it down last year and it seems to be healing over. I know some say let it heal and others encourage re-wounding, so just not sure what the thought process is.

I tried reopening wounds a few times many years ago but did not think the results were positive so no longer bother.

As an aside, I have an old, large Norway maple in my backyard that has a sizeable wound that hasn't healed in the almost 20 years I'm at my house. Maybe it's healing really slowly? Can the healing simply stop?

I have not seen healing just stop but healing wounds seems to be driven by growth above the wound so wounds on trees that are growing a lot heal quick but similar wounds on a tree that is trimmed regularly to promote ramification and control internode length takes much longer to heal over. That's one reason I prefer to chop early during the growth phase rather than toward the end when I'm slowing growth down.
Some species seem to heal quicker than others too. Azalea and ginkgo are both known as slow to heal. I have no experience with Norway maple. Maybe it heals slow because of lack of growth, lack of vigour, species or a combination.

 

[Tieball]

IF it was desired that I reopen a cut edge I'd use the cutters from my inexpensive wood carving set. The V-shape, large or small, would probably be used most often. It's good to practice controlled use though. For my possible uses…..cutting a sliver controlled would be much better than a larger all-at-once gouge that can quickly get out of control. I'd use the slight rounded tool edges for curves…pushing down for the slight cut. There may be easier ways but I'd have fun this way, take my time and have these tools available.

Overall, I don’t reopen edges. Out of a hundred cut edges I reopen one of them. It would be needed because I cut the original incorrectly or wanted to promote a curve change from what I previously cut. I practice patience and let the tree do what it knows to do for cut closing. I have other things to do. I personally don’t believe cutting open the edge speeds the process up greatly. It’s just my belief. But I suppose it sounds more bonsai-cool to say….cutting the edges of chop wounds today to heal them faster.

 

[Tieball]

IF it was desired that I reopen a cut edge I'd use the cutters from my inexpensive wood carving set. The V-shape, large or small, would probably be used most often. It's good to practice controlled use though. For my possible uses…..cutting a sliver controlled would be much better than a larger all-at-once gouge that can quickly get out of control. I'd use the slight rounded tool edges for curves…pushing down for the slight cut. There may be easier ways but I'd have fun this way, take my time and have these tools available.

Overall, I don’t reopen edges. Out of a hundred cut edges I reopen one of them. It would be needed because I cut the original incorrectly or wanted to promote a curve change from what I previously cut. I practice patience and let the tree do what it knows to do for cut closing. I have other things to do. I personally don’t believe cutting open the edge speeds the process up greatly. It’s just my belief. But I suppose it sounds more bonsai-cool to say….cutting the edges of chop wounds today to heal them faster.View attachment 488976

Note: if, when, I use my wood carving tools anywhere on a tree my fingers are nearly at the cutting edge. I find that it forces me to use a more controlled tree-wood removal. Holding it up only by the wooden palm usually causes slip-ups with out of control cutting. The end of the wooden part of the tool is placed against the center of my palm for the pressure of cutting. Could be slower cutting….but….it works for me.

 

[TimberLakers]

I'm a fan of the X-Acto hobby knives w/ #11 (carbon steel) blades.

Use these almost exclusively for detail wound work on tridents, JM, BC, etc.