How to cut groove for approach grafting

[Nishant]

Hello Friends, I am looking for some feedback from experienced members here.
I put a few approach grafting in Scot pine in the last four weeks and the groove I cut was in the direction along the trunk/branch. I have seen the groove cut transverse to the trunk/branch, in some of the videos.

Two questions please:
(1) Have I done it at the right time? I did it now so that the sap does not come in and interfere with the union formation.
(2) Is a transverse groove better than a longitudinal groove?

 

[Shibui]

Direction of the groove is more about what direction you want the new growth to go. The graft only depends on the cambium layers growing together and that will happen whatever direction your grooves run.
FWIW most of the approach grafts I've done are along the direction of the branch.

 

[Nishant]

Hello All, Just bringing back thread back to action. The approach grafting I have done so far has been troubled by the latex flowing between the unions. Therefore I had this idea for a while and thought of getting some feedback from people.

The idea is that I make the desired cuts in stock and scion and then wrap them individually, just as you do for air layering, with moist sphagnum moss ( or whatever is suitable ) and let the callus form. The latex will continue to flow, but that can be wiped away every few days. Once the latex flow stops, after a few days and the initial callus has formed in both stock and scion, then at this stage bring them together for the callus tissues to fuse and keep the union moist and humid.

 

[AJL]

Presume you mean resin ? Pines dont produce latex - are you grafting Ficus-Rubber plants?
You might like to checkout this previous thread:- https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/approach-graft-on-pine.19142/

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Ideally you want to perform your graft before the sap flow starts boosting up. This way you avoid the sap being an issue.
My own problem was that the groove wasn't deep enough. After making it deeper, the grafts have been taking well.
I do mine in early spring.

If you want to grow callus tissue first, I think that it's possible but I would use cut paste instead of moss and I'd still wait for the sap flow to be calmer. So that technique would take a year of preparation.

 

[Nishant]

Thanks Wire_Guy. I agree that deeper grooves will be better.

How long does the callus take to start forming?
I intend to fuse the callus on stock and scion when it is still young and white in color, not till when the callus has hardened up.

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Callus can form in weeks, or months, or sometimes in weak trees a couple years.
That's why approach grafting in one single go is prefered.

I did a repeat this year of a failed one from last year (in march I believe, before amything started growing) and it's healed over nicely in a single summer. Keeping it in place until summer 24 before I remove all the zipties keeping it together.