help with fantastic Bald Cypress

[Joe Dupre']

As recommended by a long-time bonsai expert and friend (thanks Zach), I've been collecting earlier than I had been in years past. I've had my eye on this beautiful specimen for over a year. It was located on an abandoned oil drilling location on our hunting club. The site was probably abandoned 50-60 years ago and the swamp had reclaimed the area with a foot of silt and FLOATING grass. Yes, floating. I'd take a step and the grass would undulate for 8 feet all around and would sink until I hit solid bottom.

Need some opinions. The long branch is 31" from the eventual base. There are a couple of smaller branches also. Should I try to incorporate them in the design or cut them and start from scratch?

Specs: Base- 8" at soil line..............35" to chop.......... diameter at chop- 1.75" ..... tap root cut- 5.5" ( in the field......Whew!)

It's definitely one of those trees that the pictures don't do it justice.

 

[Mellow Mullet]

I would wait and see what I have to work with when it comes out in the spring.

 

[Joe Dupre']

That's what I was planning to do, MM. The tree is the boss. Thanks.

 

[Maloghurst]

I’m thinking most likely start over. The taper in the top 20 inches seems lacking. I have one that will be about 40” finished but there is taper all the way up.
Then again like you said that pics don’t really tell the whole story. How far below the soil line is the base?

 

[Joe Dupre']

I'll probably cut it down a few inches eventually and get a bit more taper. It's only 1.75 " at the chop, so it's pretty close already.

 

[Maloghurst]

1.75 at chop and what is it 9 and 12 inches below the chop?

 

[Joe Dupre']

I've been thinking about it and couldn't sleep. Yes.......it happens all too often! I'm thinking about chopping it about 5-7" (or even more) below the large branch and then growing a succession of leaders to get some taper and movement. I envision the top of the finished tree at just a few inches above the current chop. That would give it a 6 to 1 ratio, which is a pretty typical goal. I'm not sure if a flat top style would work with this trunk, so I'm leaning more to the informal upright.

 

[Maloghurst]

Possibly something like this could work as well because of the great taper and movement low down. Either way I look forward to your progress with this one!

 

[rockm]

I'll probably cut it down a few inches eventually and get a bit more taper. It's only 1.75 " at the chop, so it's pretty close already.

I'd take two thirds of that top off. Long, boring, no interest/taper.

 

[rockm]

I'd also get rid of those "air roots" at the back of the trunk. They're useless and potentially a problem as they are developing quickly, probably at the expense of better roots in the soil below them.

 

[Joe Dupre']

Possibly something like this could work as well because of the great taper and movement low down. Either way I look forward to your progress with this one!
View attachment 277199

That's a little too severe for my tastes, Maloghurst. I think the tree needs a bit more of the slender part of the trunk and a bit more height.

 

[Joe Dupre']

Rockm, the more I look at it , the more I realize it definitely has to be cut down......maybe to around where the trunk goes from dark to light. I only left those air roots on for a little extra insurance the first year. They'll definitely be coming off as soon as the tree catches up. There were "enough" roots in the silt/grass layer, but I wanted all the roots I could get for insurance.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Each segment of trunk should be shorter and smaller in diameter than the previous segment, this is how taper is created.

If it were mine, I would measure the distance from the soil line to the first dead branch, where the trunk makes a jog to the left. Then, measure from that dead stub up about one third to two thirds of that distance (but avoid exactly half) and chop there. Each segment of trunk should be shorter than the previous for an "idealized" forced perspective.

If you are unsure, a "good tree plan" is lower 1/3 of the trunk is the main trunk, the second 1/3 is trunk with main (primary) branches, outer 1/3 is all secondary, tertiary and foliage. After you chop off some of the extra long section above the dead stub, you will be at about half to 2/3 the final height of the tree.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

The @Maloghurst virtual gives a good idea of what I was suggesting with the trunk. But I would have the branches go out horizontal, to slight above horizontal, not downward. Or have them reach up, to make a "flat top", or the bald cypress dome type broom.

oldest bald cypress known in Illinois - aprox 1300 years old, other states have older trees. Probably furthest north ancient bald cypress.


Note: the top on this is more "Broom like" than typical Spruce or Fir tree like. It is not a "flat top" it is a rounded dome.

 

[Joe Dupre']

Just sketching one of the ideas floating around in my head. This would put the height/base ratio at about 5 to 1 which looks about right to me. I may let the top flair out into a semi-flattop design. Still working on it.

 

[Waldo Street Pottery]

I personally like the long straight sections (with well placed branches) on BC... It's what they look like in nature. It's probably the one species that can easily break the taper and movement rule. And, who doesn't like breaking the rules?!? You can make a reasonable-to great-looking tree using either method, depending on what you like and want to see from the final result. With the natural ratio of BC in nature being 20:1 or even 50:1, what would a rational ratio be for a BC bonsai?

If you haven't, check out the YouTube channel of John Geanangel, his BCs are a beautiful, striking trees. To see them in person takes you away to "that place". Highly recommended for this approach and many other species.

 

[Joe Dupre']

I LOVE breaking rules! I like Geanangel's trees, but they are just a bit too contrived. Cypress grow differently in different environments. In our lakes and swamps, they don't normally have extremely wide bases and exagerated flat tops. I try to train my trees according to what I see around me. This is a very unusual specimen for these parts, so all "normal" styles may not apply. It's going to be a 4-5 year work in progress.

 

[Joe Dupre']

I did cut the long left branch down to 4" and the other tiny branches down to 2". Before I make any more drastic cuts, I'll let the tree flush out. I'll let it suggest the shape it wants to be.

 

[Captain.Bonsai]

Maybe carve a hoof into the apex.

 

[Mike Hennigan]

Damn, great movement and taper as far as baldies go. Nice find man!!!