Help refining Weigela

dacoontz

Mame
Messages
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Location
Southern Oregon, Medford area, USDA 8b
USDA Zone
8b
Hey all, still very new to Bonsai and to this website. So grateful for the help I’ve gotten thus far. Had some questions on styling of this Weigela. Certainly want to highlight the age of this plant and show off it’s nebari. Currently, it seems to just want to grow into a big bush, which it is technically. Was thinking of doing three separate pad like structures in varying heights but wanted to get some others thoughts. Here’s some pics and maybe a video.

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I'm sorry you haven't gotten any responses, but I quite like it so far!

I'm not sure "pads" are the way to go with this type of tree.

I would look towards some of @Walter Pall 's work for inspiration:

Do you still have that one Walter?

I'm planning on digging a similar one up in the spring. It's in the way of a new stone walkway/patio we're having done.
 
I have never had one, but it looks similar to crepe myrtle. Clip and grow method to develop ramification, wire young growth when it is green because it becomes too brittle when woody, and don't let new growth extend past your silhouette. Now if you can do all of that, and time the work so you get a flush of blooms each year, you deserve high praise!
 
maybe if you clear out the center branch/trunks, the negative space will make it less bushy in appearance? Purely based off design aesthetics, I know little of bonsai technique and development.
I just picked up one of these plants, Monet Sunset, from the bargain bin the other day. Mine is a variegated form so might not look that cool except when the leaves fall off. I think I read its common to loose their variegation over time.
Anyway, I like the start of a trunk you have. Is that 'wine and roses'?
I haven't seen much about these plants regarding bonsai with the exception of that @Walter Pall photo progression and this Bonsai Today overview, https://bonsaitoday.com/weigela-bonsai/
The info I found on nursery sites sounds like they naturally tend to ramify, interesting on the article I was reading this is considered undesirable for this plant.
I'll be watching this thread attentively.

Best of luck-Hamfullsizeoutput_17b8.jpeg
 
Thanks for the replies.

I agree that a pad design won't turn out the way I would like. I read somewhere as I searched the interweb that deciduous trees don't tend to jive all that well with the "pad" design. However, I am betting this is not always true.

I would imagine the process to clip and grow these can be tricky if you want to have a nice bloom every year. I have myself being overly aggressive with pruning and having less flowering this year then last when I first acquired it. I am certain I am removing last years growth at times thus losing what would have been the future flowering portions of the plant. However, I suppose that is how it goes if you are looking at the long term.

And Hamburger, I actually grew impatient and started doing exactly what you mentioned above. I think the tree will benefit from removing some of the lower level growth to show off more of the nebari and trunk. I'll have to add some updated pics after some more aggressive pruning and wiring. Hopefully this wasn't a terrible time to prune???
 
You have a really great base to work with. If it were mine, I would emphasize the most massive trunk [far left in pic #3], empty the center space as much as possible, and try to develop the minor trunk farthest to the right as a secondary. That one I would prune back so that the crowning branches were only an inch or so long, and see what kind of growth you get.
Very cool stone in the pot, BTW.
As to whether it’s a crappy time to prune, I would say that if you have no leaves, and buds have not begun to swell, you’re probably good. Obviously my experience in 5b wont translate directly to 8b [I’m always jealous of you people with an actual growing season.] For this species, in my limited experience it’s much more about the roots and the timing of repotting than when you prune. Two dead specimens can testify to my discovering this.
This tree could benefit aesthetically over time from ‘streamlining’ the nebari, for lack of a better expression. Weigela tend to have a root mass like azalea, but softer and less fibrous. It’s deceptively easy to think they are as tolerant of root molestation as azaleas, but I have found them to be considerably more vulnerable. Ergo, I would proceed slowly and thoughtfully over time to remove the exposed thin feeder roots.
Best of luck—It looks like it has tremendous potential.
 
Thank you shinmai, much appreciate the additional info. Here’s what I have to show thus far. Didn’t go crazy on the feeder roots but I did eliminate much from the middle as was suggested. I’d have to agree that emphasizing the two main trunks, but I want to try and work with the central trunk. It’s a bit longer and actually a little pliable so I’m hoping to bring it down a little.

I looked at the example Walter Pall had in the link provided and he looked like he prune his back pretty hard. I did a fair amount but think it may need more in the future. We’ll see things fair after the work I did this time.

Here’s what I got. Take it easy on me, my wiring, pruning, and raffia technique isn’t top notch just yet.

And I apologize for the terrible lighting on the pics. Should have turned off the flash. Will try and get better pics in the day time later this week.

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Dude, don’t beat yourself up so much! You’re doing great, and believe me, there are plenty of jerks around here who will deliver opinionated beatings for you! if you want to develop all three, go for it.
my advice is to take everyone’s input with the proverbial grain of salt. There’s an old saying to the effect that opinions are like assholes: everybody has one, and no one wants to hear about yours.
Weigela is right up there with ninebark as unconventional species that aren’t in the bonsai textbooks but can still make stunning trees. Even if you don’t start a development thread, I’d like to see how you progress with this high-potential prospect. PM me if you want
 
I read somewhere as I searched the interweb that deciduous trees don't tend to jive all that well with the "pad" design. However, I am betting this is not always true.
What exactly do you mean by this? 🤔

How long did it take for you to get your weigela into that pot? how did you do it?
You are my official weigela guru since there isn't much info out there on bonsai cultivation.
I need to repot mine since there are several other babies growing in the nursery pot that I need to get out of there.
 
How'd this do this season @dacoontz ?

I dug a large one up this spring, but I haven't figured out a path for it yet, just let it recover this year.
 
Going strong. It didn’t really flower much this year as I had been pruning it back quite a bit. The overall pot environment would seem happy with the presence of some interesting fungus in the pot. I’m going to keep it fairly dry during the winter as I’m hoping the fungus isn’t a sign of root rot. The trunk and nebari are solid.

I’ll probably repot it in the spring with the same pot probably. I’m curious about the pots origin, no markings.

I did lose a small branch from a giant falling acorn, but nothing major and will likely just do some wiring to fill the space. However, the smaller branches on these don’t seem to really hold once the wire is removed. I think guy wire would be best for the larger structural branches.

All in all, everything seems fine. Although after I posted the pics, I think the right section needs some work. It has the appearance of two small shoots growing out of a single large chop, which it isn’t.

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Nice. Mine will be a giant clump, so I just let some potential trunks grow this year. Next year I'll need to do some selection, maybe some carving, and start trying to get some branching going.

 
I have only limited experience with weigela but they seem to reduce their leaves in response to close confinement of the root mass. I think the tree is lovely, and you have made a lot of progress since you started the thread. If it were mine, I would get rid of that big left-to-right crossing root—it acts like a visual magnet and pulls the eye towards the soil line. That’s kind of a shame since you’ve done such nice work establishing the base and developing the branches.
‘That is also a great little plateau stone you have in the pot. On its own it could make a very nice little suiseki, which could be a great display companion, given the visual mass of that wonderful base.
 
Thank you Shinmai, will have to explore a bit more work on the nebari. Something I’m still learning. Funny thing, you’re not the first person to mention the stone. It is probably time for me to give it some of it’s own space. Thanks again for the info on reduction technique.
 
Nice weigela, @dacoontz !

I tried one when I was new to the hobby and promptly killed it -- good thing it was only an inexpensive purchase from a big box store. I have three in my front yard that do very well, so maybe I'll try another this year. You have inspired me!
 
Lovely little tree, I will be following your progress!
mom also new and I’ve got to old weigelas I’ve dug up from customers gardens (with permission😂) so I’m try to pick up some tips on training them and keeping them alive!
 
I'm sorry you haven't gotten any responses, but I quite like it so far!

I'm not sure "pads" are the way to go with this type of tree.

I would look towards some of @Walter Pall 's work for inspiration:

Do you still have that one Walter?

I'm planning on digging a similar one up in the spring. It's in the way of a new stone walkway/patio we're having done.
Do you happen to have any info on how Walter managed to achieve this?
 
Do you happen to have any info on how Walter managed to achieve this?
I've only found that and one other short blog post. Not a ton of info.

Not that I have any right to attempt summoning you @Walter Pall - but do you still have your weigela? Any tips on developing/refining would be amazing.
 
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