Hardest tree to work on

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Thought I would share some pics of the the hardest tree I have the pleasure of working on. It is a wild Tamarind. They are compound leaf, and die back rather far when cut. Very hard to thicken up branches due to the fact that one has to grow out the branches to well over 6 feet in order to put the slightest amount of growth on. Then one has to worry about cutting back and not losing any branches and actually having growth pop.

Been growing and working this tree for over 6 years now. Up until now, I have been just trying to concentrate on establishing main branches. This spring I cut back everything and new growth in just starting to fill in. I will be repottting this tree this summer in a more coarse soil, and will now start working finer branching and ramification. Will also, try and get this into a smaller pot. Thanks!
 

Cypress187

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I allways wondered how those leafs where called, now that i know i want to ask if they are reduce-able or will i kill the leafs when i prune them in half?
 
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I allways wondered how those leafs where called, now that i know i want to ask if they are reduce-able or will i kill the leafs when i prune them in half?
The leaves will reduce. I have been trying to grow the tree's main branches out to a state where I am happy with them, so I can move on to the next stage. This process has evolved soil that holds alot more moisture and I have been watering healthy.

When I move the tree into a coarser soil, and allow for more air to get to the roots, that tree will put on more finer branches as more finer roots grow. More branches, equals more leaves, equals smaller leaves.
This tree's foliage will reduce down to having leaves the size of a piece of rice.

Since they are compound leaves, one can reduce back to the first set of leaves, of the individual overall leaf.
 
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Did you notice the lizard on the tree?
I did, he was very curious as to why I was disturbing his tree!
I have thousands of them here in my yard, they help with the bugs
 
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Also, wanted to say that I will be continuing to thicken up the main branches... I would like them to all be about 2 x's as thick as they are now.

I am constantly fighting having to let it grow and cutting back, with this tree. Due to loss of the branch altogether. So, I now feel I am at a stage where I can move onto defining the tree, yet allowing for sacrifice branches off of the main branching to be allowed to run free. Which will still enable me to accomplish the thickening of the branches.

Also, wanted to add, that seeing where the major roots that were cut back at collecting, have started to send out smaller roots. I will need to work on these.
I plan on carving the tops of the old roots to make the transition down into the new roots. So there will be a nice taper. Also, all of these newer roots have come about since being potted in this pot. So, this gives me great hope that I will be able to end up with a pretty nice nebari. When I go to repot, I will need to straighten these all out.

Lastly, the main trunk chop needs more attention, to give me more of a V shape. At the top. I did a little bit of carving some time back to begin to get this section on it's way, but did not want to cut in to deep in the middle for fear of loosing branching on the left side, and rear of the tree. Thanks!
 

Cypress187

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Since they are compound leaves, one can reduce back to the first set of leaves, of the individual overall leaf.
I still don't really understand compound leaves, i found this on wiki:

"Compound leaves are closer to shoots than simple leaves. Developmental studies have shown that compound leaves, like shoots, may branch in three dimensions.[9][10] On the basis of molecular genetics, Eckardt and Baum (2010) concluded that "it is now generally accepted that compound leaves express both leaf and shoot properties."

:confused: Does this mean i can also rammify compound leaves?
 
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I have not found that one can ramify individual shoots. What I will do some times though is to cut back to the first set of leaves on the shoots, which will open up the tree and allow for further back budding.
 

Anthony

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Not an easy tree to train. On our side leaves mature and die in about a month, while large wounds heal well. Additionally the mature wood is dark brown and termites won't touch it.
Best of luck.
Good Day
Anthony
 
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Not an easy tree to train. On our side leaves mature and die in about a month, while large wounds heal well. Additionally the mature wood is dark brown and termites won't touch it.
Best of luck.
Good Day
Anthony
Do you have Lysiloma latisiliquum, Wild Tamarind that you work on?
 
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Pretty cool tree, very unique-funny about the lizard as I have preying mantis by the hundreds in my yard!
Besides lizards we get a lot of grasshoppers, butterflies and dragonflies.
 
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