Grow pots

markyscott

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So there's another thread:

http://www.bonsainut.com/index.php?threads/mica-vs-plastic-pots.21550/

debating the merits of mica and plastic pots. When growing out plants for bonsai, I like the training pots to be:
  1. Durable
  2. Shallow, but deeper than the final bonsai pot
  3. Inexpensive
I have quite a few mica pots I've bought over the years. They're durable, but increasingly expensive. Mica pots are 1&2, but not 3. Plastic pots are 2&3, but not 1.

Increasingly, I just build my own. Here's how I do it.

My basic building material is cedar fencing. I use 8' pieces. Cheap. Durable.
image.jpeg

Cut all the pieces you need before you start assembling the box. For the sides you'll need to cut 4 pieces. You can cut them to any length, but two of the pieces should be 1" longer than the other 2 pieces.

image.jpeg

Cont'd

Scott
 
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markyscott

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Screw the sides together with 1 1/2" galvanized decking screws.

image.jpeg image.jpeg

I like to reinforce the sides with 1x2's. You'll need to cut 4 6" pieces for each box. Use the 1 1/2" screws on the 2" side, but 1 1/4" screws on the 1" side.

image.jpeg

It should look like this when the sides are all assembled.

image.jpeg

Cont'd

Scott
 

markyscott

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Flip it over and install the bottom. You'll need pieces the length of the LONG side. So, if you've made a 21" box (as I have done in this example, you'll need 21" pieces for the bottom. Fencing is 6" wide cedar, so you'll need 4 pieces. Th last one will be too wide. Rip it to length. Leave a small gap between the boards for drainage. That way you don't need to make feet.

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

Cont'd

Scott
 

markyscott

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Flip it back over and install the drainage mesh. I use drywall tape. Cheap. Durable.

image.jpeg

Drywall joint tape has an adhesive back. Makes it easy to put on, but always reinforce it by stapling it down. It's a bummer to start losing soil out of the bottom of the pot.

image.jpeg

Cont'd

Scott
 

Anthony

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Wow Mark,

those are for big trees. Down here we stop around 18", you must be very strong.
More power tco you.
Thanks for teaching, like the screen technique.
Good Day
Anthony
 

Nwaite

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Thanks man!

I like the tape idea.

Going to make a few.of these this spring!
 

markyscott

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Here's the finished product.

image.jpeg

I made 3 21" boxes and 5 16" boxes. Total cost was less than $10 per box. They are generally good for around 4-5 growing seasons, but check it each winter to make sure it's still up for another growing season.

They are great at repotting time. You just unscrew the sides and the side of the rootball is exposed - no need to pull the tee out of the pot.

Try it - these only took me a couple of hours to make, including the trip to the big box store.

Scott
 
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thumblessprimate1

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You mean rootball, right? I kept looking back at the pictures for a football. Nice tutorial.
Here's the finished product.

View attachment 90490

I made 3 21" boxes and 5 16" boxes. Total cost was less than $10 per box. They are generally good for around 4-5 growing seasons, but check it each winter to make sure it's still up for another growing season.

They are great at repotting time. You just unscrew the sides and the side of the football is exposed - no need to pull the tee out of the pot.

Try it - these only took me a couple of hours to make, including the trip to the big box store.

Scott
 

coh

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That's pretty much the way I build mine, except (1) I've never used the reinforcing corner boards, and (2) I've usually left wider gaps between the bottom boards. Also have never tried using the drywall tape, usually just use window screen which I staple to the bottom and sides.

The only issue I've had is that the roots sometimes get really tangled into the screen which requires disassembly of the entire box at repotting time.
 

LanceMac10

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Last step. It's the one I enjoy the most.

View attachment 90496

Scott

Well earned rewards! Nicely done and thanks for sharing. Have some we did a couple years ago, still holding together.

I just stick 'em in the ground and skip straight to this step! ;)

Shovel....or electric drill? Think long term. Even I can't use a shovel that well, one handed..hehehee
These things are perfect for those with limited access to terra firma.....
well, almost perfect......
DSC00757.JPG

Mugs ain't the only thing that need a handle!
Seriously though, 'dem boxes look sweet!! Killer job, now looky at all those boxes that need fillin'!!!
 

Andrew Robson

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Thank you for sharing, Scott! Very detailed post with great pics.

Do you find the drainage to be enough on these with just the space in between? I would be inclined to drill a few holes in the bottom to give it some extra help.

Also I like the idea for drilling handles on the side. Extra money, but probably pretty reusable over the years if purchasing one with the right material.

Cheers!
 
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Poor Mrs. Mac comes homes from vacation and got no cabinet handles left!

Fancy!

Functional!

Score!

Sorce

If you put duct tape on the inside of the front panel of the drawer and hang it out there's no need for a handle.
Duct tape even comes in different colours, so it's for every kitchen an option!
 

sorce

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72c2bb979c3f2cc186e3293c81625de7.jpg

Hell yeah....here's one for @carp one for @armetisius and one for.....well.....the noodle drawer of course!

Just so this is not all BS....

I tried to find a better representation....but this is a cute pic....so you can figure it out!

If you put straps on the far end....a 2 man tree could become a one man tree..ab2376d8becc16bff4517b6de8667688.jpg

Sorce
 
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i make mine bit less deep. 3 mm between the boards at the bottom, so i do not need screen. Made other variation few years ago with a full screened bottom. Works ok for medium sizes. Thanks for the pictures. Nice to know i'm not the only nut
 
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