Grafting chisel

[johnl445]

I’ve been researching grafting chisels, and these are a very nice option. But quickly becomes costly if I want to buy the set. Do you guys haves any suggestions on chisels that you recommend. Thanks.

 

[n8]

What are you grafting that requires a chisel? They look like very nice tools, but I haven't found anything that I can't graft with a razor blade.

 

[River's Edge]

Grafting chisels are used for grafting scions on mature branches or trunks. Particularly conifers and older Yamadori or developed trees that would benefit from improvement in the ramification. Only possible with grafting because the material is of such an age that back budding is unreliable. Very common approach with older material as opposed to young nursery landscape propagation.
Any set of good steel chisels can be adapted for this purpose if properly shaped and sharpened. when learning how to do this specialized grafting the student normally adapts chisels to match the purpose.
You can purchase specific sizes for particular purposes. For example grafting scions on older azalea without thread grafting. When I was taught how to use grafting chisels I first was required to purchase the chisels and adapt them to match the ones used by my teacher for pine grafting. I went to Lee Valley and purchased a set of Japanese wood working chisels and created the bevel and angles required based on my teachers sets. Here is a phot of the ones I used. I also purchased a manufactured chisel for azalea grafting from Bonsai tonight later on. For those interested the chisel is useful when grafting in areas of mature bark. The chisel is placed and holds the flap in place until the scion is inserted and pinned securely. Two sizes are generally used. One for the initial vertical cut matching the length of the scion and the other to match the width of the scion without damaging the cambium. Short answer, they are effective and useful if one works with aged material wether collected or developed. Part of the graftinched those.g too illustrated in the second photo. Ing pair order to work effectively the chisels are created with a compound bevel. Best to match with an existing pair! I took careful photos of Boon's set and matched those. They work fine.

 

[JEads]

I don't use a grafting chisel enough to justify the cost, but I have found a few grafts every year that require one, so I just got a few cheap wood chisels (3mm and 4mm) the profile is a little different, but they are $25 each and seem to work fine.
Search for KAKURI Japanese Mortise Chisel

 

[River's Edge]

Here are the profiles that I matched and found effective if anyone is interested. Takes a few hours to duplicate in the beginning.

 

[johnl445]

Thank you so much @River's Edge i will save your post for future reference.

@JEads I’m in the same boat. I will
Probably do the same. But those long thin chisels look like they are designed to easily access the tree

 

[River's Edge]

But those long thin chisels look like they are designed to easily access the tree

The width of the chisel is more connected to the width of the scions used for particular species and suited to particular locations. narrow chisels do not work for wider scions and vice versa. Generally the location for grafting is easily accessible or grafting would not be needed in that location. Just for clarification.

 

[johnl445]

The width of the chisel is more connected to the width of the scions used for particular species and suited to particular locations. narrow chisels do not work for wider scions and vice versa. Generally the location for grafting is easily accessible or grafting would not be needed in that location. Just for clarification.

Ok, just curious about the ergonomics of the chisel handle? Why would someone prefer the non-grip chisel as opposed to a one with a wooden handle? I am a finish Carpenter, and I feel like the thin unhandled chisel would be more difficult to control and lack of grip. But maybe I am missing something.

 

[River's Edge]

Why would someone prefer the non-grip chisel as opposed to a one with a wooden handle?

Not sure that they would, I agree with you. In my case it came down to availability of desired chisel width, quality of steel. The narrower chisel I desired was not available in the wooden handled type that I preferred.

 

[johnl445]

Two sizes are generally used. One for the initial vertical cut matching the length of the scion and the other to match the width of the scion without damaging the cambium

This is interesting, does this mean the vertical cut in the host tree is deeper than the horizontal cut, thus requiring 2 different chisels?

 

[River's Edge]

This is interesting, does this mean the vertical cut in the host tree is deeper than the horizontal cut, thus requiring 2 different chisels?

No. It means the lengthwise cut on the scion is longer than the widthwise cut of the scion. If one wants to get the best fit it pays to create an appropriately sized opening. As mentioned previously the size or thickness of the scion also affects the choice of chisel size. iOne needs allow for the slanted position the scion will be placed when choosing the chisel for the top or bottom cut to improve the contact area of the cambiums. The reason I use the term top or bottom cut is that some branches are grafted in a downward position, others are grafted upwards.

 

[peeper]

No. It means the lengthwise cut on the scion is longer than the widthwise cut of the scion. If one wants to get the best fit it pays to create an appropriately sized opening. As mentioned previously the size or thickness of the scion also affects the choice of chisel size. iOne needs allow for the slanted position the scion will be placed when choosing the chisel for the top or bottom cut to improve the contact area of the cambiums. The reason I use the term top or bottom cut is that some branches are grafted in a downward position, others are grafted upwards.

Hello and sorry for my lack of my imagination but can you show us how you do it? Especially graft on pine steam. Best regards.

 

[River's Edge]

Hello and sorry for my lack of my imagination but can you show us how you do it? Especially graft on pine steam. Best regards.

Hello Peeper. never grafted on a pine steam. Not into video production. I do teach grafting classes if you are interested. Send me your information by PM and I will put you on my email list for future classes! Best regards.

 

[ponderingsage]

In hindsight l wish l had used a chisel instead of a grafting knife in a large juniper branch earlier this season… the knife wound seemed excessive. Totally see how a chisel as wide as the scion is thick would help in limiting the cut site.

 

[River's Edge]

In hindsight l wish l had used a chisel instead of a grafting knife in a large juniper branch earlier this season… the knife wound seemed excessive. Totally see how a chisel as wide as the scion is thick would help in limiting the cut site.

Not sure myself, I have not used chisels for grafting on juniper. I prefer a razor blade or grafting knife for Junipers. They are much easier to graft in my experience with thinner bark. The chisels are used when you are working with more mature material thicker bark like on a fifteen year old pine trunk! The grafting knives and sharp edges like razor blades are still used for the scion preparation even in the pine grafting. Just for clarification. The most commonly used method on older juniper material is approach grafting. Some more advanced practitioners use scion on juniper, but they will be the first to admit that it is a tremendous amount of work to do it that way! The upside is the improved aesthetic result in a shorter period of time and less risk of the graft being rejected or protruding over time from the channel used for approach grafting.

 

[bwaynef]

The downside to scion grafting is the timing involved. Approach grafts can be done at any time during the growing season. Scions require goldilocks timing in the spring or fall. (Right?) Boon still teaches scion grafting, but last time I was there I think we only focused on approach grafting (where his technique continues to be refined, having changed a bit since the last time we'd done it).

 

[ponderingsage]

Not sure myself, I have not used chisels for grafting on juniper. I prefer a razor blade or grafting knife for Junipers. They are much easier to graft in my experience with thinner bark. The chisels are used when you are working with more mature material thicker bark like on a fifteen year old pine trunk! The grafting knives and sharp edges like razor blades are still used for the scion preparation even in the pine grafting. Just for clarification. The most commonly used method on older juniper material is approach grafting. Some more advanced practitioners use scion on juniper, but they will be the first to admit that it is a tremendous amount of work to do it that way! The upside is the improved aesthetic result in a shorter period of time and less risk of the graft being rejected or protruding over time from the channel used for approach grafting.

Sounds perfect for some smaller barked up ponderosa l was thinking about grafting JBP onto in the future.

 

[River's Edge]

The downside to scion grafting is the timing involved. Approach grafts can be done at any time during the growing season. Scions require goldilocks timing in the spring or fall. (Right?) Boon still teaches scion grafting, but last time I was there I think we only focused on approach grafting (where his technique continues to be refined, having changed a bit since the last time we'd done it).

Yes the timing is more particular depending on the species, particularly if there is stronger sap flow. The other downside to scion grafting particularly with pines is the advance preparation of scion material with de-candling required the previous season for best choice of material for pine scion grafting success! Approach grafting is simpler with selection of appropriate size.
With pines the scion material must match closely with timing and also the speed of completion for best results. Boon always mentioned that grafting required a lot of practice. Daisaku was also considered very good at grafting and had lots of tips when he joined in on classes. He often visited at that time of year and took part in the annual Shows when possible.

 

[peeper]

Here are the profiles that I matched and found effective if anyone is interested. Takes a few hours to duplicate in the beginning.

Are you left or right hand? I am left, want buy one straight chisel and one side edge but I an not sure which? And last but not least according to you for pine 6 or 4 mm will be better? Or you use different size for straight and different for side?

 

[River's Edge]

No. It means the lengthwise cut on the scion is longer than the widthwise cut of the scion. If one wants to get the best fit it pays to create an appropriately sized opening. As mentioned previously the size or thickness of the scion also affects the choice of chisel size. iOne needs allow for the slanted position the scion will be placed when choosing the chisel for the top or bottom cut to improve the contact area of the cambiums. The reason I use the term top or bottom cut is that some branches are grafted in a downward position, others are grafted upwards

Peeper, The cuts in their length are to match the cuts on the scion as indicated above. Choose the size that fits the material you will be working with.