Further development on my japanese white pine

[raffaelbaer]

Hi together,

Just today I repotted my japanese white pine into its new pot!

However I wanted to get some advice from you guys, I would really like to give the tree a more fuller and mature appearance, how could it become bushier with bigger and denser growth?
Also could one of you Imagine how the tree might look in 5-10 years from now, since i cant really imagine it... Will the branches and trunk be thicker (if I everytime prune candles in spring)?
What could I do about the overall appearance of the tree => bring in your own Ideas on how you would style the tree PS: I dont really like the straight part going up to the apex...

Hopefully some of you guys can help me bring this tree further on its way to maturity
and give me some tips!

Thanks in advance for any help



Cheers
Raffael

 

[Shibui]

Every tree will gradually get thicker with time. It happens faster if you allow the tree to grow and happens slower if you keep trimming but it will happen. A larger pot allows more root growth which will also allow more top growth and therefore thickening.
The downside to faster growth is that it is easy to lose control of a tree, especially a pine where chopping to bare branches is not an option so consider allowing this one to grow out carefully.

I dont really like the straight part going up to the apex...

You have problem? Cut him off. No more problem!
The great thing with this tree is you still have options to replace that straight section. The opposite branches just below are begging to replace the straight section and will also give better taper to the apex.
Something like this:

Wiring that branch up a bit will continue the bends of the lower trunk as well as relacing the thick, straight section.

You mention having repotted the tree today. Middle of winter in Germany? Where are you keeping it after the repot? How much root did you remove? It is not always a great idea to do lots of work on trees close together. It may be better to let it recover from the repot and do the reduction in summer.

Fuller, more mature appearance takes time. We can trim the branches at the correct time of year to help develop more shoots and ramification but still need to work with the seasons and yearly growth of the tree. Apart from feeding and caring for the tree there's not a lot we can do to speed up development, especially pines.

 

[raffaelbaer]

Every tree will gradually get thicker with time. It happens faster if you allow the tree to grow and happens slower if you keep trimming but it will happen. A larger pot allows more root growth which will also allow more top growth and therefore thickening.
The downside to faster growth is that it is easy to lose control of a tree, especially a pine where chopping to bare branches is not an option so consider allowing this one to grow out carefully.


You have problem? Cut him off. No more problem!
The great thing with this tree is you still have options to replace that straight section. The opposite branches just below are begging to replace the straight section and will also give better taper to the apex.
Something like this:
View attachment 525678
Wiring that branch up a bit will continue the bends of the lower trunk as well as relacing the thick, straight section.

You mention having repotted the tree today. Middle of winter in Germany? Where are you keeping it after the repot? How much root did you remove? It is not always a great idea to do lots of work on trees close together. It may be better to let it recover from the repot and do the reduction in summer.

Fuller, more mature appearance takes time. We can trim the branches at the correct time of year to help develop more shoots and ramification but still need to work with the seasons and yearly growth of the tree. Apart from feeding and caring for the tree there's not a lot we can do to speed up development, especially pines.

Thanks for your greatly detailed reply, really appreciate it,

I like your Idea with developing a new leader, maybe I will do it next Spring, when the tree has recovered.
And yes, end of January seems a bit early to repot a pine, however, we are getting consistent temperatures of arround 10 degrees (celsius) and bearly any frost, maybe on 1-2 days in a time of 3 weeks from now on (maybe only -1C, -2C), so I guess it will be fine, Im mainly keeping it where my other trees overwinter to keep it this way, they are literally all just outside in the garden, sheltered from harsh wind of course and not getting all day sunlight... cause all of them are pretty hardy, hadnt had any problems with the colder winters (even with maples and cherrys)! Oh and rootwise, the soil of the tree was really compacted and the roots were pretty tangled, because it was standing in the japanese training teracotta pot for maybe 3-5 years, from what I would assume (bought it from a person of Ebay). I tried to untangle them which kinda worked, pruned of about 10-15% of the really thick and old roots, and then put it in my normal bonsai mix of (1 part, quality potting loam / soil, 1 part akadama, 1 part pumice, 1 part lava rock) also sprinkeld on some oranic fertilizer just before watering it. Been trying with fertilizing my trees earlier this year...

 

[River's Edge]

I would step back a bit in the thought process and examine the existing branching carefully! In the case of the lower branches it appears that there are too many left on the same whorl. This will continue to create some inverse taper if not corrected. Further up the tree two branches appear be " bar Branches" . This may be a good site to wire them off angle. I would also look at the other area that appears overly thick from too many branches on the same whorl. How to improve that section.
in short, I would begin with the best combination of base and trunk movement in the lower portion and restart the design from that point keeping in mind some of the above. There is a small branch on right side in a good position to consider a new apical leader. This would improve taper and change direction at a good level, eliminating the top straighter section. I drew a small gray line at that point.
because the lower movement is quite active, the upper part should also introduce more movement when possible for a unified look.
Last note: it may be worthwhile to retain a lower sacrifice branch to thicken the area just below the first whorl and reduce a bit of the inverse taper. It will be hard to correct otherwise.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Really like the lower trunk. Above that, not sure from the images. Anyways here’s two areas to think about, somewhat echoing @River's Edge comments

Structural - Two branches coming from the same area or opposing one another cause the water and nutrient channels in the trunk to swell and create “reverse taper” . So one is removed. However one design trick bonsai hobbyists often use is when two branches are coming from the same area, this is also be an excellent opportunity to cut the leader. Then wire one branch up and one down or sideways to create taper and cool direction changes.

Aesthetics- Hobbyists also create and expand on key themes in any type of design. One is unity within the entire design. In this tree the lower trunk sets the tone for the entire design. Curved or perhaps twisty. So one might think how to make everything above and branches off the trunk harmonize with this theme. Presently everything above the top 2-4 branch areas are out of synch with the lower trunk.

You asked about how to make this tree more full and mature. From my perspective, using only the one image, I almost think going really low would be a good solution for the mature look. This would mean cutting just above the third branch junction from the bottom. Then wire one branch up and/or around and one down or sideways.

Also remove one branch from each junction below… keep the one with the closest growth to the trunk or best look. To make the tree fuller will take time and proper candle work. This procedure is discussed on this thread. This should be done in any case.

As the tree was just repotted, best to wait a year. Consider all suggestions and make any major cuts then.

Good luck!

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Frozentreehugger]

You have received some great advice here . But considering your goals . And you have work to do on the lower branching . If your going to chop the top off . I would not do it soon . Let it grow with no restraint. Since it’s the apex it will thicken the trunk at the fastest rate . And even . In a few years when it’s contributed to trunk size chop it off . You gain trunk girth and all it really costs you is time for the new apex to seal the wound .