First shimpaku
- Thread starter Nybonsai12
- Start date
larlamonde
Shohin
Nice material. Anytime you can get your hands on them its a good idea. Can I ask how much$$. Lots of options, take your time and have patience with your decision.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Welcome to shimpakus! Some thoughts...
1. The trunk was twisted, so you'll need to also twist those branches to have the appeal of repetition and consistency. Now is a good time, if you can do it without disturbing the repotted roots.
2. The straight branch is a sacrifice branch. It will cause reverse taper where it joins the trunk. If that has started to happen, start reducing it now (cut it back by half, and keep it thinned out), or Jin it and incorporate it with a little Shari as shown.
3. Since the trunk is straight where it meets the soil, it needs to thicken. Carving some oval-shaped Sharis will cause swelling on both sides. Carving on the back as shown will help widen that straight section.
I'd start there, then feed it heavily, keep it in lots of sun and enjoy it for the year.
1. The trunk was twisted, so you'll need to also twist those branches to have the appeal of repetition and consistency. Now is a good time, if you can do it without disturbing the repotted roots.
2. The straight branch is a sacrifice branch. It will cause reverse taper where it joins the trunk. If that has started to happen, start reducing it now (cut it back by half, and keep it thinned out), or Jin it and incorporate it with a little Shari as shown.
3. Since the trunk is straight where it meets the soil, it needs to thicken. Carving some oval-shaped Sharis will cause swelling on both sides. Carving on the back as shown will help widen that straight section.
I'd start there, then feed it heavily, keep it in lots of sun and enjoy it for the year.
Attachments
Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
Thanks for your response BVF. I fully admit your blog and work on shimpakus is part of what made me want one! Lots of inspiration on your page.
I figured the straight branch would have to go and that there would need to be done carving. I wasn't sure about the timing with the carving so thanks for the input. The tree is healthy and I don't think I will disrupt the roots with this work, so i will likely give it a shot soon
I figured the straight branch would have to go and that there would need to be done carving. I wasn't sure about the timing with the carving so thanks for the input. The tree is healthy and I don't think I will disrupt the roots with this work, so i will likely give it a shot soon
october
Masterpiece
Nice tree. Brian's advice is excellent. As far as views, I sort of like pic 4. There is one problem that about 90% of these kinds of trees have. That is branches that are too long and large that are supported by a trunk that is not thick enough to support a well proportioned bonsai image. It usually ends up that the branches and the foliage are so large that the trunk get's lost visually. Which means it loses the illusion of an older tree.
One thing that is sometimes done is a huge cut back, sometimes in stages or all at once. However that is always a gamble with junipers. It is difficult to say without seeing the tree in person. However, I might try to create something in the middle. Not trying to create a small compact tree, but not using the whole tree as it is now either. Maybe something in the middle, like this. Based on pic 4. Of course, with a situation like this, one really needs to see the tree in person.
Rob
One thing that is sometimes done is a huge cut back, sometimes in stages or all at once. However that is always a gamble with junipers. It is difficult to say without seeing the tree in person. However, I might try to create something in the middle. Not trying to create a small compact tree, but not using the whole tree as it is now either. Maybe something in the middle, like this. Based on pic 4. Of course, with a situation like this, one really needs to see the tree in person.
Rob
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Paradox
Marine Bonsologist
Cool trunk. Good luck with it!
KennedyMarx
Omono
Very nice! If you're going to do something, might as well do it right. This will be great with some refinement.
Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
I gave it a shot last night and I kind of feel like I butchered it. The twisting was somewhat difficult on the bigger lower branches. I fear I may have pushed one branch too far. I've also never carved anything before so that was a learning experience, but I guess that is what I am doing it for. I will try and get a pic up tonight.
My other thought is, I don't see the top portion of this tree being part of the final design. Could it be air layered off this season with the repot and other work just done?
My other thought is, I don't see the top portion of this tree being part of the final design. Could it be air layered off this season with the repot and other work just done?
october
Masterpiece
Hi ny, as far as the twisting, you really don't have to necessarily twist them. If you let the wire stay on long enough so that it cuts in just a bit, it will create the look of a twisted branch. I look forward to seeing the work you did.
Rob
Rob
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Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
You might want to consider other things then wire unless you want to go for the glory(pretty intense plant reconstruction) like Vic. Might want to consider an "Iron Maiden" approach. Tie the pot and the tree down to a pallet or similar wood structure. If needed uprights and cross members can be added. Large clamps and/or cables can be used to "convince" it to where you want it. You have a lot of options with it - plan and it will work out 
Grimmy
Grimmy
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Neli
Omono
I would personally not leave the trunk any higher...than the horizontal black wire...probably use the small branch just bellow it to create the apex, and jin the parts above it. But again I am used to the traditional Japanese styling...and as Rob said...maybe you can make it a bit taller.
You have done good job on the shari...but I would have started in from soil level. You want the maximum expansion there.
If you make a double shari...(not now) opposite the current one (behind) you will get faster expansion of the trunk.
You might consider the option of guy ??? wires and slowly lower branches.
Try to put the branches not directly above each other to bring light into the lower foliage pads.
It will make a cute little shohin. Good luck.
You have done good job on the shari...but I would have started in from soil level. You want the maximum expansion there.
If you make a double shari...(not now) opposite the current one (behind) you will get faster expansion of the trunk.
You might consider the option of guy ??? wires and slowly lower branches.
Try to put the branches not directly above each other to bring light into the lower foliage pads.
It will make a cute little shohin. Good luck.
Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
Thank you, tips like this are very helpful!
Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
Thanks Neli for your advice and input. Why not perform the double shari now? too much stress? I actually did carve a very small oval on the back of the tree at the soil line in hopes of obtaining swelling.
october
Masterpiece
Actually, shari should not be carved on both the front and back. It is best to leave one side always fully functionable. Just say that there is a portion of the trunk that is dead. If you carve the front and back, that might only leave one small section left to sustain the tree. Many trees do survive on just the one path. However, the more you have, the better. If your shari is small in the back, it may completely heal over in time. Which is what I would let it do.
Rob
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Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
Thanks rob. The cut was very small so you are probably right that it will heal over, it was nothing like the carving on the front. Either way, lesson learned.
october
Masterpiece
Your shari on the front was very well done. When you said you butchered it, I wasn't sure what to expect. You might want to treat it with lime sulfur. Protect the soil if/when you do. Also, let it dry for a 2/3 days in the sun before hosing that part of tree off. Sometimes, even after a day, the lime sulfur has not dried and hosing the tree off will cause the chemical to run down the trunk and into the soil. Lastly, use paint brushes with nylon bristles. They are more resistant to the lime sulfur.
Rob
You might want to treat it with lime sulfur. Protect the soil if/when you do. Also, let it dry for a 2/3 days in the sun before hosing that part of tree off. Sometimes, even after a day, the lime sulfur has not dried and hosing the tree off will cause the chemical to run down the trunk and into the soil. Lastly, use paint brushes with nylon bristles. They are more resistant to the lime sulfur.Rob
Nybonsai12
Masterpiece
Thanks Rob. I wasn't sure if my cuts were too sloppy or too big and I knew my wiring wasn't great. I am never really confident with the work I do on trees because it is all still very new as I haven't worked with a lot of trees. With time and more experience I'm sure that will change. But I am again appreciative of all the advice and info you and all the others constantly give to me. I do think you all have taught me a great deal and brought me a long way from where I started.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
For a first attempt you did WAY better then you described! The Lime Sulfur is a good suggestion but if you do like that white you might want to consider PC Petrifier http://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-16-oz-PC-Petrifier-Wood-Hardener-164440/100649629. It will preserve it and give you a subtle contrast. I think Vic used that or similar instead of the Sulfur on her Ponderosa Pine posted in general. It is also latex based so you can work on it without a Scott Air Pack 
Anyways just tossing out some options and kudos!
Grimmy
Anyways just tossing out some options and kudos!Grimmy
