Field-grown Black Pine Stock - Bad start for nebari?

[zeejet]

I recently obtained a field-grown black pine (15 gallon) with what looked like a solid base, but further below is a massively swollen and fused rootball. I didn't want to dig that deep at the nursery so took a gamble - it was only 70 bucks.

Is this still suitable material? If not, can it be salvaged (e.g. ground layered)? Or should I pass on it (give it away or donate to my club)?

 

[River's Edge]

I recently obtained a field-grown black pine (15 gallon) with what looked like a solid base, but further below is a massively swollen and fused rootball. I didn't want to dig that deep at the nursery so took a gamble - it was only 70 bucks.

Is this still suitable material? If not, can it be salvaged (e.g. ground layered)? Or should I pass on it (give it away or donate to my club)?

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It depends on your expectations for the tree. If you are looking for a pre bonsai with show quality potential then not a suitable choice.
If you are beginning with pines as I suspect you are, there is lots of room for improvement and learning with this inexpensive material.
There might be larger roots lower down for example. Some of the roots may be able to be teased out and create a stronger base over time.
Ground layering pines is not a reliable way to get great nebari, much more reliable with deciduous species.
The tree requires a lot of work in all aspects, so could be a great tree to learn on, but not the best choice if you were looking for better quality material to begin with. Not sure you could find something cheaper of that size to play with.
I have tp admit I am not a fan of donating poor material for club use.

 

[coachspinks]

I have a tree that has a lot of the same issues as yours. It has been great to learn on and it is starting to look like something; but it will never be show quality. Maybe because it was my first trees, it is also one of my favorites. Ironically, when someone who does not understand Bonsai visits, this tree is one that catches their eye first. Have fun with it!

 

[Coppersdad]

By starting with nursery stock like yours, I began a journey of learning about double flush pines and JBP trees specifically. IMHO, there is so much to learn!
@River's Edge gave you great advice. Enjoy your tree and learn.

 

[zeejet]

Thanks for the feedback so far - sounds like it'll be an educational subject rather than a precious long-term project. I suppose it does take pressure off of growing a difficult species and allows for some risks while learning.

In terms of cost, this is a cheap as they come for this size - JBP's tend to be expensive online (easily $150 to $200+ for a 15 gallon) and in most trading circles like FB auction pages. I also have a seedling I received for free during a workshop put on by my club so I'll get to work on something from the start as well.

 

[River's Edge]

Thanks for the feedback so far - sounds like it'll be an educational subject rather than a precious long-term project. I suppose it does take pressure off of growing a difficult species and allows for some risks while learning.

In terms of cost, this is a cheap as they come for this size - JBP's tend to be expensive online (easily $150 to $200+ for a 15 gallon) and in most trading circles like FB auction pages. I also have a seedling I received for free during a workshop put on by my club so I'll get to work on something from the start as well.

find someone with more experience ( local club perhaps) and explore the root ball further down. The amount of root you exposed appears to be a small amount compared to what a tree of that stage should possess. There may be better spread lower down that could be developed. The upper roots may not be the key factor. It is difficult to judge from your picture but I would check that out.

 

[Shibui]

For those looking on, this sort of root system is what you can expect if you plant a pine out of a small pot direct into the ground without sorting out the roots first. In any round pot the roots will circle the pot. When you plant that in the ground the roots don't magically straighten out, they just get fatter like the trunk above. They also fuse together as they thicken. You can probably see the shape of the original pot in the first photo.
Even planting the tree over a slab or tile won't help sort out those roots.
Whenever you plant any tree in the ground to grow, sort out the roots first if you expect good nebari.

Definitely explore the root ball fully to see what else you have to work with. If you're lucky there may be better nebari below the fused roots, in which case some of the wayward upper roots can be removed. Leave the others to continue to fuse. Eventually the spiral will be absorbed into the mass and become part of the lower trunk.

It should still be possible to get new roots to grow from those circling roots if you wound them or cut them short. Not a full layer, but enough damage to the upper roots to get a response. If you go this way, leave lower roots intact to keep the tree alive while it develops new roots from the upper section.

The branches appear to be better than many 'advanced' JBP. There's still needles on the branches which will allow for pruning to get back buds and ramification.

 

[mj_barb]

If it makes you feel better, my biggest regret purchase (a lot more than $70) was the pine below with the same issue. It was at the national show and I felt pressured as people were snatching up all the good stuff. It appears that it was root bound, and then slip potted without any root work, and then left to thicken. The picture isn’t great, but the base is horrible. I plan to put it into a pond basket this year and roughly do what Shibui outlined above.

Good luck, we live and we learn!

 

[Ja_De]

If asked for a suggestion, I'd offer... On a visit to a nursery have a wooden chopstick with you. Use it to dig down next to the tree base of a potential purchase. When done carefully this shouldn't be a problem and is not unreasonable when