Crepe Myrtle Double Trunk - Chop Advise

RobertB

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All,

I picked up this great myrtle last fall for 7$. I really like it and want to completely remove the long non-tapering third trunk. I am not sure on the type.

See also rough rendering of what i was thinking of "trying to accomplish". The blue lines show where i was thinking of chopping or whether i should cut back to around the red lines. I want this to be a pretty large tree one day to support the blooms.

This is the proposed front for now.

IMG_2006.jpg

Crape M 1 Study (1).jpg

Here are some other pics of.

The red line here shows removal of the third trunk. Have considered keeping. Its just bean pole straight.

IMG_2005.jpg

IMG_2007.jpg
 

bonsai-ben

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They heal, and shoot out, faster than a baby mama having babies. I'd chop it back the furthest. You can always grow a leader out to fix the taper in a season or two.
 
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bonsaidave

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Here is one I chopped in early 2017. It was in a 1/2 gallon nursery pot. There were zero branches under the chops. I sealed both trunks after chopping. I let it grow freely all of 2017.
The two trunks are about 6 inches and 2 inches from the soil. As you can see they back bud like crazy. The shorter trunk had 1 inch of dieback to that first thick branch going straight up. Tall trunk almost no die back.

I just repotted into shallower pot and bonsai soil today to begin development roots. Hope this gives you some ideas for your chop.

Good luck!

IMG_20180203_184938-1314x2399.jpg
 
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SU2

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They heal, and shoot out, faster than a baby mama having babies. I'd chop it back the furthest. You can always grow a leader out to fix the taper in a season or two.
I only got into Crapes late in the summer '17, I found that freshly chopped material (like trunk-chopped stock I brought home) would quickly send-out shoots like crazy but, if I ever pinched one (or if I waited a couple months til it was 2.5' long and pruned it back to a couple nodes), I *wouldn't* get another push of growth, has me real worried about how well these will lend themselves to dense ramification, have still not gotten any impressive growth on a 2nd-round shoot (a shoot grown off a grown-then-cut shoot), maybe it's just the seasons and my lack of specimen, guess summer will see an answer here!!
 

bonsai-ben

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I only got into Crapes late in the summer '17, I found that freshly chopped material (like trunk-chopped stock I brought home) would quickly send-out shoots like crazy but, if I ever pinched one (or if I waited a couple months til it was 2.5' long and pruned it back to a couple nodes), I *wouldn't* get another push of growth, has me real worried about how well these will lend themselves to dense ramification, have still not gotten any impressive growth on a 2nd-round shoot (a shoot grown off a grown-then-cut shoot), maybe it's just the seasons and my lack of specimen, guess summer will see an answer here!!

Yup, the deciduous part of the crepes. Right now, crepes in our area are dormant. Spring is coming.
 
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RobertB

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So when I chopped this, I think I should have also removed the small branch as the branch pushed buds before any buds formed on the chopped trunks. I'm sure they will bud out, might just be a little slow and / or weak this year. Next time, I should probably wait longer to chop, that way buds are pushing all over tree. Not sure if there is much difference. I did the chop earlier for my convenience as I had time to do it and work on the clean up sites, making my repot quicker.

I new this tree was going to be a Bit@#$ to repot as everyone can see that big nasty root in the earlier pictures I new I had to remove.

First picture is a pic of tree removed from the container with about half the rootball sawed off. I did this as I could clearly see the nebari.
IMG_2389.JPG

removed section..

IMG_2391.JPG

First pass at teasing out some perimeter roots.
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IMG_2393.JPG

Time to rinse..
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Tease out and saw another half off the root ball. Trying to get underneath the trunk and prep to screw to board.
IMG_2401.JPG

Now it was time to clip these heavy roots off while trying to leave as many as the medium size roots that I could that originated from a decent location on the trunk flare. Also time to remove large ugly root.

IMG_2404.JPG
Da@#$ I forgot to get photos of the tree after all the root pruning before I mounted to a board and straightened out some of the roots, pining only a few with nails.

Here is a pic as it was about to be placed in large grow box.
IMG_2407.JPG

More to be continued...
 

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RobertB

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Here are some close ups around base.

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Not the problem root gone with the lack of any other good roots in that area left.


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After all this I was pretty satisfied. I think Im going to like this tree one day. Here it is all potted up in what I would consider a pretty large grow box. I made sure plant deep enough to cover the roots pretty good for now.
IMG_2416.JPG

More to come in a few months.
 

SU2

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Here is one I chopped in early 2017. It was in a 1/2 gallon nursery pot. There were zero branches under the chops. I sealed both trunks after chopping. I let it grow freely all of 2017.
The two trunks are about 6 inches and 2 inches from the soil. As you can see they back bud like crazy. The shorter trunk had 1 inch of dieback to that first thick branch going straight up. Tall trunk almost no die back.

I just repotted into shallower pot and bonsai soil today to begin development roots. Hope this gives you some ideas for your chop.

Good luck!

View attachment 176502


I agree w/ you that they back-bud like crazy all along their trunks after a trunk-chopping, hell I trunk-chopped & collected this guy while dormant (taking no foliage w/ me) and today he's just booming:
19700603_141034.jpg
(note the hole in the back-side of the cavernous right-half of the trunk-stock, this is going to be a neat one!!)

Now, that ^ guy is growing WAY faster than a larger crape I collected last summer, that crape was allowed to grow-out its shoots (and boy did it!), I got 1 flower and then it went dormant / dropped leaves. Anyways, fast-forward to now, I recently did my spring-prunings and, when approaching his crape, I cut-back all of last-year's hardened shoots to 2 nodes apiece, figuring all the single shoots would start developing as shoots with 2 growing-tips....sadly and confusingly to me is that it's really only pushing growth from the top nodes on all the branches I'd cut-back....unsure how on earth it will be possible to ever develop branch-structure / ramification here, would greatly appreciate anything you could tell me about how to develop these (if you've already cut-back, which I assume you'd be doing now or soon, right?), if you happen to take pics I'd be real keen to see how you cut-back that thing so I can get an idea of how to develop these! Here's what I mean by getting growth almost entirely from the top nodes after having done my spring-pruning and letting it start growth (it's side-by-side w/ the earlier-mentioned collected cavernous crape, I'd taken the pic that way because the newly-collected crape's growth is like 2x as fast as the established crape's growth for some reason!!)
19700603_141104.jpg
 

SU2

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SO glad you did!! When I read that I was just thinking NOOO! The 3rd trunk is certainly worth keeping IMO!!

Do you have experience w/ further-developed crapes? I'm at a loss for how to develop ramification, I grew-out a bunch of shoots last year on a large collected crape and, when I did my spring pruning, I cut them back to 2 nodes each, expecting to get 2 new, thinner shoots coming from each of my shorter, wider shoots from last year- instead I got a bunch of new shoots from the top nodes, which is something that makes me confused about how one could ever develop any ramification (unless the idea is to prune back to *1* node each time? Then you'd basically be creating taper (but not ramification), albeit at an absurdly slow rate as it seems you cannot do this mid-season, any branches I tried pruning or pinching last year while it was growing (in hopes of getting the branch to back-bud) resulted in the branch just 'going dormant' and doing nothing :/


@bonsai-ben , you say
They heal, and shoot out, faster than a baby mama having babies. I'd chop it back the furthest. You can always grow a leader out to fix the taper in a season or two.
they certainly have no issue back-budding on their trunks after trunk-chops, however when it comes to those branches that grow-out, well, how on earth do you begin to develop structure/ramification? You'd mentioned that spring would be the time
Yup, the deciduous part of the crepes. Right now, crepes in our area are dormant. Spring is coming.
but if you look up 1 post (post #10) you can see a picture of 2 of my crape yammas, the left one was collected last year, allowed to grow-out un-checked (well, mostly- I pinched a branch and hard-pruned a branch, to see what'd happen, both simply ceased growing for the season) The 2-3' long shoots hardened off and just recently I pruned, I did a summer-pruning to set them up for this season's growth and I pruned all those lignified/hardened branches back to 2 nodes each, expecting to get (2) shoots / new terminal-tips on every shoot I'd grown last year- to my dismay (as you can see in the photo in post#10) the growth is almost exclusively coming from the top node of each shoot....how can I develop ramification if I cannot cut-back a thick shoot and get multiple shoots in return?

(posting the pic again as thumbnail in case you're replying via email!)
19700603_141104.jpg
 
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RobertB

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I've heard that ramifications can be difficult. Not there yet but open to listen and learn.
 
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SU2

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Ramification is easy. Just ignore the flowers. Grow, chop, ramify, grow, chop, ramify. Same as bougie.
This is where you lose me....if I go outside right now and pinch *any* bougie shoot, or clip any bougie branch, I'll get multiple buds starting to swell beneath it quickly - on the other hand, in the picture I posted up-thread with my crape from last summer, I cut those hardened-off shoots back to 2 nodes and it responded by giving me (mostly) just 1 new shoot (from the top node) on most of last year's growths....some branches did give me 2 new shoots but most didn't - should I have cut lower than the first node and hoped for epicormic buds to activate? Do you happen to have any progression-series of any you could share? I spent a bit googling 'bonsai crape myrtle' yesterday and am getting cold feet about their use in bonsai at least insofar as a traditional style (I can see the 'dense bush on a stump' look being ok for my thick one, it's probably all that can ever be made into anyways since it's such poor stock, but the one on the right-side of my pic is smaller and I wanted to be able to get ramification on a small-scale which, if they'll only back-bud from nodes, isn't going to happen - you'd really need to give-up on any small/medium sized crape bonsai and just do medium-large stuff where you can get the trunk // branching somewhat in-scale w/ each other!)

Maybe I've just pruned wrong, or at the wrong time? Last year when my fat one (the left-side one) was growing-out its shoots, I clipped a couple of them (expecting bougie-like behavior ie that I'd quickly have 2 growing tips where I'd once had 1) and the clipped ones just did *nothing*, they didn't back-bud or continue to grow, they just kept their leaves til fall and into dormancy.... I'm starting to experiment now, the smaller (right-side) one from my pic has 1 shoot that I pinched the tip off, and another that I pruned back to a couple nodes, just to see how it responds (thinking maybe it'll behave differently now than last year....don't have a lot of hope though)

Would be real eager to hear any specifics you can give me on how & when to prune, I can grow them out but just having trouble seeing how I'll get any decent ramification on a smaller specimen...really *any* specifics you'd be willing to share would be greatly appreciated!!
 

bonsai-ben

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SU2, it's nothing more than basics. Grow a branch. Give it a little wiggle when wiring it. Pop nodes out to the outsides of the wiggle not the insides of a curve. Pinch it to keep popping out buds. They lignify fast, and set faster.

Crepe Myrtles are not really ideal to be small trees. If you do, there are dwarf varities where the leaves -- and flowers -- are dwarved (by like 95% too) You work them the same, they are just smaller and actually ideal for Shohin and up to around 12" tall.

So, backwards from your bougie where you keep chopping and splitting the branch -- grow one branch long then grow the side branches from it, not new nodes. That seems to be the biggest hiccup in the process as you described it. When you want some flowers, let them lengthen then chop em off when done. Ignore the flowers while you are training.

It's about time to wire up some Crepes here in Orlando though, if you want to make a drive. Got 5 of them to do, one weighs 300 pounds. Plenty to do. :)
 

SU2

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SU2, it's nothing more than basics. Grow a branch. Give it a little wiggle when wiring it. Pop nodes out to the outsides of the wiggle not the insides of a curve. Pinch it to keep popping out buds. They lignify fast, and set faster.

Crepe Myrtles are not really ideal to be small trees. If you do, there are dwarf varities where the leaves -- and flowers -- are dwarved (by like 95% too) You work them the same, they are just smaller and actually ideal for Shohin and up to around 12" tall.

So, backwards from your bougie where you keep chopping and splitting the branch -- grow one branch long then grow the side branches from it, not new nodes. That seems to be the biggest hiccup in the process as you described it. When you want some flowers, let them lengthen then chop em off when done. Ignore the flowers while you are training.

It's about time to wire up some Crepes here in Orlando though, if you want to make a drive. Got 5 of them to do, one weighs 300 pounds. Plenty to do. :)

Thanks for the reply, I've got 2 crapes that are just flush with growth right now and I've got 3 test branches, 1 that's defoliated except the top 1", another that's gotten its tip pinched, and lastly one that was cut-back to 2 nodes - figured I'd just trial&error til I learned more concrete!!

When you say 'pinch to keep popping out buds', do you mean that for in-development (1yr old) specimen? Because of their apical dominance it seems they just ramify high-up, even if I were to grow the branches long and then grow the side-branches out (instead of cutting-back as I'd originally thought), won't I end-up with a canopy that's way too-tall, like hovering above the trunk? (that'd make sense with you saying they're not ideal for being small trees!)

I couldn't care less about the flowers right now, I guess I picture something like that blocky trunk on the left-side of my photo earlier as being a 'stump with flowers' eventually but it sounds like the canopy is going to be a foot higher than I'd planned if I'm just pinching (not that I can't just widen it to fix that, in terms of aesthetic balance)

Just so I can be sure I'm approaching it right, when you're saying to just grow-out my branches and pinch to pop buds, do you mean just tip-pinching? I don't want to be removing more if that's wrong (my intuition is that I should be pruning back further but it sounds like that's wrong, am very glad you've been replying here!!!), for instance on the crape to the left in that picture a few posts up, would the course of action be to let it keep growing, flower, then pinch-off? Or pinch tips when I see flowering starting? I'm fine w/o seeing flowers while developing this, just having trouble with when I should be pinching and want to be sure you mean tips-only (like the top 1/2" of a branch, then do the same on the secondary branches that emerge down-shoot from the pinch once they've grown-out a bit, right?)

Re wiring, for the 'flat top' stump on the left of my picture, I was picturing a wiring setup where all side/edge shoots got wired as horizontally as I can get them (they do lignify fast and are quite brittle compared to bougies!) and leave the center shoots growing upwards, so I can have a rounded canopy in the end - is that a good approach?


Thanks a ton for the help here, was having a lot of trouble finding hard answers about just how to pinch/prune (sounds like *never* prune, only pinch!) and the lack of ramified pics on google images had me worried, really exciting to read your reply here :D
 

SU2

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Oh and-
It's about time to wire up some Crepes here in Orlando though, if you want to make a drive. Got 5 of them to do, one weighs 300 pounds. Plenty to do. :)
I don't drive I bike, so that's more like a Greyhound trip than a drive, would absolutely be there in a heartbeat if I could, have only been able to meet 1 good bonsai'ist in real life yet (adam lavigne)

[edited-to-add: if you happen to take photos I'd love a chance to see!!]
 

bonsai-ben

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SU2 -- When you are happy with the branch thickness -- keep it chopped to length. The buds behind it will start to pop and branch out. Train those out and wire those in shape.

They dont really have any dominance, they respond to cutting them. Where you cut, buds come out. Where you cut, behind it, more buds come out and those turn into branches and fast.

One inch thick in a year. Easy. (for a branch, assuming you have a reasonable trunk)

No photos! I bought a YouTube camera setup instead. Will make a video when its time to start chopping mine, probably in 1-2 weeks at best. Yours probably started growing a little earlier than mine, as you're a quarter zone south
 

SU2

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SU2 -- When you are happy with the branch thickness -- keep it chopped to length. The buds behind it will start to pop and branch out. Train those out and wire those in shape.

They dont really have any dominance, they respond to cutting them. Where you cut, buds come out. Where you cut, behind it, more buds come out and those turn into branches and fast.

One inch thick in a year. Easy. (for a branch, assuming you have a reasonable trunk)

No photos! I bought a YouTube camera setup instead. Will make a video when its time to start chopping mine, probably in 1-2 weeks at best. Yours probably started growing a little earlier than mine, as you're a quarter zone south

Thank you!!

So to be sure I'm on the same page as you here, branch-structure in general for crapes is achieved by letting the shoots hit the height I want, then simply 'hedging' it at that height? (interestingly, that's precisely how Erik Wigert describes bougainvillea maintenance in his bougainvillea-development article- but bougies back-bud way more profusely than crapes, when I cut a bougie shoot I'll have buds popping beneath the cut, on the stem above the collar, and on / below the collar - when I cut a lignified / 4mo+ old crape branch to 2 nodes, I see 1 strong growth from the top node, a very delayed and weak growth from the second node (but that means it is happening :D ), and little else)

On the shoots that, while in active-growth, I either pinched a tip or defoliated the bottom 80% of a shoot, did this to probably 3 or 4 shoots between my two larger crapes, and got no distinct response (just a general branching that's occurred on the mid-nodes of the tallest branches that've ceased lengthening) So if I instead just let it get to my desired finish height, and then keep cutting it / 'flat topping' at that height, eventually enough nodes down-shoot will fill in? (that'd certainly make it a far simpler process! Just hoping to be sure I understand you, as I've had little luck with controlling growth patterns on these..)

And wow time flies I just realized how old this post was (apologies for the delay, I had too-many threads going and am finally catching-up / closing windows lol), but yeah mine were flying 3 weeks ago when you posted that, at this point they haven't really grown for at least 1.5wks, nothing noticeable really except for some branching occurring at the tops of the tallest shoots, can't tell if it's branching or preparing to flower (I've only seen them flower once so don't have a good eye for it, w/ a bougie I can see the lil bracts when they're like 1/4mm lol!!), but it's they both just grew-out ~2-2.5' max shoots and halted growing on height (did start putting out new shoots at nodes in the mid-area maybe 6"-->1' from the trunk), this halt is kinda bothering me tbh because I'm unsure if they're trying to start flowering or bush-out or what!

For my older one, ~1yr old and by far my thickest crape, what height would you suggest is in the ballpark for final-height, the height I should be cutting at? (and to be clear, even though shoots have grown and stopped lengthening / begun branching below my final-height, I shouldn't touch a thing- simply let them branch-out longer, until vertical growth resumes, and then when they reach that height I cut?) Love that it's such a simple approach (if I'm understanding you properly ;p), would truly appreciate your thoughts on height for this (obviously there's no ruler in the picture so general '5x the trunk's height' guesstimates would be hugely appreciated!! I just tried to take a more recent shot but my camera's display just died while turning it on to do so...for convenience here's the thumbnail again, I'm just clueless as to what height I should be thinking of as the 'final height' / cut-height:
a.jpg

Thanks again for the help, haven't found a lot on crape-development so really appreciate it :)

[edited-to-add: over time, I'd completely remove a good amount of the shoots on this guy, right? Like, as I let it branch-out, then (presumably) it's going to flower and then re-start vegetative growth, once the shoots are lengthening, have branches etc, I'm imagining that I'd want to remove some shoots from the trunk? Imagine it'd be far too bushy with this many shoots! And btw if you took any shots(vids, rather!) of yours I'd love to see them!! I'll figure-out a camera after work, my two large guys filled-in very well those pictures are just it getting-going lol, but yeah that left crape the blocky one it looks impossible to ever get any 'real' style out of it ie true primaries, seems like the 'best' approach is going to be 'bush on a stump' lol, I mean the trunk has such serious inverse-taper it's insane!]
 
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bonsai-ben

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I've got a new stock one that reminds me a bit of your left picture. It's time to put it in a pot and start hacking away and chopping shit off it. Again, I extend my offer to bring a tree to my home and we'll work it. I'm just a man, not a for-profit-bonsai-man if you catch my drift, nothing for sale.

It's rather hard to recommend a true chop point (often because it's multiple) and a pic is in 2D.

Wire crapes out/down/whatever first. The branches shouldnt really grow "up" unless you are just thickening it, in which case you'd still do it sideways then up like making a L with your elbow. Of course an apex grows up, but you grow those in a week, we're talking lowers and the branches people look at. :)

Come on over man, only a 70 minute drive. And I still have brown hair, too. ;)
 
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