Crabapple Rust/Fungal Issue?

roberthu

Chumono
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Location
Atlanta GA
USDA Zone
7B
I got these from Eric at Bonsaify last fall and they did great through the winter and this spring. But starting from last week, I noticed that the leaves turned brown and 2 of them progressed much faster than the other 4 which only had brown tips at the top while the lower branches aren't infected visually. I emailed Eric who promptly replied within a few hours (grade A customer care) and made a few suggestions. I think it's a fungal issue but still want to confirm on the forum just in case.
I am in Atlanta GA and our high is now over 85 for most days. Even though I water them thoroughly every day, so I am also think it could be sun burn?

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This was a bit of a fooler with some of the leaves dying from the inside out until remembered about apple scab.

First thing might do is cut all the affected parts off, get the trees in a drier spot and use copper or your favorite fungicide.

See this resource sheet.

Good luck
DSD sends
 
Pretty sure this is rust (CAR) on my crabapple...
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Considering selling it or giving it away as most of my collection is juniper.
Junipers get that terrible CAR orange jelly blobs that I cut out all affected foliage.
Also will probably remove the crabapple growing in my yard and burn it.
I like my juniper more than the crabs.
 
This was a bit of a fooler with some of the leaves dying from the inside out until remembered about apple scab.

First thing might do is cut all the affected parts off, get the trees in a drier spot and use copper or your favorite fungicide.

See this resource sheet.

Good luck
DSD sends
This was one of the possible causes Eric suggested too. I already sprayed copper today and hopefully that stops it. I did notice that one of the big cherry trees down the road has the same symptom and the leaf loss is massive. I am thinking that maybe where the spores came from.
 
Also having a lot of these problems this year too much rain. Removing infected parts and a bit more will be necessary (clean tools after each cut), keep in mind this can also be a bacterial problem so a fungicide won’t necessarily be effective.
 
This was one of the possible causes Eric suggested too. I already sprayed copper today and hopefully that stops it. I did notice that one of the big cherry trees down the road has the same symptom and the leaf loss is massive. I am thinking that maybe where the spores came from.

Cedar Apple Rust is named as the fungus spreads around a cycle described
fruit trees and Eastern Red Cedar and back or instead fruit trees and junipers on a two year cycle.

One could cut down one of the partner tree: fruit trees or ER cedar trees or juniper trees with in a mile and likely the disease would still spread.

Estimates range from 4-6 km to create a safety zone. So one has to learn to deal with the disease.

Some measures are: Drill ‘corner's’ of pots and chock up one edge of each pot all spring, spray copper at a minimum all spring to mid summer and maybe a couple times.

If affected cut off the branch to below the area.

Best
DSD sends


So one has to
 
CAR seems to be more manageable than people think. At least from the juniper side in my limited experience so far. Vigilance is key throughout the wet early spring but the early formation of a rust gall by no means has to be met with removing all of the foliage it is on. I had great success managing some spots on my ERC by painting fertilome 3 in 1 directly onto the affected areas. No signs of reformation afterward and the tree is extremely vigorous this spring. I also treated my crab with Bonide’s Infuse product on a biweekly cycle for a month and a half or so leading up to bud break and the first flush of leaves has been healthy up to this point. Just the 2 cents of a still early to this hobby contributor.
 
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