Colorado Blue Spruce fall repot survival question

[Jphipps]

Today I repotted a very large grafted Colorado Blue Spruce. Not ideal timing but I didn't have any other options and had to get it done.

It was balled and burlapped in 100% heavy clay. I did my best to try to salvage as many roots as I could but the clay kept breaking them off.

The tree is unfortunately very low on roots but has a massive foliage mass that I did not touch.

My question is, due to the huge discrepancy between roots and foliage mass, should I prune some of the foliage? It doesn't seem like the root system would be able to support all the foliage. I know the usual advice is to leave the foliage alone, but is this still the case with a very small remaining root system?

Any advice is much appreciated!

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Over the course of one or two years, the tree will drop whatever it can't support.
If you cut it off before it has the chance to decide, it might pick the remaining branches to kill.

 

[Forsoothe!]

Another lesson in buying the anti-bonsai. First, box yourself in with something in heavy clay that's intended to be plopped into an accommodating hole in the landscape. Next, screw-up the root system in a hurry out of season. Third, oops! There us no third.

 

[Cosmos]

The tree is unfortunately very low on roots but has a massive foliage mass that I did not touch.

My question is, due to the huge discrepancy between roots and foliage mass, should I prune some of the foliage?

No.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Agree, don't prune the remaining foliage.

You are in Washington state, and judging by your zone 8a, this suggests you are coastal or low elevation and in western Washington. This means your winters are mild compared to what Colorado blue spruce can endure over much of its range.

So given your mild climate, the spruce should be able to grow roots much of the winter. There is a good chance your spruce will be fine. Give it a chance to recover. Often after severe root work, a spruce may need 2 to 5 years to recover. The good news is blue spruce have a great indicator of health. The shiny blue new growth, affectionately referred to as "blue shiners". Do no pruning or other work on the tree until you have "blue shiners" on every branch tip and several along the branches interior to the tips of the branches. So when all your branches are like the one in the photo, it is time to begin work. Not before.

 

[Jphipps]

Another lesson in buying the anti-bonsai. First, box yourself in with something in heavy clay that's intended to be plopped into an accommodating hole in the landscape. Next, screw-up the root system in a hurry out of season. Third, oops! There us no third.

Thank you for the non-answer to my question. I was fully aware of all these risks but had an opportunity at a decent piece of material and took it. It was cheap and provided some good practice and might turn into something very cool. I was also not in a hurry the day of repot but it was a huge challenge with the clay. A challenge that I knew I was facing and was as careful as time would allow.

Thank you to everyone else with the helpful advice regarding future survivability.

 

[Paradox]

Honestly, it would have been fine sitting against your house, buried in mulch in its burlap bag.
One of the nurseries near me often just leaves trees out on the lot all winter in thier pots or burlap bags and most do just fine.

I agree with others, dont trim now and just hope it survives. Provide it with adequate protection. As Leo says, your winters are probably mild but the winter winds still could have a drying effect. Its roots are compromised so its ability to take up water will be compromised for a while.
Dont do anything else to it besides water and fertilizer (start that in the spring) for at least a year probably 2.
Dont overwater but dont let it get bone dry either.
Let it recover and dont touch it again until it is growing vigorously and I do mean vigrously, not just producing new growth.

 

[Jphipps]

I put it in a custom fit wooden box. Tied in tight and with 100% pumice. Sitting in an area protected from most wind and good sun exposure. Ready to sit and wait to see how it does.

Anyone have an idea how long it usually takes to see deterioration if there is any?

 

[Potawatomi13]

Some suggest bottom heat so roots grow and many a cool greenhouse. Maybe both if possible?

 

[Dav4]

The next time you reduce a B and B root ball, I recommend mainly using a running hose to wash away the clay, along with gentle chop sticking. It takes forever to get anywhere but much less trauma to the roots. Basically do a half bare root, though I do expose the tips of the roots of the entire root system, then get into a training pot to recover. don't remove any foliage. As for prognosis and signs of life or death, I'd guess you won't know anything until next spring, and I wouldn't do anything until it's growing strongly, which may take 3 years.

 

[Jphipps]

Thank you for the suggestions. I've been reading up on bottom heat set ups.

I definitely made a mistake not using a hose to reduce the clay. It would have been far less damaging and would have saved a lot more roots. I stayed away as I wanted to avoid washing roots on a conifer but in hindsight like you said Dav4, I could have still retained a lot of the original soil mass.

 

[PiñonJ]

If you don’t want to invest in a full heat bed, just by a single heat mat on Amazon an make a mini bed of pumice for that tree. Those mats say they’re not for outdoor use, but I kept one outside all winter without damaging it.

 

[Jphipps]

Would a heat mat from Amazon provide any actual benefit to the roots if it's placed under the wooden grow box I built? It's made from 1x6 material. My question/concern would be the heat actually penetrating through the wood compared to a plastic nursery container, etc.

Thoughts?

 

[PiñonJ]

It would take longer to equilibrate, but it will work.

 

[Forsoothe!]

We're taking your dictionary away from you.

 

[Jphipps]

Just an update on this tree. I'll post photos later.

The tree killed off several branches and thinned itself out a bit. I removed all the dead to allow more light to the interior. Nothing lost of any great value so that's good.

About a month ago, dormant buds started popping all over. Great sign for its survival and future development. My plan is to continue to do nothing but let it recover and hopefully start back budding over the next couple years.

Thanks again for the valuable advice I received.

 

[Potawatomi13]

It's ALIVE.

 

[Jphipps]

First photo of the tree when it was popped out of the ground still in its balled and burlapped state. A ton of foliage and crazy heavy. I couldn't move it on my own with that root ball so I was forced to repot it and reduce the weight last fall.... literally with it on my tailgate. It was probably a couple hundred pounds of solid clay.

Next 2 are current photos after I cut out all the dead foliage that died off due to the fall repotting. Close up photo of the new foliage that started popping about a month ago.

Very excited to see this one bouncing back. Plenty of development to be done to get backbudding and reduce the overall foliage mass in the coming years. For now I'm letting it continue in its recovery.