Chinese Elm Advice
- Thread starter Kimbonsai
- Start date
99 Mile Creek
Mame
Hi there! Welcome to Bonsai Nut.
How long have you had the elm, and where did you get it from?
Are you new to the hobby?
What are you watering habits (e.g., how often, how much, method of watering.)?
It gets regular sun, but how? What location is it positioned around your home? South-facing, east? Is it primarily kept inside or outside?
Maybe others can chime in based on the photo alone, but I think anyone would be hard pressed to give you accurate information and advice till you can answer those questions.
Also, there is a way for you to fill out your location in your profile so that any other posts you may make, others that share the same climate as you will be able to identify you give your area better advice based on your hardiness zone.
Hopefully we can get your situation figured out and your bonsai happier!
How long have you had the elm, and where did you get it from?
Are you new to the hobby?
What are you watering habits (e.g., how often, how much, method of watering.)?
It gets regular sun, but how? What location is it positioned around your home? South-facing, east? Is it primarily kept inside or outside?
Maybe others can chime in based on the photo alone, but I think anyone would be hard pressed to give you accurate information and advice till you can answer those questions.
Also, there is a way for you to fill out your location in your profile so that any other posts you may make, others that share the same climate as you will be able to identify you give your area better advice based on your hardiness zone.
Hopefully we can get your situation figured out and your bonsai happier!
Thank you for the reply and welcome!
I have had this bonsai for about 8 months. He was indoors for winter and brought him out about 1.5 months ago. Outside facing North. I water it when it is dry - water from the top. Usually this is about every 4 days but it varies if we had rain.
I have two other bonsais - Juniper and Ficus but I would say I am a novice. Have had the others for about 3 years.
I have had this bonsai for about 8 months. He was indoors for winter and brought him out about 1.5 months ago. Outside facing North. I water it when it is dry - water from the top. Usually this is about every 4 days but it varies if we had rain.
I have two other bonsais - Juniper and Ficus but I would say I am a novice. Have had the others for about 3 years.
99 Mile Creek
Mame
Great job getting it through your first winter!
Since it's in a north-facing side of your home, this may be why it isn't doing so great. The north side in the northern hemisphere will keep your tree in perpetual shadow -- if it is in fact kept near your home.
I would aim for a south-facing side of the home if at all possible. If you cannot, try for a southwest, or even southeast. If not, then west or east -- anywhere other than in the north.
Depending on your substrate (soil) used will determine how much water it's holding. Your watering needs will be different from someone else with the same specie but potted in a different substrate blend. Given that you've kept it in the north, I'd say that's also allowed you to water less frequently due to reduced evaporation.
Try and move your bonsai, the ficus and juniper too, to a better position so they can get some full sun. Be prepared for your substrate to dry out quicker due to this change. It should require you to water roughly once a day, but again, the soil that your trees are in can greatly affect how much water they will need -- so only water when they need it. You'll adjust to your new watering schedule in no time.
Also, try to let the substrate dry out a bit -- just to where the substrate is just slightly dry but not all the way (feeling about an inch deep) and then water again. Ensure that when you're watering, that you give it a good soak, though gently, with your hose or watering can. Allow the water to run clear from the bottom of the pot's holes, wait a few moments for it to drain, and then do this once more for good measure.
I would say you'll start seeing some improvement in about three weeks, if not sooner, after they are receiving the sunlight to produce more photosynthates (energy). Try giving that a go and checking out some videos on YouTube on bonsai care too. You may want to look into what a rootbound bonsai looks like, and then study on how to repot properly so you're prepared for the inevitable. If there aren't any signs of your trees being rootbound this season, try and shoot for repotting only when it needs it in the fall or in the spring (at the cusp of buds swelling).
Fertilizing might need mentioning, if you haven't yet. Typically, this is about once a month, though I don't personally fertilize in the summer. I'll start back up again and use a very mild liquid fertilizer in mid-August. But that's just me and you may want to do your own homework and come to your own conclusion. But be careful, your trees can develop root burn (chemical burn) from certain potencies. I personally use Dyna-Gro Bonsai Pro 7-9-5 during the spring, early and late summer, and into early fall.
Finally, if it were me, I'd let them recover from the lack of sunlight for the remainder of the growing season and forgo any sort of pruning or wiring to build up more strength, but again, that's just my two cents.
I hope this helps and hope to see some updates on your bonsai in the future!
Since it's in a north-facing side of your home, this may be why it isn't doing so great. The north side in the northern hemisphere will keep your tree in perpetual shadow -- if it is in fact kept near your home.
I would aim for a south-facing side of the home if at all possible. If you cannot, try for a southwest, or even southeast. If not, then west or east -- anywhere other than in the north.
Depending on your substrate (soil) used will determine how much water it's holding. Your watering needs will be different from someone else with the same specie but potted in a different substrate blend. Given that you've kept it in the north, I'd say that's also allowed you to water less frequently due to reduced evaporation.
Try and move your bonsai, the ficus and juniper too, to a better position so they can get some full sun. Be prepared for your substrate to dry out quicker due to this change. It should require you to water roughly once a day, but again, the soil that your trees are in can greatly affect how much water they will need -- so only water when they need it. You'll adjust to your new watering schedule in no time.
Also, try to let the substrate dry out a bit -- just to where the substrate is just slightly dry but not all the way (feeling about an inch deep) and then water again. Ensure that when you're watering, that you give it a good soak, though gently, with your hose or watering can. Allow the water to run clear from the bottom of the pot's holes, wait a few moments for it to drain, and then do this once more for good measure.
I would say you'll start seeing some improvement in about three weeks, if not sooner, after they are receiving the sunlight to produce more photosynthates (energy). Try giving that a go and checking out some videos on YouTube on bonsai care too. You may want to look into what a rootbound bonsai looks like, and then study on how to repot properly so you're prepared for the inevitable. If there aren't any signs of your trees being rootbound this season, try and shoot for repotting only when it needs it in the fall or in the spring (at the cusp of buds swelling).
Fertilizing might need mentioning, if you haven't yet. Typically, this is about once a month, though I don't personally fertilize in the summer. I'll start back up again and use a very mild liquid fertilizer in mid-August. But that's just me and you may want to do your own homework and come to your own conclusion. But be careful, your trees can develop root burn (chemical burn) from certain potencies. I personally use Dyna-Gro Bonsai Pro 7-9-5 during the spring, early and late summer, and into early fall.
Finally, if it were me, I'd let them recover from the lack of sunlight for the remainder of the growing season and forgo any sort of pruning or wiring to build up more strength, but again, that's just my two cents.
I hope this helps and hope to see some updates on your bonsai in the future!
Last edited:
dhelix33
Sapling
Quick question - There are specific environmental codes related to where a member here resides I have seen - How can I find and share this information about where my home is - Cary, NC?
dhelix33
Sapling
“HOW MUCH MORE GRIEVOUS ARE THE CONSEQUENCES OF ANGER THAN THE CAUSES OF IT.”
Marcus Aurelius
99 Mile Creek
Mame
Hi there!
I can only give direction for PC. From there, find your profile name and photo at the top right > Account Details > And scroll down on the right side, you'll see where you can put your hardiness zone identifier.
USDA has a hardiness zone map you can find *online.
Cary, NC is zone 8a
99 Mile Creek
Mame
I love that quote.
When combined with Epictetus's Dichotomy of Control, it prepares you for anything.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
A clear picture of the soil would help. This is most likely a watering issue. Soil is critical to success with that. Too soggy, root rot, too dry, root death. Both conditions present the same with top growth. In either case, the roots can't function well enough to transfer water to the leaves.
If your soil is old and compacted, that can leave roots too wet. If the soil mx drains very quickly it can dry out...
