Chaenomeles Speciosa 3-2-12

fredtruck

Omono
Messages
1,232
Reaction score
2,467
Location
West Des Moines, IA
USDA Zone
5
I've posted pictures of this tree over the past few years. Always, with this flowering quince, the issue has been to get it to flower more. This year, it has increased its blooming over last year by at least a third, so progress is being made. This quince is a division, separated from its parent plant in 2003. It is about 90 years old. Next fall, when I repot, I'll rotate it a bit so the front will be parallel to the pot.

Though I've enjoyed the recent postings on chojubai, I think ordinary quince are much more available and advanced in years for most enthusiasts. I'd like to hear from those of you who have garden-variety quince and what your experience has been.
 

Attachments

  • C. Speciosa 3-2-12.jpg
    C. Speciosa 3-2-12.jpg
    82.1 KB · Views: 164
I read somewhere where apparently there's a technique for developing no thorns, but that's all it said. Hopefully someone might know about this?
 
Well, one way to get rid of the thorns is to cut them off. Many enthusiasts do that.
 
Fred, so it's a continual process of cutting the thorns off as the plant grows? Simple enough ;)
 
Good stuff Fred! Maybe something blooming helps with the re-entry burn back to frigid IA!
 
Yes, it's been something else, from 82 F. to about 35 F. Hawaii was wonderful, but nothing for me gives the satisfaction of flowering bonsai in the late winter. Thanks, Brian.
 
Well, one way to get rid of the thorns is to cut them off. Many enthusiasts do that.

Have never had the pleasure of working with a quince...
But, with my bougainvillea, I cut the thorns and have notice that when I keep them as a bonsai, the thorns don't seem to return...
I would imagine it is a result of not just letting the plant go ???
 
Another way to look at the thorn problem is this: the standard way of managing growth of new shoots is to let them grow most of the summer. At that time, thorns are usually present near the end of the shoot. Then, you cut the shoot back to 1, 2 or 3 nodes. The thorns disappear with this process.
 
My flower beds and majority of bonsai are filled with japanese flowering quince. I quess you could referr to the landscape ones as "garden variety". I was smittened for many years with the vast variety before ever running across chojubai. It was the challenge to find something other than a start that got me going on them. My inside protected quince bonsai are either in bloom or showing color. The outside stuff shows swelling buds but no color yet.

When i work on my quince, I remove the thorns, and as fred suggests, the majority do go with the pruning after hardening. most quince I have do fruit, but I leave them on outside stuff but remove all but one or two on the bonsai. I loved the red blooming quince in the picture with gold pot. very rich looking. There was one year when michael haggedorn was my bonsai teacher that i scowered the area for one of his pots. I found one and he suggested something other than a quince to go in it. He lost :)
 
Another way to look at the thorn problem is this: the standard way of managing growth of new shoots is to let them grow most of the summer. At that time, thorns are usually present near the end of the shoot. Then, you cut the shoot back to 1, 2 or 3 nodes. The thorns disappear with this process.

Thanks Fred! I was wondering how I was to prune these as they just keep getting longer and longer right now. So I've made a note to myself to let grow till Aug/Sept and cut back hard. Much appreciated for that information Fred!!
 
Interesting question. With this one, there were no thorns.
Hi Fred, recently I acquired a speciosa like yours (craggy bark without thorns), it was described as pinkish red flower which I'm about to confirm but I guess due to this year funny mild weather it's actually leafing out first. Have u experienced that? Did you repot it early or waited for spring?
 
Back
Top Bottom