Boxwood: balance and the sleepy summer

[John in Toledo]

Do boxwood take a heat-of-the-Summer dormant rest?

This will play a roll in planning choices for me. Pruning for direction would seem to be ok at that time, since there'll still be time to lay down new growth and set new buds for the following spring before autumn arrives and days get shorter, and temps start to drop.

But how about dramatic stuff like rootwork/soil swap? Significant branch removal?

I've a collected tree living in a pot for only a month or so. The roots took a hard hit, but the shoot did not. So, I am a little concerned about getting early root/leaf balance set up for plant health. To make matters slightly more complicated, the plant came from dense and unforgiving NW Ohio clay. The roots needed to be rinsed. It was planted in fluffy commercial potting soil/succulent soil mix. It's all I had on hand, but I really wanted to get good flow-through for the water so the roots would want to push out to chase the water as it went by.

Folks say "the tree will never be as strong as when you collect it" Maybe, but beating it up unnecessarily seems rude and hurtful.

There is a sense of urgency around the need for balance for health, so as to give a good start.

So
- Don't sweat the soil. Baby the roots and hit the branches as hard as you've already hit the roots.
- Go for healthiest root bonsai soil, and hit the branches as hard as you've hit the roots.
- The roots will grow faster, and they are the earliest priority. Change the soil. Worry about the branches in late winter.
- Shut up. Pour a scotch. Draw a vision, and read about Japanese Black Pine seed growth. Feed the box, water the box, watch the box. Check back when next years snow starts to melt.

My gut says changing the soil will only slow the roots down and further challenge them to feed leaves. Don't do it.

My brain says that removing unnecessary branches (even thick ones) is more important to set both balance of need, and to lay structural groundwork for the tree's future skeleton. Do it soon. Maybe mid summer if the plant is looking good after leaving the ground for life in a pot.

My compassionate heart says that the tree will find it's way to balance better on it's own. Give it a year to catch it's breath.

So:
Q1 - Boxwood summer dormancy? If so, what types of work is prohibited (Wait. I know this one...it depends! Ok what does it depend on?)
Q2 - Establishing early balance between root and leaf at collection. Which system is likely to be more forgiving if either?
Q3 - Which scotch do you recommend?

 

[Anthony]

From what was said, there is supposed to be a balance of root to top
for boxwood.

Apologies, I hope someone with experience chimes in.

As I said all we have been doing is learning to grow.
If I can make some time I will image a few.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[John in Toledo]

From what was said, there is supposed to be a balance of root to top
for boxwood.
As I said all we have been doing is learning to grow.

Learning to grow and growing to learn. Right on @Anthony! Thanks for that!

It's a seemingly difficult choice matrix:

Timing: better now or midsummer or next spring?
Vs.
Action : soil or hard prune or both or wait?
Vs.
Does the recently collected nature of the box influence this choice? If so, then how?

If I take my own advice that "simpler is betterer", then waiting is best.
If I stress balance is health, then hard cut now., and change soil later. This is what my gut says. If this is true, then do it right now, or give the tree all spring and half of summer to breathe before doing the cut.

My rookie brain is trying to think like a boxwood that wants to be bonsai. Having a tough time sussing this one out. What's that line that Queen sings in Under Pressure? "Kick my brains 'round the floor."

 

[Anthony]

Simple get 5 to 10 small cheap boxwood and experiment.
Write it down.
Observe and learn.

Never experiment on the mother.

This why we grow cuttings.
Expendables.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[John in Toledo]

Thanks. Simple, thoughtful and deliberate wins.
Barriers for the tree is bad, barriers for me is bad.
I'm going with slow and flowing rather than fast and torrential. Pushing my power on the tree is about me and not about the tree.

If I slow down, the tree speeds up, and we balance each other.

After last frost, top comes off and roots stay. While I sit back, tree moves forward. Balance.

Tree will set me up for autumn.

Plus, top is a chance for me to learn cloning by rooting cuttings. Mother gives children.

 

[Anthony]

Are you a member of the Sorce's family
Good Day
Anthony

 

[John in Toledo]

Are you a member of the Sorce's family
Good Day
Anthony

Not sure about all that, but much of what he types resonates well with me. I've been getting and finding useful and friendly guidance here from lots of directions. I'm a member of Sorce's family insofar as he is a member of the Nut family.

 

[coachspinks]

While not as experienced as most I do have some experience with boxwoods. They are tough and forgiving.
Here in Georgia my boxwoods grow almost year round. I had several pushing new growth all winter. In the heat of our summer I position them so they don't get full sun in the afternoon. Sun in the morning and dappled in the afternoon.
A healthy, vigorous one can be repotted virtually anytime until very late summer. Care after repotting is important.
All this said, if you have a boxwood that you dug a month ago, leave it alone this year. Especially if it hasn't reacted badly to the dig. Next spring is when you can really get to work on it. Keep in mind that boxwoods grow in traditional potting soil/mixes all the time. It isn't ideal for bonsai but this year is about keeping the bush alive.

One thing - if you do suspect that the roots are staying in the clay and are not pushing out into the new soil/mix you can do an emergency repot.

 

[John in Toledo]

While not as experienced as most I do have some experience with boxwoods. They are tough and forgiving.
Here in Georgia my boxwoods grow almost year round. I had several pushing new growth all winter. In the heat of our summer I position them so they don't get full sun in the afternoon. Sun in the morning and dappled in the afternoon.
A healthy, vigorous one can be repotted virtually anytime until very late summer. Care after repotting is important.
All this said, if you have a boxwood that you dug a month ago, leave it alone this year. Especially if it hasn't reacted badly to the dig. Next spring is when you can really get to work on it. Keep in mind that boxwoods grow in traditional potting soil/mixes all the time. It isn't ideal for bonsai but this year is about keeping the bush alive.

One thing - if you do suspect that the roots are staying in the clay and are not pushing out into the new soil/mix you can do an emergency repot.

Great feedback, Coach. Clay is cleaned out so I think we're comfortable there. It's not even the pretty Georgia clay I dealt with when I was still living in Tallahassee, it's just a bland grey muck. The tree hasn't dropped it's leaves and keeled over, so I don't think it has reacted badly, but then again, we're still pretty wintery here and it hasn't really had to do much except the sorts of things I wouldn't see until spring anyway.

It does seem to be a tough sort of tree.

 

[lordy]

I havent been around much lately so just saw this thread. Hopefully my bit of insight is timely enough to help.
I have only kingsville boxwood(s) so not sure if they react the same as what I'll call landscape types.
Boxwoods in general are SLOW to do anything. So the need to jump to fix something is probably only perceived, not likely real. Summer sun and heat tend to cause a pause in visible activity.
I dug my kingsville from a former club member's yard where he was cultivating them for bonsai. Regular Maryland clay, full sun for decades, periodic lifting/root prune/replant. The structure was great, canopy full and large. Didnt take me long (2 years...) to figure out that they dont like full sun. That's why the foliage looked sickly (I was told by a notable left-coast master that it was thrips.) The first pic in a pot was the result when that master had his way with it at a club workshop...big mistake. Last pic is 4-6 years later and more what it looks like today. Did I mention slow?
After another couple years, I discovered they are prolific root makers. They respond well to heavy root pruning, but I preferred to handle the foliage with surgical precision, not a severe balance pruning. The canopy gets so thick that light has trouble getting inside (think hedge). I have not found that the canopy pruning needs to match the work done to the roots.
Patience. Pour that scotch. So far, I like anything starting with "Glen", and Famous Grouse.

 

[sorce]

Holy Toledo John in ....

Lol!

The existence of Boxwood SD is MOST of "Boxwood for Real". Read it!

I pruned all my Box yesterday...
And came up with a safety...
"When in doubt...cut back to the Summer Dormancy Nodes"

Hmmm.."The Broadleaf Mugo"...
Same Same .

Some notes on thoughts from yesterday.
....In Boxwood for Real.

Sorce

 

[John in Toledo]

@lordy @sorce

Thanks! I am embracing this boxwood vibe. (Thanks for the great shots of the tree!)

Boxwood for Real is my new hometown. Lots of info to dig through for the TiNaC tree. "Learn fast. Move slow." is my new mantra.

 

[sorce]

Learn fast. Move slow." is my new mantra.

That's some winning ass shit!

Sorce