John in Toledo
Mame
Do boxwood take a heat-of-the-Summer dormant rest?
This will play a roll in planning choices for me. Pruning for direction would seem to be ok at that time, since there'll still be time to lay down new growth and set new buds for the following spring before autumn arrives and days get shorter, and temps start to drop.
But how about dramatic stuff like rootwork/soil swap? Significant branch removal?
I've a collected tree living in a pot for only a month or so. The roots took a hard hit, but the shoot did not. So, I am a little concerned about getting early root/leaf balance set up for plant health. To make matters slightly more complicated, the plant came from dense and unforgiving NW Ohio clay. The roots needed to be rinsed. It was planted in fluffy commercial potting soil/succulent soil mix. It's all I had on hand, but I really wanted to get good flow-through for the water so the roots would want to push out to chase the water as it went by.
Folks say "the tree will never be as strong as when you collect it" Maybe, but beating it up unnecessarily seems rude and hurtful.
There is a sense of urgency around the need for balance for health, so as to give a good start.
So
- Don't sweat the soil. Baby the roots and hit the branches as hard as you've already hit the roots.
- Go for healthiest root bonsai soil, and hit the branches as hard as you've hit the roots.
- The roots will grow faster, and they are the earliest priority. Change the soil. Worry about the branches in late winter.
- Shut up. Pour a scotch. Draw a vision, and read about Japanese Black Pine seed growth. Feed the box, water the box, watch the box. Check back when next years snow starts to melt.
My gut says changing the soil will only slow the roots down and further challenge them to feed leaves. Don't do it.
My brain says that removing unnecessary branches (even thick ones) is more important to set both balance of need, and to lay structural groundwork for the tree's future skeleton. Do it soon. Maybe mid summer if the plant is looking good after leaving the ground for life in a pot.
My compassionate heart says that the tree will find it's way to balance better on it's own. Give it a year to catch it's breath.
So:
Q1 - Boxwood summer dormancy? If so, what types of work is prohibited (Wait. I know this one...it depends! Ok what does it depend on?)
Q2 - Establishing early balance between root and leaf at collection. Which system is likely to be more forgiving if either?
Q3 - Which scotch do you recommend?
This will play a roll in planning choices for me. Pruning for direction would seem to be ok at that time, since there'll still be time to lay down new growth and set new buds for the following spring before autumn arrives and days get shorter, and temps start to drop.
But how about dramatic stuff like rootwork/soil swap? Significant branch removal?
I've a collected tree living in a pot for only a month or so. The roots took a hard hit, but the shoot did not. So, I am a little concerned about getting early root/leaf balance set up for plant health. To make matters slightly more complicated, the plant came from dense and unforgiving NW Ohio clay. The roots needed to be rinsed. It was planted in fluffy commercial potting soil/succulent soil mix. It's all I had on hand, but I really wanted to get good flow-through for the water so the roots would want to push out to chase the water as it went by.
Folks say "the tree will never be as strong as when you collect it" Maybe, but beating it up unnecessarily seems rude and hurtful.
There is a sense of urgency around the need for balance for health, so as to give a good start.
So
- Don't sweat the soil. Baby the roots and hit the branches as hard as you've already hit the roots.
- Go for healthiest root bonsai soil, and hit the branches as hard as you've hit the roots.
- The roots will grow faster, and they are the earliest priority. Change the soil. Worry about the branches in late winter.
- Shut up. Pour a scotch. Draw a vision, and read about Japanese Black Pine seed growth. Feed the box, water the box, watch the box. Check back when next years snow starts to melt.
My gut says changing the soil will only slow the roots down and further challenge them to feed leaves. Don't do it.
My brain says that removing unnecessary branches (even thick ones) is more important to set both balance of need, and to lay structural groundwork for the tree's future skeleton. Do it soon. Maybe mid summer if the plant is looking good after leaving the ground for life in a pot.
My compassionate heart says that the tree will find it's way to balance better on it's own. Give it a year to catch it's breath.
So:
Q1 - Boxwood summer dormancy? If so, what types of work is prohibited (Wait. I know this one...it depends! Ok what does it depend on?)
Q2 - Establishing early balance between root and leaf at collection. Which system is likely to be more forgiving if either?
Q3 - Which scotch do you recommend?