Azalea root graft/nebari development

[Mbpauley]

A couple weeks ago I picked up this azalea and at this point I've got kind of a vague idea of how I'm going to style it, but the first thing I would like to work on is the root spread. Obviously I won't be doing any of this work for a few months, just wanted to plan things out in advance. It has fairly nice nebari on one side, but on the right side there is a gap that needs to be filled. Having a) never done any kind of grafting before, and b) never done any really significant work on an azalea like this at all, I'm wondering how well it will take a root graft or two. Would it be a safer bet to notch the base in that area with some rooting hormone and pack on some sphagnum moss instead? How large of a scion could I successfully graft on without it looking odd?

I'm planning on layering off the bottom, thickest branch, and I may use parts of it for these root grafts. It doesn't really show up well in the picture, but the main trunkline actually does sort of a counterclockwise corkscrew while that lowest branch just juts straight out. It just doesn't really fit, and there are plenty of other branches that can fill the space it leaves.

Lots of questions... I know... I have several books describing the process of root grafting, but I'm having trouble finding anything relating specifically to azaleas there or here on the forums. I also have one other azalea (not really worth posting) so I've come to understand most of their basic care needs.

Thanks for taking the time to read, I appreciate any advice I may get.

 

[jk_lewis]

A close-up photo of the bad base would help. My guess is that a graft for an azalea would take quite easily; they propagate readily from cuttings and layers that it would seem to follow.

However, you maybe could also consider simply wiring an existing root into that position???? A pic wold help.

 

[Poink88]

What variety is it?

I am also interested since I have a "clump" azalea (possibly indica) I am planning on separating later and it would be great if I can graft roots at the chop areas...or maybe just encourage growth there (almost like ground layer) before the separation.

 

[Mbpauley]

Jkl,
I'll get some better pictures either tomorrow or Saturday, I'm out of town at the moment. There actually is a root in that area, but the problem is that it crosses from the left to the right underneath one of the roots I intend to keep. Luckily it isn't visible on the left side of the root, so I could just cut it out from the right. Hard to explain without the picture. The roots diverge, one underneath the other, at a right angle. There aren't any other roots that start high enough on the trunk in that area to be able to wire it into place.

Poink,
I can't remember exactly what variety it is, but it's written down at home somewhere. I do know that the flowers are mostly white with a little pink here and there. Maybe 2-2 1/2" across.

 

[Brian Van Fleet]

Don't forget that those heavy bases are comprised of many roots that have fused together over time. This base doesn't look flawed, from what the photo shows. If you feed with organic cakes, pack the area with cakes and it will grow roots into the area and eventually knit together.

 

[Mbpauley]

This is the trouble side I was talking about. Sorry about the picture quality, the only camera I have at the moment is the one on my phone and it's raining today. I was mistaken, there are actually two fairly well developed roots in that area, but both are growing at kind of a weird angle from the trunk, parallel to each other. I have no idea if I would be able to wire the less egregious one into a better position.

Brian,
I don't have fertilizer cakes, but that isn't really a problem. If I were to avoid doing a root graft, would using the method you described be more effective than cutting the base in a few places and applying rooting hormone and sphagnum moss? There are also a bunch of little cut scars where suckers from the base weren't removed before they thickened, and I was hoping that some root grafts might hide them, at least a little bit. Although I could easily make it much worse by trying to do so...

Also, I was wondering... Would the fact that Azaleas are base dominant have any effect on how well a root graft takes? Since the plant naturally directs energy there would it have a higher success rate than apically dominant plants?

 

[Ris]

I wouldn't do any root grafts just give it time and those roots will develop much better.
The cuts will heal over but need to be sealed with the ''playdo'' looking sealant.
Place it next spring in another pot shallow but wide for new roots to spread this will allow the
thicking or base. I add pine bark in my kunama mixture with like 5% peatmoss and liquid
fertilizer early spring before blooming then after bloom about 1 month.

Best regards,
Rishi.

 

[Mbpauley]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think I'm going to see what results I can get without attempting any root grafts. I guess I was just getting eager to try some technical stuff, but I realize I was getting a little ahead of myself. When I repot, I will remove one of the two roots on that side and encourage new roots by cutting the base and applying rooting hormone and moss. I will update with results in some months when there is some progress. I probably will also start a thread when I get to the actual styling of the tree.

 

[Mbpauley]

Oh also, I found the little receipt from when I purchased it. It is a satsuki azalea, "kahoku notsuki".

Also, I'm assuming that I will need to wait until early spring to attempt to encourage new roots with a few cuts, rooting hormone, and moss, is that right? Will roots form at all over the winter? We don't really have hard freezes where I am so I don't think there's much chance of damaging the new roots.

 

[Mbpauley]

So here it is after the initial styling. It's hard to tell from this picture, but the thickest trunk (before the first branch) actually is leaning somewhat sharply about 2 1/2" towards the camera. The soil is a little mounded up on the opposite side, so next year I will have room to repot it leaning back a bit more. I haven't done anything about the gap in the roots on the right side. Unfortunately, the plant is fairly 2-dimensional even in person because most of the foliage that was originally in the back came from a branch that was much thicker and straighter than the rest. Had to go. Luckily I've already noticed a bud popping in that exact spot, right where I want it.

 

[Mbpauley]

Also, I apologize for the messy wiring, still getting the hang of it...