Asking for styling suggestions for my new Japanese maple.

[IllinoisSam]

This J. maple is from Brussel's. The base of the trunk is about 3/4" in diameter and the distance from the soil to the first bend is about 6". I'm trying to imagine what to do with this thing. It's in the usual bonsai nursery S shape and I'm not fond of how straight the bottom of the trunk is. I've only had it for a couple of weeks, so the only thing I've done so far is to slip pot it and start fertilizing it. I was thinking about air or ground layering it to put the first bend closer to the soil.

I guess if I tilted it and pulled the top of the "S" down it might look more interesting. What do you think?

Thanks.

 

[RODERLO]

I think you may consider aiming for a much shorter tree than the current length.

It’s the ever ongoing cliché here - but you may consider airlayering the top half off.

In terms of then creating interesting movement in your two new trees, I’d be looking at using a side branch as a new leader.

 

[Paradox]

I was thinking the same thing.
You could air layer the top half off and get rid of the 'S' and have 2 trees.

However before you consider that, you need to ask yourself if you like the trunk thickness as it is now or would you like it thicker?

If you want it thicker, don't air layer now. Leave it to grow and get thicker. Air layer when you're happy with the size of the trunk. Air layering before then will slow down growth significantly and it will take much longer to grow the trunk bigger.

 

[Shibui]

Before setting out to create another horizontal branch 'bonsai' shaped Japanese maple please consider possible more natural style for your bonsai JM. The natural shape for JM is ascending main branches with gentle movement that then curve outward to form the 'branch' pads. This trunk has potential already with the gentle bend and good low branches. Like most young JM it is stronger at the apex so will require some thinning and reduction up top. Picking a good spot to reduce the apex may also take away some of the S bend.

 

[IllinoisSam]

Thank you all. Good things to contemplate.

Sam

 

[GSN]

could be green, red, or any color you wanted.

 

[GSN]

That trunk has to be thick enough for it to grow properly. This is my only advice.

 

[clem]

I prefer to tilt the tree to highlight the concavity of the trunk, rather than its convex side because the convex side of the trunk is less elegant (belly), than the concave side.



Anyway, for me , the weak point of your tree, is that the base lack of tapper, so the tree's rooting seems weak, the tree lacks a foundation, solid rooting.

With a good nebari (after air layering) your tree will be far better imho ->

 

[IllinoisSam]

I prefer to tilt the tree to highlight the concavity of the trunk, rather than its convex side because the convex side of the trunk is less elegant (belly), than the concave side.
View attachment 549382


Anyway, for me , the weak point of your tree, is that the base lack of tapper, so the tree's rooting seems weak, the tree lacks a foundation, solid rooting.

With a good nebari (after air layering) your tree will be far better imho ->
View attachment 549383

Thank you for taking the time to mark up my photos and clearly illustrate your thoughts. I was hoping someone might do that. Very helpful, and I will continue to reference this post over the coming years. I'll save them in my Bonsai Album database.

 

[pandacular]

A rather sloppy virt, that I made before seeing @clem ’s which I quite like. Blue line is for airlayering, at roughly that angle. Now is a great to air layer, and you can continue growing the top to add some taper to the design. I you leave the top on to add girth to the part you keep, it will result in a larger wound and less taper.

Also agree with clem on air/ground layering the base to work on the roots, but you never know whats hiding under the soil!

 

[clem]

A rather sloppy virt, that I made before seeing @clem ’s which I quite like. Blue line is for airlayering, at roughly that angle.

Good idea to airlayer on the blue line : you could get 2 very different trees with a good movement of the trunk (if the airlayer is a succes) ->

 

[Darth Masiah]

Good idea to airlayer on the blue line : you could get 2 very different trees with a good movement of the trunk (if the airlayer is a succes) ->

nice virt. that's exactly what i thought of doing, too.

 

[GSN]

the tree trunk could straighten up instead of being tilted( in my opinion.)

 

[IllinoisSam]

Good idea to airlayer on the blue line : you could get 2 very different trees with a good movement of the trunk (if the airlayer is a succes) ->

View attachment 550228

Do you think a tree could handle two air layers in series, like your markup? Or a year between?

 

[Gabler]

Do you think a tree could handle two air layers in series, like your markup? Or a year between?

I'd do them one at a time.

 

[clem]

Do you think a tree could handle two air layers in series, like your markup? Or a year between?

I don't know, i never tried ^^ I only airlayer small JM branches in spring (100% succes so far)

 

[leatherback]

Do you think a tree could handle two air layers in series, like your markup? Or a year between?

Assuming each section has sufficient active growth on them, yes, it can be done in series. Best to also have an active branch feeding the roots though

 

[Shibui]

Best to also have an active branch feeding EACH SET OF the roots though

Just in case that wasn't obvious from the previous post.

 

[leatherback]

EACH SET OF

Just in case that wasn't obvious from the previous post.

Fair poiint, and yes, each to-be-grown set of roots need a solid amount of actively growing branches in direct 'bark-connection'.. but..

.. It was not the point I tried to make. I really meant, have a branch feeding the roots that are there now. Producing roots takes energy, and having no foliage feeding the current roots will drain them of energy. not a real issy with standard airlayers. I have however found that layers take better, certainly when in series, if there is also foliage feeding the existing rootball.