Anyone ever use a sledgehammer to create deadwood features?

BillsBayou

Chumono
Messages
788
Reaction score
2,245
Location
New Orleans, Louisiana
USDA Zone
9a
Hulk no carve. Hulk smash.

What if the heartwood of a trunk was pre-shattered when it came time to carve it out?
What if I didn't CUT off the top of a bald cypress and instead, smashed the cut line to a pulp using a sledgehammer?
What if I had access to quarter sticks of dynamite?

Trees, wood in general, will fracture along natural lines when under stress. In bonsai, the problem with carving deadwood into a perfectly healthy tree is that we are taking whole, healthy trunks and artificially creating damage. There are plenty of great bonsai carvers out there doing great things with deadwood. But in general, there are plenty of us, me included, who cannot make the best deadwood on our own. A least, not out of healthy living wood.

That's where I began when I thought "What if the wood were pre-shattered?" The outer layers of the trunk are relatively healthy and full of vigor. Yet the long-term goal is to utilize the shattered heartwood to create more realistic deadwood features. When it comes time to carve a hollow, we remove the outer layers of living cambium and sapwood. We open a hole/hollow/gash just large enough for our design. Pliers and gouge tools can be used to find loose inner wood that may be easier to remove than wood that has been left whole. Stripping lengths of inner wood can be done with smaller holes than we would need to use in order to insert grinding and carving tools.

My thoughts then looked to ways of creating shattered heartwood. Guns, sledgehammers, pneumatic chisels, and explosives came to mind.

Bear with me. I have no idea if pre-shattered wood could be created. I have no idea if it would truly create better deadwood features. I have no idea if any species of tree would survive such a brutal treatment. I do, however, have ideas that I want to test.

A good start would be to begin with a species that can recover from my seriously f'ed up imagination. Larger yamadori would offer the best results as well as potentially being more able to withstand the torture. A selected tree should measure 3-4 inches (7.5-10cm) and have a healthy solid core. Then just dig it up. Wrap the trunk with raffia. Use a sledgehammer to pulp the trunk just above where you would normally cut the tree. Use the same sledge to crack the trunk in a few places.

Things to consider when pulping instead of cutting:
  • How far down towards the base of the tree would the damage go when pulping the cut line?
  • I doubt I could cut through the trunk by pulping the cut line. More likely, I'll reach a point where it looks pulped enough or I have a heart attack from swinging my sledgehammer.
Thinks to consider when cracking the trunk:
  • The heartwood should crack without the cambium coming away from the trunk on all sides (girdling the tree).
  • Sapwood is necessary for water transport. How the hell will the tree respond with areas of shattered sapwood?
  • Raffia won't do the trick. This will likely take bicycle inner tube rubber to hold the trunk together during it's beating.
  • Raffia could be used to wrap the trunk after cracking it. Adventitious buds can break through raffia easier than inner tube rubber. I've seen adventitious buds break through vet wrap, but it looks like an ordeal.
  • For good fracture of the trunk, the trunk will need to be elevated on a durable surface to compensate for the root ball and base of the tree.
  • The surface holding the tree should have a piece of plywood beneath it. Just thick enough to buffer the blows without creating a detailed outline of the surface opposite the striking face.
  • Do I crack the heartwood along just one side of the tree? If I rotate the trunk to continue cracking, how far do I rotate the tree?
  • Should I smash the front, sides, or back of the tree?
  • Large yamadori can be split into two as part of its development. That's typically done with sharp tools. Using a blunt instrument like a sledgehammer could get a similar result but with a very different look to what remains.
Putting the sledgehammer down, the next pre-shatter tool is a handheld long-distance hole puncher. Using hollow points ammunition on a bald cypress likely isn't a problem in Louisiana. We are allowed to target practice in open fields in certain areas. Just shoot responsibly and you will be fine. I could try doing this but you fiends would want a video of me doing it. Documenting this sort of behavior would be a good question for an attorney. I'll offer an alternative. What if I can find a tree that has been repeatedly struck by teeny tiny meteorites. "That's the only way I could describe the damage. I'm certain this could not have been caused by hollow point ammunition. No, that's not a bullet lodged in the trunk. That's the remains of a copper-jacketed asteroid. There's no audio in the video because I forgot to turn on the external microphone. Just imagine 'pew pew pew' as you watch the meteors strike the tree."

With sledgehammers and handheld freedom devices ruled as potential tools, I'll now turn to explosives. These are not really a viable option for Mr. Bill. First off, I know nothing about licensing and regulation of explosives. Second, I don't like the idea of jail. Third, I don't have, and don't want access to explosive devices and/or compounds. How to acquire or make these things is not and will not be found in my search history. There were rumors that I created an incendiary device in middle school that could be triggered by spitting into it. I assure you, that's just a rumor.

There you have it. My latest dumb/crazy idea. These kinds of things pop into my head all day long. Sifting through all that garbage to find something worth trying is hard work. By the way, placing highly radioactive glass next to seedlings had a significant impact on the number of seedlings I now have. Pond cypress, taxodium ascendens, had the most problems with it.

Here's another thought: What if we didn't rely on God to teach us how to create jin? What if we trusted that to a Lichtenberg machine? A short, sharp, shock.
Note to self: Find transformer for neon sign. Electrocute first, copper wire second. Keep feet dry.

Upcoming Schedule
September: Look for a meteor-struck trees.
January: Bludgeon some poor helpless trees within an inch of their lives.
March: Irradiate more seedlings.

Meanwhile, I'll be watering trees with icewater to see if my false-color thermal camera can pick up any reaction. I'm trying to identify living tissue beneath the bark.
 
Researchers in Florida stimulate clouds to produce lightning by firing rockets into clouds. A spool of copper wire connects the rocket to the ground as it soars upwards. What if, instead of anchoring the wire to the ground, it was wired to the top of a developing bonsai that happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time?
 
Ha. I don't know about guns or sledgehammers but I think Wigert's had a good idea with a chainsaw.
 
Bach in the 90s there was this guy selling jeans that he had shot with his shot gun. (A sort of post stone wash craze innovation).

I don't see why a bonsai couldn't be aged in a similar way.
 
OK.
1. Sledgehammer: Not a good idea. I've sledgehammered a few trees (not for bonsai though), the back budding is unpredictable. The crack sometimes go all the way down the trunk and the trunk rot show up much later. Psst: I really didn't use a sledgehammer but I think a Chinese Chui is very close to be a sledge hammer.
2. Bullets are not a very effective carving tool unless you use 50 cal. At $2.50 per bullet, you need a very fat wallet to carve a tree. Plus you better have a very good scope and a well sighted gun otherwise your bonsai is shot.
3, Lightning is not good either. Initially there are very cool patterns going all the way up the trunk. However, the inside of the tree is often boiled and the tree dies.
4. Explosive. Any farmers who have used it to get rid of stumps will tell you that no one has mastered the math of estimating the amount to use on a tree.
5. A cool one to try is to drill an angled hole into the trunk, wrap some sodium metal in oiled butcher paper and slide it down the hole. Step far away from the tree and spray in with a garden hose. I am not sure what would happen, but it will likely be a bit more violent than Peter Chan with an axe against Japanese Maple.
6. Bullet and tannerite combo is an intriguing choice.

I got so many ideas :D
 
Last edited:
I was actually thinking about this the other day. What about the spray from a shot gun, at fairly close range? Not a lot of experience with BC but when it comes time to prune my junipers it's usually just tearing, ripping and crushing for me
 
I was actually thinking about this the other day. What about the spray from a shot gun, at fairly close range? Not a lot of experience with BC but when it comes time to prune my junipers it's usually just tearing, ripping and crushing for me
I watched my father take down a small tree with a pump action shotgun and double aught shot. Maybe my ideas are genetic.
 
OK.
1. Sledgehammer: Not a good idea. I've sledgehammered a few trees (not for bonsai though), the back budding is unpredictable.
Unpredictability is the goal.
...I think a Chinese Chui is very close to be a sledge hammer.
"Dear Bonsai Santa,
I've been a good boy this year. Please bring me a Chinese Chui."
2. Bullets are not a very effective carving tool unless you use 50 cal. At $2.50 per bullet, you need a very fat wallet to carve a tree.
"And anything in the 50 cal category"
...
6. Bullet and tannerite combo is an intriguing choice.
"And a can of tannerite.
Sincerely,
Billy"
I got so many ideas :D
When I started reading, I thought you were trying to discourage me. When I finished my reading, explosives are suddenly back on my "techniques" list as well as my "shopping" list.

I had a manager in California who told me the differences between primary, secondary, and tertiary explosives. As well as their use in home "remodeling". It was a casual discussion, not a practical one. I didn't try to memorize his step-by-step tutorial. My hands are just fine the way they are. God gave me 10 fingers and he's going to want them back.

You people are a bad influence.
 
Last edited:
I would be very careful this kind of thing. I'd think the impact shock from a sledge, or heavy caliber bullet, buckshot (12-gauge slugs might be more applicable 😉) might significantly damage the root mass
 
All my suggestions are in jest. I would not recommend anyone of them.
 
When I first started bonsai, it was all about trying to make money and i had so many crazy methods. I started a 'step on me' garden where I planted 8 dwarf ilex that the boys were instructed to walk on and crush anytime they felt like it. Most started looking like good candidates in less than a year, I dug up and styled somewhat and sold the best one for over $150 which made me think it was easy to make money. Soooo wrong.
 
What if the heartwood of a trunk was pre-shattered when it came time to carve it out?
What if I didn't CUT off the top of a bald cypress and instead, smashed the cut line to a pulp using a sledgehammer?
What if I had access to quarter sticks of dynamite?

Trees, wood in general, will fracture along natural lines when under stress.

That's where I began when I thought "What if the wood were pre-shattered?" The outer layers of the trunk are relatively healthy and full of vigor. Yet the long-term goal is to utilize the shattered heartwood to create more realistic deadwood features.

My thoughts then looked to ways of creating shattered heartwood. Guns, sledgehammers, pneumatic chisels, and explosives came to mind.

I don't think this will work how you think it will.

None of these things are any more natural or realistic than techniques used already.

The potential for doing damage you don't want would be to risky with the things mentioned. Pounding on a trunk with a hammer will reverberate through the wood and probably cause more extensive damage than desired.

Current techniques use much more control over what is going on.
 
I recall seeing a video of someone use a sledgehammer to create a jin on a thick trunk once upon a time. Unfortunately, I don’t recall the source. If I remember correctly, they’d already cut the trunk and let the stub they planned to jin dry out well in advance of the sledgehammering. So, the dry wood was more brittle and amenable to fracturing than green wood would be.

I’m still not sure I’d be willing to try it on a tree I really liked.
 
My favorite video moment of bonsai is one where Walter Pall talks about removing some deadwood on a tree, then gets a hammer, walks up to the tree, and busts off a large part of the wound. And he left it like that, like well, that's fine, that's all i wanted for now.
So very boss.
 
My favorite video moment of bonsai is one where Walter Pall talks about removing some deadwood on a tree, then gets a hammer, walks up to the tree, and busts off a large part of the wound. And he left it like that, like well, that's fine, that's all i wanted for now.
So very boss.
He's a big fan of getting hammered.
 
Back
Top Bottom