M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
I've been slacking lately.
Another small table.
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PiñonJ
Omono
Yep...
I think this was the first-draft title of the Led Zeppelin song.
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A thought came to mind about how your Internet friend was making his dowels and it occurred to me that is might be going and buying those 1/16" bamboo BBQ skewers from the dollar store and dying them to a colour that suits the material that he is mimicking... really, who would care, and who would go to the trouble to find out?
BUT, I still think that you can easily make what you need by hand.
BUT, I still think that you can easily make what you need by hand.
Velodog2
Chumono
@SKBonsaiGuy I will take a shot, but I still don’t believe that would be a practical way to make enough doweling for some tables that have them all the way around like a picket fence. These stands take too much time to make as it is, not that I don’t enjoy it. It sounds like you have some lengthy (and interesting) experience with woodworking yourself!
As for faking it with bamboo, that is probably realistic and possible although I’d start with the ubiquitous poplar dowels and stain them to match. I don’t know what is available in the Netherlands. His stands are quite high quality and he has a love for the wood (Frary?) which leads me to believe he wouldn’t use subterfuge, but this could also be why he won’t divulge his ‘secret’. Perhaps he does carve them by hand. There are dowel making devices out there, but not for the small sizes we require. I’ll just avoid dowel-heavy designs unless they are of walnut.
As for faking it with bamboo, that is probably realistic and possible although I’d start with the ubiquitous poplar dowels and stain them to match. I don’t know what is available in the Netherlands. His stands are quite high quality and he has a love for the wood (Frary?) which leads me to believe he wouldn’t use subterfuge, but this could also be why he won’t divulge his ‘secret’. Perhaps he does carve them by hand. There are dowel making devices out there, but not for the small sizes we require. I’ll just avoid dowel-heavy designs unless they are of walnut.
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Oh, I didn't say anything about "how long" it would take you... ha ha
Another way to do it since you already have the draw plate, would be to go and cut a length of suitable wood (from a tree, thats in the ground, not dead.) It wouldn't have to be large. If you're working on a walnut table, go cut a walnut sapling (One thats as straight as possible). Use a knife like the old Bodgers used to and split the wood lengthwise in 1/2, then 1/2 those 1/2s and knock the 3 edges down on each so you have a somewhat "roundish stock" (Called a billet). Sharpen one end and thread it through the plate, clamp a set of Vice Grip pliers to the wood that has been threaded through. Put the plate in a vice and pull like hell on the vice grip. "Green wood" will pull through the draw plate remarkably easy. The trick is to have clear stock. (No knots or imperfections).
You could either air-dry the dowels afterward, or if you want to use them in short order, you'd boil them in water (which reduces the water content) and makes them highly pliable for a short time. (See: steam bending)
Either way, you're going to want to devise a way so they stay straight.
Wood will shrink more radially than tangentially, so your little dowels might not be perfectly round, but I think they'd be close enough.
Because of the shrinkage issue, you might want to use a hole that is a fraction of an inch larger than your desired finished product... once they are dry, you might try drawing them through the desired size hole to finish them off... this will also "sand" them at the same time.
Of course, if you can get the proper diameter poplar dowels, everything is already done for you... in an earlier post, I took you to say that you can't get cheap stock from a hardware store that is under a 1/4"... hence the "Green Woodworking Method".
You'd do yourself a huge service to go to the library and see what they have on Green Woodworking.
Mike Abbott's book is very good:
https://www.amazon.ca/Green-Woodwork-Working-Wood-Natural/dp/0946819181
as is Drew Langsner's
https://www.amazon.ca/Green-Woodwor...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NFFRVX5RP9K2YFFGKT9W
They have remarkably easy and inventive tricks that have been lost to the power saw Gods, simply because we can force the wood to do what we want... when we can't get what we want, the best thing is to revert to what worked for thousands of years before Dewalt and the others came along.
If you REALLY want to get fancy, you could delaminate some Hoop Ash (Black Ash) and weave your table tops like baskets... but I doubt you have that kinda time, nor ambition.
Another way to do it since you already have the draw plate, would be to go and cut a length of suitable wood (from a tree, thats in the ground, not dead.) It wouldn't have to be large. If you're working on a walnut table, go cut a walnut sapling (One thats as straight as possible). Use a knife like the old Bodgers used to and split the wood lengthwise in 1/2, then 1/2 those 1/2s and knock the 3 edges down on each so you have a somewhat "roundish stock" (Called a billet). Sharpen one end and thread it through the plate, clamp a set of Vice Grip pliers to the wood that has been threaded through. Put the plate in a vice and pull like hell on the vice grip. "Green wood" will pull through the draw plate remarkably easy. The trick is to have clear stock. (No knots or imperfections).
You could either air-dry the dowels afterward, or if you want to use them in short order, you'd boil them in water (which reduces the water content) and makes them highly pliable for a short time. (See: steam bending)
Either way, you're going to want to devise a way so they stay straight.
Wood will shrink more radially than tangentially, so your little dowels might not be perfectly round, but I think they'd be close enough.
Because of the shrinkage issue, you might want to use a hole that is a fraction of an inch larger than your desired finished product... once they are dry, you might try drawing them through the desired size hole to finish them off... this will also "sand" them at the same time.
Of course, if you can get the proper diameter poplar dowels, everything is already done for you... in an earlier post, I took you to say that you can't get cheap stock from a hardware store that is under a 1/4"... hence the "Green Woodworking Method".
You'd do yourself a huge service to go to the library and see what they have on Green Woodworking.
Mike Abbott's book is very good:
https://www.amazon.ca/Green-Woodwork-Working-Wood-Natural/dp/0946819181
as is Drew Langsner's
https://www.amazon.ca/Green-Woodwor...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NFFRVX5RP9K2YFFGKT9W
They have remarkably easy and inventive tricks that have been lost to the power saw Gods, simply because we can force the wood to do what we want... when we can't get what we want, the best thing is to revert to what worked for thousands of years before Dewalt and the others came along.
If you REALLY want to get fancy, you could delaminate some Hoop Ash (Black Ash) and weave your table tops like baskets... but I doubt you have that kinda time, nor ambition.
Velodog2
Chumono
Ah yeah, now I remember you from a thread last spring! You posted some great videos of a cooper and wheel smith and others. You’d said you were going to be away for a while, so I guess welcome back is in order, and thanks again for the interesting comments and inputs. I’m with you on the things lost to the power saw concept, in terms of appreciation at least, but I don’t know if I will ever embrace some of the old techniques except possibly where it’s the only solution.
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Ya, thats right... I come and go, and if I didn't get bored so often I'd just go.
Anyway, the one thing that I failed to mention in that last post was, if/when you make your billets to pull through the draw plate, you start with the one closest to the size of your stock that you're starting with... then successively go down to the desired diameter... but I'm certain that you'll find the solution that your seeking. Good Luck.
Anyway, the one thing that I failed to mention in that last post was, if/when you make your billets to pull through the draw plate, you start with the one closest to the size of your stock that you're starting with... then successively go down to the desired diameter... but I'm certain that you'll find the solution that your seeking. Good Luck.
Velodog2
Chumono
Well thanks again for all your inputs. I have access to a lot of green walnut to try this with although I don’t know if I’d get the dark heartwood if I started w something too thin. Then again what I’d most need this for is more exotic woods which I def would not have access to green. Anyway you’ve given me a lot to think about.
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Not to drag this out further than we've already come, but here is a video on splitting wood. There are a few things that he does, that I learned not to do.
If you get green wood, either throw it in a rain barrel right away, or slather the end of the log with wood glue to slow down the drying process... I prefer the rain barrel.
Splitting wood with a froe is much easier than using hatchets. (Lee Valley Tools, or they can be made from a truck leaf spring) At 21:50 he uses a Japanese tool to split off the sapwood... the froe is very similar in size and shape, but the handle allows you to apply pressure (to one side) to have been able to split that sapwood off cleanly... but it takes practice.
Apply physics when splitting any wood... if you keep the same or similar mass on each side of the split you're making, the crack will run true (unless you have poor wood). (I see he did explain this about 13:20)
At the 12:00 minute mark he is trying to work around a knot... for your purposes this is a total waste of time and takes a lot of skill, and the result will always be unsatisfying... cut that stuff out.
To me, walnut IS an exotic wood... IMHO, you're stepping over gold bars, to go pick up horse turds... (But you are right, if you want the darker heartwood, you'll have to pick on a bigger tree.)
Wood will always split increasingly easier as the temperature drops, plus you don't sweat as much.
If you're splitting longer pieces (like 4 footers), wedges are handy; often, even wooden wedges suffice. Contact with metal will discolour some woods (particularly woods that have high tannin content, like oak. Given that you intend to draw the billets through the draw plate, you might want to keep this in mind.
Unlike this man, you probably only want to work with pieces that are 18" - 2'... it's a LOT easier the shorter the log is, and given that your dowels are not likely to be more than 3" in length a 2 foot log would work.
By the end, his video pretty much covers the topic... splitting saplings with a knife wouldn't be a lot different.
By the end, his video made me smile, because he's making axe handles. By the time that I made one or two of them, I was pretty good at swinging an axe or a hatchet. And once I realized how much effort it takes to make one by hand, I was much less likely to break one in the first place.
If you get green wood, either throw it in a rain barrel right away, or slather the end of the log with wood glue to slow down the drying process... I prefer the rain barrel.
Splitting wood with a froe is much easier than using hatchets. (Lee Valley Tools, or they can be made from a truck leaf spring) At 21:50 he uses a Japanese tool to split off the sapwood... the froe is very similar in size and shape, but the handle allows you to apply pressure (to one side) to have been able to split that sapwood off cleanly... but it takes practice.
Apply physics when splitting any wood... if you keep the same or similar mass on each side of the split you're making, the crack will run true (unless you have poor wood). (I see he did explain this about 13:20)
At the 12:00 minute mark he is trying to work around a knot... for your purposes this is a total waste of time and takes a lot of skill, and the result will always be unsatisfying... cut that stuff out.
To me, walnut IS an exotic wood... IMHO, you're stepping over gold bars, to go pick up horse turds... (But you are right, if you want the darker heartwood, you'll have to pick on a bigger tree.)
Wood will always split increasingly easier as the temperature drops, plus you don't sweat as much.
If you're splitting longer pieces (like 4 footers), wedges are handy; often, even wooden wedges suffice. Contact with metal will discolour some woods (particularly woods that have high tannin content, like oak. Given that you intend to draw the billets through the draw plate, you might want to keep this in mind.
Unlike this man, you probably only want to work with pieces that are 18" - 2'... it's a LOT easier the shorter the log is, and given that your dowels are not likely to be more than 3" in length a 2 foot log would work.
By the end, his video pretty much covers the topic... splitting saplings with a knife wouldn't be a lot different.
By the end, his video made me smile, because he's making axe handles. By the time that I made one or two of them, I was pretty good at swinging an axe or a hatchet. And once I realized how much effort it takes to make one by hand, I was much less likely to break one in the first place.
Velodog2
Chumono
I am fascinated by this type of wood craft that works with the woods natural dynamic properties as it dries and ages. However to be honest I’m more interested in using wood as a static material to be machined as precisely as I can with the tools available to bring to life designs I envision. I’m interested in refining the design process to make my proportions correct and the results elegant, as well as long-lasting, which does require some ability to work with the wood’s propensities.
I want to recreate classic design motifs, as I’ve done with this table, with increasing complexity, but also to experiment with some new design ideas I’ve floating around in my head that may require techniques I’ve yet to develop or master. I may miss a mark or two on those designs as I may have on a previous table I posted where the top may have been too thick, a chronic design problem I’m rectifying, but with perseverance I’ll get there.
I like walnut. It’s a common wood here. In fact the wood for this table came from a tree in my front yard struck by lightning, and I have more from another blown down in a hurricane. It can be beautiful if figured, but otherwise I just like its chocolate brown color. It’s fibers are a bit stiff, brittle, and coarse for carving but it’s workable. It’s not as coarse as mahogany it doesn’t appear. I’ve got some morado (Bolivian rosewood) but honestly the grain pattern is too large and bold I think to work well on a bonsai table. And really the wood can’t or shouldn’t be the focus of a bonsai table as it can’t distract from the tree being displayed, so I may have exaggerated my desire for using exotics. However, I would also like to design some full-sized furniture such as side tables and would like to combine the morado with hard maple (Truly one of my favorites. My living room floor is this in variable width planks with some figuring) for contrasting shades.
I’m getting too old to do well the sports I’ve loved all my life and have a hard time doing things at all if I can’t do them well. So I’m looking forward to exercising and developing an entirely different part of my body. Sorry if this strayed far from your post but I just needed to put up this little manifesto today, lol.
I want to recreate classic design motifs, as I’ve done with this table, with increasing complexity, but also to experiment with some new design ideas I’ve floating around in my head that may require techniques I’ve yet to develop or master. I may miss a mark or two on those designs as I may have on a previous table I posted where the top may have been too thick, a chronic design problem I’m rectifying, but with perseverance I’ll get there.
I like walnut. It’s a common wood here. In fact the wood for this table came from a tree in my front yard struck by lightning, and I have more from another blown down in a hurricane. It can be beautiful if figured, but otherwise I just like its chocolate brown color. It’s fibers are a bit stiff, brittle, and coarse for carving but it’s workable. It’s not as coarse as mahogany it doesn’t appear. I’ve got some morado (Bolivian rosewood) but honestly the grain pattern is too large and bold I think to work well on a bonsai table. And really the wood can’t or shouldn’t be the focus of a bonsai table as it can’t distract from the tree being displayed, so I may have exaggerated my desire for using exotics. However, I would also like to design some full-sized furniture such as side tables and would like to combine the morado with hard maple (Truly one of my favorites. My living room floor is this in variable width planks with some figuring) for contrasting shades.
I’m getting too old to do well the sports I’ve loved all my life and have a hard time doing things at all if I can’t do them well. So I’m looking forward to exercising and developing an entirely different part of my body. Sorry if this strayed far from your post but I just needed to put up this little manifesto today, lol.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I want to see your interpretation of a Shohin Box.
You ever draw one?
Still fighting the "go dark" power?
Sorce
You ever draw one?
Still fighting the "go dark" power?
Sorce
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Well, without getting long winded, I'll throw it out there that you may be at a crossroads ATM.
But first I want to comment on the wood selection: I'm glad to hear that you don't want the table to distract from the bonsai... not everyone would take that view. When was the last time that you went out and ate a meal and said, "That food sucked ass, but hey!... did you see the design or pattern on those plates?"
Now the bad part, and I know that I've said (or hinted at this before). Lets use the guy in the video above as an example who makes ash baskets. He fells the tree (likely from his own woodlot), sections the wood (lower trunk only), chops the rest up for fire wood, debarks the log, submerges it in a river or stream (for about 6 months), then begins to pound on it to delaminate the growth rings... on and on and on, until he finally has a basket that he can sell for $16.00 to someone who is amazed by his skill. He could go to Cobelas and buy one (I'm exaggerating here) for $12.00 and never have to have done the work, harvest a tree from his property, acquire all the tools, or break a sweat.
YOU (for what you are describing) are going to have to spend a pretty penny for a table saw to get the precision that you want (the perfectionist part)... the last one I saw that I thought was "kinda nice" was $5,000.00 if my memory serves correctly... and thats only for one tool!... AND, the people who see your work (no matter how well it's done or how amazing it looks) are going to want to pay you a fraction of your input costs.
Here is my view, and I don't intend on disparaging anyone, or hurting anyone's feelings:
Unless you really want to make tables for yourself, for a really good tree or trees that you intend on showing, you're probably going to cost yourself a lot of money. People are going to be more than willing to take them off your hands, but what are YOU going to get... what did Picasso (or any of the other famous painters) get for a painting during his or her lifetime? If your trees are not going to win at the State level, does "perfection" have to be a necessity? I could go on and on, but I think you'll understand what I mean...
IMHO, if you put the same amount of time and effort into making a kitchen table, every time someone came over to your house, you'd get your "reward" (in comment)... once you make a bonsai table and sell it, that reward is gone.
But first I want to comment on the wood selection: I'm glad to hear that you don't want the table to distract from the bonsai... not everyone would take that view. When was the last time that you went out and ate a meal and said, "That food sucked ass, but hey!... did you see the design or pattern on those plates?"
Now the bad part, and I know that I've said (or hinted at this before). Lets use the guy in the video above as an example who makes ash baskets. He fells the tree (likely from his own woodlot), sections the wood (lower trunk only), chops the rest up for fire wood, debarks the log, submerges it in a river or stream (for about 6 months), then begins to pound on it to delaminate the growth rings... on and on and on, until he finally has a basket that he can sell for $16.00 to someone who is amazed by his skill. He could go to Cobelas and buy one (I'm exaggerating here) for $12.00 and never have to have done the work, harvest a tree from his property, acquire all the tools, or break a sweat.
YOU (for what you are describing) are going to have to spend a pretty penny for a table saw to get the precision that you want (the perfectionist part)... the last one I saw that I thought was "kinda nice" was $5,000.00 if my memory serves correctly... and thats only for one tool!... AND, the people who see your work (no matter how well it's done or how amazing it looks) are going to want to pay you a fraction of your input costs.
Here is my view, and I don't intend on disparaging anyone, or hurting anyone's feelings:
Unless you really want to make tables for yourself, for a really good tree or trees that you intend on showing, you're probably going to cost yourself a lot of money. People are going to be more than willing to take them off your hands, but what are YOU going to get... what did Picasso (or any of the other famous painters) get for a painting during his or her lifetime? If your trees are not going to win at the State level, does "perfection" have to be a necessity? I could go on and on, but I think you'll understand what I mean...
IMHO, if you put the same amount of time and effort into making a kitchen table, every time someone came over to your house, you'd get your "reward" (in comment)... once you make a bonsai table and sell it, that reward is gone.
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I should also add... IKEA wouldn't be in business if they couldn't build a kitchen table cheaper than you can, so dollars wise, it doesn't even make sense doing that... but I know, you like woodworking and thats what makes it worthwhile.
Velodog2
Chumono
@sorce Lol. Resist the dark side, I was always told by the movies. But I know. Next time.
You’ve mentioned the shohin stands before, and I have spent some time considering them without really coming up with anything compelling. One can either go classic, or clever. I’d probably do something classic. I’m thinking.
@SKBonsaiGuy I’ve gone through that thought process many times already trying to figure out what it is I’m trying to do, as little tables begin to pile up in my shop. My current conclusion is to build for the joy of creating and don’t worry about getting value. My “buddy” in the Netherlands holds the same view. Sell for market price if you sell at all but get satisfaction from making and hopefully seeing them in a show w a good tree. I know some folks who have some trees to show but they need larger tables. So a goal is to work my sizes up. Also, that’s where full sized furniture can come into play. Arty one-off stuff like that can sell for very good prices. Not worrying about it now. Learning and improving skills is ultimately where I get happies from so I should be good for a while.
My saw is an above-average Jet inherited from my father, now w a brand new table. Should be good enough. There are undoubtedly better, and then you can even get into cnc machines, but I can keep it reasonable.
You’ve mentioned the shohin stands before, and I have spent some time considering them without really coming up with anything compelling. One can either go classic, or clever. I’d probably do something classic. I’m thinking.
@SKBonsaiGuy I’ve gone through that thought process many times already trying to figure out what it is I’m trying to do, as little tables begin to pile up in my shop. My current conclusion is to build for the joy of creating and don’t worry about getting value. My “buddy” in the Netherlands holds the same view. Sell for market price if you sell at all but get satisfaction from making and hopefully seeing them in a show w a good tree. I know some folks who have some trees to show but they need larger tables. So a goal is to work my sizes up. Also, that’s where full sized furniture can come into play. Arty one-off stuff like that can sell for very good prices. Not worrying about it now. Learning and improving skills is ultimately where I get happies from so I should be good for a while.
My saw is an above-average Jet inherited from my father, now w a brand new table. Should be good enough. There are undoubtedly better, and then you can even get into cnc machines, but I can keep it reasonable.
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
I'm sure not trying to push you...
Except for where I see this progression of a feller who at one point, was looking to decorate a studio...to now, where, he may end up with a studio decorated with product!
In fact, I only want you to make dark because, well, like this, "useable size" BS about pots!...LOL...you have this..."useable color" thing to overcome as a Standsman.
Just as I will continue to make Shohin Pots until people are forced to accept the fact that they can use them to create stunning Shohin Box tales.....No matter the color of the pot. ..
That said .. I'm more about game changing than fitting into molds!
I kinda want one of these light stands just to begin an attempt to build a display that Makes a light stand fall into a visual place and feel that is equal, or more pleasing than a Dark stand.
Don't stop doing what you do....
But at some point, you are not going to be able to see your studio....
Amd you may be left in a situation where you can get a Guinness record...(not Lance's one) for the dude who kept himself warm with The Most Expensive, time consuming firewood there ever was!
Surely, you weren't given this gift to keep it to yourself.
Sorce
Turn them on a lathe?
Very nice work by the way. I have a mini table saw and other power tools for making wood models. I always thought it would be interesting to try to make small stands.
Velodog2
Chumono
@sorce Well, since I’ve switched to lacquer I’ve been getting a nice chocolate brown color that isn’t as light as it shows in my poor fotos. Still not as dark as traditional stands tho. I’m not really trying to sell these particular efforts so I’m not worried too much about it.
And I’ve only made ten tables so far. One was a commission that was made to spec for design and size, and I made it darker as well. But there’s no rush to sell more. Someone suggested I rent space at the National Arboretum sales tent this spring to display my samples and distribute business cards to generate orders. It’s a great idea really, but I just don’t quite feel ready. I would, if nothing else, like more samples of more diverse sizes.
I admire what you’re been doing with your pots and am enjoying watching you evolve those. And I always appreciate your comments and insight!
@mcpesq817 Thank you! I think the little 1/8 dowels I need would be too difficult to lathe, even if I knew how to use a lathe at all.
I’ve seen those little table saws and considered getting one. They would be ideal for the size tables I’ve been making and I encourage you to try it! It feels silly, and even a little dangerous to be using this large high-powered table saw I have to cut these little, almost match stick sized pieces I’m sometimes using. I find mayself sometimes using two different push sticks to manipulate the stock and keep my hands far enough from the blade. Developing the cutting techniques are part of the learning curve.
And I’ve only made ten tables so far. One was a commission that was made to spec for design and size, and I made it darker as well. But there’s no rush to sell more. Someone suggested I rent space at the National Arboretum sales tent this spring to display my samples and distribute business cards to generate orders. It’s a great idea really, but I just don’t quite feel ready. I would, if nothing else, like more samples of more diverse sizes.
I admire what you’re been doing with your pots and am enjoying watching you evolve those. And I always appreciate your comments and insight!
@mcpesq817 Thank you! I think the little 1/8 dowels I need would be too difficult to lathe, even if I knew how to use a lathe at all.
I’ve seen those little table saws and considered getting one. They would be ideal for the size tables I’ve been making and I encourage you to try it! It feels silly, and even a little dangerous to be using this large high-powered table saw I have to cut these little, almost match stick sized pieces I’m sometimes using. I find mayself sometimes using two different push sticks to manipulate the stock and keep my hands far enough from the blade. Developing the cutting techniques are part of the learning curve.
Velodog, if you are interested in model-size power tools, I would highly recommend you look at the tools offered by Jim Byrnes. I own his tools, and while pricey, they are built like tanks with absolute precision. I fully expect them to last the rest of my life:
http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com
You can also look at www.micromark.com - those tools are cheaper, but they are Chinese and everyone I've heard that owns one (I build model wooden ships as a second hobby) wishes they spent a little more for Byrnes.
For lathes, you have to decide whether you want one that can turn metal and wood, or one that can just turn wood. Sherline makes very good model-sized lathes that can turn metal/wood (www.sherlinedirect.com). If you are just looking for a basic wood-turning lathe, I would highly recommend the Proxxon DB250. It's small and really easy to use. I had one and loved it, but upgraded to the Sherline (I kinda wish I kept the Proxxon for how easy it is to set up and use though). Lathes get expensive quickly when you start factoring in the extra add-ons, but for the Proxxon, all you really need would be a 3-jaw and/or 4-jaw chuck. If you are looking for something to make dowels (or thin down dowels), I think the Proxxon would work very nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-3702...qid=1521812495&sr=8-1&keywords=proxxon+db+250
Velodog2
Chumono
Oh my ... those machines are nice! That table saw would be absolutely perfect for the size tables I’ve been making and probably a joy to use! That lathe looks like it could actually do a small dowel as well, if I kept it short enough to prevent flexing too much. Thanks!
Almost all my equipment was inherited from my father who aspired to making furniture but died before he got too far into it. He made some stuff tho. The equipment is a mish mash of quality with some very good and some very cheap. One of his less wise purchases in my opinion was one of those Shopsmith monstrosities. I have it now and it does function as a lathe but far too large probably. He made some tables using spindles he turned. I use it as a drill press, router, and drum sander. He also liked ship models, but just from kits. Good kits tho. I have a nice one he made of a clipper. He was quite talented at carving. The pinewood derby car “we” made was beautiful. Sorry, I’m getting nostalgic.
Almost all my equipment was inherited from my father who aspired to making furniture but died before he got too far into it. He made some stuff tho. The equipment is a mish mash of quality with some very good and some very cheap. One of his less wise purchases in my opinion was one of those Shopsmith monstrosities. I have it now and it does function as a lathe but far too large probably. He made some tables using spindles he turned. I use it as a drill press, router, and drum sander. He also liked ship models, but just from kits. Good kits tho. I have a nice one he made of a clipper. He was quite talented at carving. The pinewood derby car “we” made was beautiful. Sorry, I’m getting nostalgic.
Nice, my uncle had a Shopsmith. Probably a bit overkill when building small tables.
If you use the Proxxon, you can always cut down dowels. I'm not an expert on lathe work by any means, but the shorter the piece, the less wobble. You can buy things to help stabilize the turned piece along the way - I have them on my Sherline, but not sure if you can get them with the Proxxon. Proxxon also makes a bigger metal-turning lathe that gives you more options/components. For simply thinning down dowels, I bet if you you could put 4-6" dowels in and the piece would be very stable. I was turning dowels 8" or more in the Proxxon for masts and spars and had no issues.
Sorry, didn't want to hijack your log on power tools. Tools are fun toys whether you're doing bonsai, model work, etc. Happy to take this in PM if you prefer.
If you use the Proxxon, you can always cut down dowels. I'm not an expert on lathe work by any means, but the shorter the piece, the less wobble. You can buy things to help stabilize the turned piece along the way - I have them on my Sherline, but not sure if you can get them with the Proxxon. Proxxon also makes a bigger metal-turning lathe that gives you more options/components. For simply thinning down dowels, I bet if you you could put 4-6" dowels in and the piece would be very stable. I was turning dowels 8" or more in the Proxxon for masts and spars and had no issues.
Sorry, didn't want to hijack your log on power tools. Tools are fun toys whether you're doing bonsai, model work, etc.
Happy to take this in PM if you prefer.
