Another small table.

Velodog2

Chumono
Messages
950
Reaction score
2,065
Location
Central Maryland
Another 5x7 walnut stand that may be my nicest effort yet. I made three different feet and two different table tops before I was happy with the proportions, but it was worth it. Rubbed lacquer finish. I’m getting a nice little pile of tables accumulated.
A2C7F513-02CC-439E-BA96-7AD2967CFAB6.jpeg
And speaking of tables, I finally got a new one for my table saw as the old one was dished out a couple millimeters, which was enough to throw off compound angles too much to make triple miter leg joints. Once I get the thing back together doing those will be next on the agenda.
 

TomB

Omono
Messages
1,139
Reaction score
6,843
Location
S.E. UK
Lovely clean lines. I like the curve under the top.
How do you shape the legs incidentally - scroll saw?
 

Random User

Guest
Messages
1,313
Reaction score
1,168
Nice... I always find (when it comes to woodwork) making larger pieces is somewhat easier than making small ones... if you can do the small ones well, the big ones will be easy.
 

Ingvill

Shohin
Messages
292
Reaction score
362
Location
Norway
USDA Zone
6
Ooooh this is a beauty!
 

Bonsai Nut

Nuttier than your average Nut
Messages
12,421
Reaction score
27,874
Location
Charlotte area, North Carolina
USDA Zone
8a
Getting there!

As you know with stands, there is a huge difference between a stand that looks good, and a stand that is built well :) The expensive stands all have floating panel tops with biscuits in the frame, and mortise and tenon joints in the legs. Top attached to the legs with wooden pegs or more mortise and tenons. Requires a much higher degree of accuracy than glue and a belt sander - but they will outlast a glued up table by centuries.
 

Velodog2

Chumono
Messages
950
Reaction score
2,065
Location
Central Maryland
Thank you so much everyone!

@Bonsai Nut all those boxes are checked, wherever practical. I believe I skipped the biscuit joining on the top of this particular one because the edges were so narrow and thin I couldn’t practically do it - the standard biscuits are over half the thickness of the top. I may need to develop a method to use on these small, thin models. But the tenons on the stringers, doweling, and floating top are there. Typically my tables hold together without glue. I want these to last a very long time.

@TomB yes I use a scroll saw on the legs. I’ve found some precision machined stainless blades that make much smoother cuts than your typical hardware store blades. Cutting the legs is fun! The edge on the top was done using a 1/2 round over bit underneath and a 1/8 for the little edge on top.

@discusmike I don’t want to know, but fewer than it would have when I started this a year ago! Aggregate time was about four weeks working off and on with other projects.

@SKBonsaiGuy I hope so! I fully intended to make larger tables this winter but love making these little jewels so much I haven’t quite got there. I think this table in particular I’d like to see scaled up.

No one has asked about the walnut dowels ... I am currently purchasing these from a model ship building supply store as I haven’t found a good way to make them myself. But I’m looking for one.
 
Last edited:

jeanluc83

Omono
Messages
1,452
Reaction score
1,623
Location
Eastern Connecticut
USDA Zone
6a
Nice work!

No one has asked about the walnut dowels ... I am currently purchasing these from a model ship building supply store as I haven’t found a good way to make them myself. But I’m looking for one.

I remember seeing a plate you could get with a series of holes with sharp edges in it. You would drive a piece of wood through the holes until you got it to the size you wanted. I'm sure it would take a bit of practice to get good results.

The other way to get small dowels is to make your own on a lathe. I have done this on a metal lathe before. It gets tough when you get below a 1/4 inch.
 

Velodog2

Chumono
Messages
950
Reaction score
2,065
Location
Central Maryland
I have that plate. It’s very satisfying to pound your wood into that hole. Whole lotta banging. But yield is maybe 25% for very short dowels. The grain has to be very straight and still it wanders and you get flat sides. But in desperation it would work, like if I branch out into exotic woods where I cannot buy dowels at all. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

Random User

Guest
Messages
1,313
Reaction score
1,168
I carve smoking pipes out of Kenora Black Soapstone and with a little practice, you can make a near perfect dowel without the use of anything but a knife, (files, rasps, knives, and sandpaper for pipestone) good lighting and your eye. After making a few tables like you have, your eye is sharp enough to see a fraction of a mill variation... just try it, you'll be amazed at how easy it is to do after fiddling around for an hour. (I make use of some sort of white back wall to eyeball the work as I go.)
 

Velodog2

Chumono
Messages
950
Reaction score
2,065
Location
Central Maryland
I carve smoking pipes out of Kenora Black Soapstone and with a little practice, you can make a near perfect dowel without the use of anything but a knife, (files, rasps, knives, and sandpaper for pipestone) good lighting and your eye. After making a few tables like you have, your eye is sharp enough to see a fraction of a mill variation... just try it, you'll be amazed at how easy it is to do after fiddling around for an hour. (I make use of some sort of white back wall to eyeball the work as I go.)

That, sir, sounds impressive and I’ll have to take your word for
It that it is “easy”. I would go nuts I fear trying to make them perfect, and yet I could see how a slight imperfections would add to the charm (the Japanese probably have a better word for it but I’m not going to attempt it) of the table. The obviously manufactured perfection of those I used is almost a detriment when I carefully consider it. Still, some table designs resemble picket fences and use dozens of dowels which I can’t imagine carving by hand or making using that plate.

A guy I chat with in Europe who makes tables also claims he has a practical way to do it, but he won’t share as it’s a hard-won secret.

I can't believe @M. Frary let that one slip by. My apologies, @Velodog2 , very nice table.

I try to make things easy for them ...
thank you for the compliment!
 

Random User

Guest
Messages
1,313
Reaction score
1,168
Just take an hour or two and try it... your first attempt might be a little less than perfect, but you'll probably be left with the feeling that you can accomplish the task. Just don't make the mistake of trying on something really hard like cocobolo, ebony, or tagua nut (both are harder than most people want to mess with, but the tagua nut makes a suitable moc-ivory substitute... I've used them for making earring and belly-ring thingies and numbers for clocks and such, but thats another story.)

Try something semi-hard (because too soft is as difficult as too hard IMHO) like regular pine or spruce, then step up to a fruit wood.

I know that I'm going to contradict myself here, but if you have a piece of balsa wood, try making a 1"x 4" dowel with that, just so you can see how easy it is to get the dimensions right... the point is, it's much easier than you'd think.

As a side note, the Amish, Mennonites, and Hutterites, used to use (and may still make use of) hand-made pins for small appointments to chairs, etc. They whittled the dowels, but left the "heads" various shapes like diamonds, etc. Obviously, the mortise would have to be carved to accommodate the head of the pin, but they added a subtle touch of elegance to a totally utilitarian necessity like a chair... plus, they helped to keep the piece together, although with the proper design and materials, they were hardly needed.
 
Top Bottom