Another American Elm

[evmibo]

1.5 years ago I bought 3 American elms from a landscape wholesaler at $3 each, trunk chopped them and have been training ever since.

I repotted about 3 months ago and all of my trees have been blowing up! I thought I would work on this one today.

 

[KayaMooney]

Do you find leaf reduction or ramification to be any harder with American Elm versus Chinese Elm?

 

[M. Frary]

Just so happens I have couple or a dozen of these. They have bigger leaves than Chinese Elm to start out but you can get them down to under half of an inch or more.
They make excellent bonsai. Down where you are they are called Florida Elm.

 

[evmibo]

Do you find leaf reduction or ramification to be any harder with American Elm versus Chinese Elm?

In general, yes, but I wouldn't say either is hard. These are really fun trees to work with. Good leaf size reduction will come with good ramification.

 

[KayaMooney]

Down where you are they are called Florida Elm.

They're actually the same thing as the American Elm that grows up North, there isn't any difference... Just a name

 

[GrimLore]

Do you find leaf reduction or ramification to be any harder with American Elm versus Chinese Elm?

If you want small foliage on an American Elm it is possible by continuously knocking back new growth to the second or first node. There is one posted here that I cannot seem to find and I posed the same question there. That was the owners method and I have done it this season here - it works!

Grimmy

 

[evmibo]

After looking at the tree in person some I decided to cut back one of the branches, I found it too distracting. Too perpendicular looking for me.

Here's a virt of what I will try to acheive. It will also allow me to pull in some ramification closer to the middle of the tree.

 

[evmibo]

About a month later...

A lot of growth, keeping the structure in check. I'm pretty happy with the direction of the tree, would love to hear any constructive criticism from the more experienced.. There's a lot of people here that have opinions that I value.

Picture one shows a little after I started to prune back.
Picture two shows a dragonfly, where he decided to take his final resting place... Thought it was kind of neat.
Picture three, done for now.

 

[evmibo]

Still, a lot of growth. Trying to keep it balanced and organized so I trimmed again today.

Picture 1: Just started.
Picture 2: What I've been calling the front.
Picture 3: I like this as a front more now.

 

[sorce]

I didn't like the redline cut idea.....

Then it seemed ok because the left flows up and the right more straight out.

Then looking at the last pic with the new front....I would have liked to see foilage there again where it was.

It doesn't really matter though with all that growth! You can grow anything back out in a year!

My only real concern would be getting that middle chops healed. I have one i didnt think would close....but after leaving an escape branch all year, I have great hopes for a good healing.

If you can find a place to let one grow out, I highly recommend it.

Very nice. Thanks for the updates!

Sorce

 

[evmibo]

I was hoping for a backbud to come at the edge of the redline cut. No luck so far. A big reason I wanted to cut it was because it was too long at the same width (it had no taper and looked awkward to me).

If a new bud starts on the edge of the cut I will not have a problem healing that area. Just need that bud to break!

If it comes down to it I will cut the remaining stub off and start a new branch from there to create more taper.

Are you talking about growing it out in the ground? I'm making beds this winter for early spring transplants, but honestly hadn't considered this tree for the ground - I had planned on keeping it smaller... That being said, one year in the ground might be beneficial.

Thanks for the comments.

 

[GrimLore]

I was hoping for a backbud to come at the edge of the redline cut. No luck so far.

Thanks for the comments.

We have a few American Elm in pots at various "younger stages". The tallest oldest has been kept a little over two foot tall with a 1 inch base in a 1/2 inch deep saucer Being the 3rd season since a tiny seedling it has started to back bud on old wood this year. They do back bud on branches cut back as far as the first node when younger which builds nice ramification and smaller leafs. To me that suggests they need to be 4 seasons old "in my conditions" to back bud on old growth. Either way I see they grow like weeds in the worst potted conditions so tossing one in the ground I cannot imagine. Ours are all in pots in SOLID root and watered by filling the trays they sit in

Grimmy

 

[mcpesq817]

Either way I see they grow like weeds in the worst potted conditions so tossing one in the ground I cannot imagine

I had a volunteer one-year old seedling in the yard that spent it's second year in a pot, and then was planted in the ground on a tile. In two years, it is about 15' tall with a 2"+ trunk. It probably would be bigger than that had I not tried the trick of putting a hose clamp on the base as a layer method to get a spreading nebari.

 

[sorce]

Not in the ground. Has to be at least 3 years ive read. Seems to be growing plenty!

Just let one shoot run to heal the cut better.

I keep mine trimmed for shape. Except for a sacrifice on any branch that needs it. I keep at least a weekly eye for them getting out of hand. Bulging and reverse taper.

Oh. "Find a place to grow one out" one branch. Meaning the back of the tree, or a place that wont ruin your tree growing or after you cut it off.

You just really have to be putting on wood somewhere above the cut so it will heal.

This is only if you wish it to heal. Just don't want you to be stuck thinking it wont heal. Thats where I was. But now I think I can get it to heal!

Love the new bud for taper idea. You are really doing right by this tree!

Sorce

 

[sorce]

The left branch on top. And the right branch on bottom are the ones not in the design, but growing out for healing.

Right bottom being a new apex runner too.

Sorce