Advice on planting cuttings

[brp7]

Hello,

After my initial attempt many months back to plant cuttings of Cassia Fistula (golden shower), I have some 1-inch cuttings again to save time for growth. I thought I would avoid soil altogether in the pots. I planted a smaller cutting today with coconut peat and perlite. However, it is shaky as the pot is small. What should I do or add for the cuttings to be firm after planting? Is it a better idea to remove the outer layer 1-2 inches at the bottom just as we do for the air layering?

I do have a tiny Cassia Fistula plant I bought, and it is fine, but it would take at least two years to reach the level of these cuttings.

Thanks.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Not sure why using soli would be a bad thing? We do a good deal of cuttings, not Cassia Fistula, yet the key thing in striking all cuttings is to ensure the cutting is stable. So one might use a larger pot so the cutting is stable?

There are a number of YouTube streams on striking cuttings of Cassia Fistula. One actually uses 4-6” cuttings. You might check these out.

Good luck
DSD sends

 

[brp7]

I

Not sure why using soli would be a bad thing? We do a good deal of cuttings, not Cassia Fistula, yet the key thing in striking all cuttings is to ensure the cutting is stable. So one might use a larger pot so the cutting is stable?

There are a number of YouTube streams on striking cuttings of Cassia Fistula. One actually uses 4-6” cuttings. You might check these out.

Good luck
DSD sends

I am certainly keeping one or two cuttings in the soil. As you said, I would transfer it to a larger pot. what do you think about removing the outer layer and dipping it in root powder?

 

[RoadManDenDron]

what do you think about removing the outer layer and dipping it in root powder?

I am not familiar with Cassia Fistula, but on an air layer the girdle is more about seperating the cambium above the layer from the cambium underneath the layer, with a cutting this is obviously already done by cutting.

I'm not saying it wouldn't root if you girdled your cutting, what is important is a sharp straight cut on your cutting which does as little damage to cambium as possible.

it seems you have an experimental mind, which is great, keep trying out different ideas and see what works best for you would be my advice

 

[Shibui]

The idea behind avoiding soil is that it contains so many fungi and pests that can infect the raw cuts necessary for a cutting. Propagating mix should be relatively free of pathogens.
A bark free base is likely to just expose more wounded wood to soil bacteria so MAY be counterproductive. Maybe planting the cuttings deeper or in a larger container might stabilize them?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

There are many ways to strike cutting….. and as many media too, with pluses and minus for each…from sharp sand to rooting powder in water. Looks like the same for Cassia Fistula.

Anyways, an airlayer technique on the cutting bottom end would only push the probable rooting area up higher to the cambium ring there. Adding rooting powder on the end might help.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Theo Smith]

Hello,

After my initial attempt many months back to plant cuttings of Cassia Fistula (golden shower), I have some 1-inch cuttings again to save time for growth. I thought I would avoid soil altogether in the pots. I planted a smaller cutting today with coconut peat and perlite. However, it is shaky as the pot is small. What should I do or add for the cuttings to be firm after planting? Is it a better idea to remove the outer layer 1-2 inches at the bottom just as we do for the air layering?

I do have a tiny Cassia Fistula plant I bought, and it is fine, but it would take at least two years to reach the level of these cuttings.

Thanks.

This is my tried and true method to stabilize cuttings while they root. In summary, I poke holes in the pot and wire the cutting to the pot. Then cut and remove the wire at the right time.

If you use a plastic container/nursery pot, you can poke two holes in the side, above the soil/aggregate surface and about an 1.5” apart from each other. Leave the container empty until wiring and positioning is completed. (I heat a piece of galvanized steel wire to red hot and use it poke clean holes. Pick a well ventilated area.)

I then loosely wire around the intended trunk or a lower branch, leave a length of excess wire (typically coming off of the lower end of the cutting) and feed the wire out of one hole and bend it back into the adjacent hole. The important part is to now bend the end of the wire back over the lip of the pot and it’ll anchor that connection.

I then bend the cutting down into the container to the desired depth and angle. The wire should be holding the cutting in place, on its own.

I carefully fill the container with my choice of aggregate/soil/medium. Then cut the wire off when the time is right.

I can give more clarification if you desire. I’ve found this to be the best method as the roots are able to take hold, undisturbed throughout the process.