Adding Mycorrhiza to my mix.

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Hi folks,
I was wondering if adding mycorrhiza to my pine mix before potting up is is going to be beneficial at all.
There's always a certain percentage lost during root pruning and i wondered if this would help to speed up its re-population/growth?
As far as collection is concerned, ive noted that healthy populations of this fungus can be found just under the dead needle mass that covers the ground,around the base of many pine trees.
I'm very interested to hear your opinions on this...thanks for taking the time to reply, cheers
 
If you’re talking about the canned mycorrhiza spores, I have a pal that works in a lab at a large arboretum. They tested quite a number of brands and couldn’t find any DNA of mycorrhiza in any of them.
 
Hi folks,
I was wondering if adding mycorrhiza to my pine mix before potting up is is going to be beneficial at all.
There's always a certain percentage lost during root pruning and i wondered if this would help to speed up its re-population/growth?
As far as collection is concerned, ive noted that healthy populations of this fungus can be found just under the dead needle mass that covers the ground,around the base of many pine trees.
I'm very interested to hear your opinions on this...thanks for taking the time to reply, cheers
Use well-rotted pine bark it has it already (white fungus)
 
Leave a bit of mycorrhiza on the pine(s) you are transplanting. Then you will know you have active product and the right type.
 
Last edited:
Hi folks,
I was wondering if adding mycorrhiza to my pine mix before potting up is is going to be beneficial at all.
There's always a certain percentage lost during root pruning and i wondered if this would help to speed up its re-population/growth?
As far as collection is concerned, ive noted that healthy populations of this fungus can be found just under the dead needle mass that covers the ground,around the base of many pine trees.
I'm very interested to hear your opinions on this...thanks for taking the time to reply, cheers
If you create a viable environment inside the container with soil components and fertilizer, the myc will show up on its own.
 
If you create a viable environment inside the container with soil components and fertilizer, the myc will show up on its own.
This has been my experience also, ive often had it show up in hornbeam/beech pots
 
Leave a bit of mycorrhiza on the pine(s) you are transplanting. Then you will know you have active product and the right type.
Hi penumbra,
I try to leave as much as possible and gather any pieces that come off the root ball during teasing (the clean bits minus any broken roots etc, of course).
I throw this back in with the new mix as im of the thought that "it cant hurt".
 
If you’re talking about the canned mycorrhiza spores, I have a pal that works in a lab at a large arboretum. They tested quite a number of brands and couldn’t find any DNA of mycorrhiza in any of them.

wow 😂
 
Thanks for the replies everyone...
Sounds like the mycorrhiza will populate the root ball of its own accord and doesnt really need assistance.
I was of the thought that adding mycorrhiza spores would help to 're-populate' the rootball quicker...which could be beneficial during the primary stages of root growth/development.
 
Hi penumbra,
I try to leave as much as possible and gather any pieces that come off the root ball during teasing (the clean bits minus any broken roots etc, of course).
I throw this back in with the new mix as im of the thought that "it cant hurt".
You are doing more than enough. It doesn't take much more than a little of the old in a friendly environment.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone...
Sounds like the mycorrhiza will populate the root ball of its own accord and doesnt really need assistance.
I was of the thought that adding mycorrhiza spores would help to 're-populate' the rootball quicker...which could be beneficial during the primary stages of root growth/development.
The problem with adding canned myc to soil is that myc is species-specific--There is no "generic" myc really and there are different kinds--some colonize the tips of roots, others colonize the interior of root cells...Adding it to a repotted tree that already has the appropriate species (which shows up on its own and is apparently already present in the tree) is that it mostly useless. The appropriate myc will reproduce and recolonize without any assistance.
 
This has been my experience also, ive often had it show up in hornbeam/beech pots
Hornbeams and Beeches from nurseries are usually planted in inoculated soil, so it's not really that these mycs come out of the blue sky. ;-)

That being said.

This is my view:
Mycorrhizal inoculation is a weird process. There are types of fungi that can live on their own and attach to a tree later in life. There are also types that can't live without a tree, and spores more or less need to land on a root, or grow from one root to another (communal inoculation) to survive.
Then there's this stuff called "environment" that can be beneficial or detrimental to fungal growth. Not every myc will live inside a plastic pot, others don't like wooden pots, others don't like clay. Some can degrade pumice, others only volcanic rocks. Some need a specific pH range, others do just fine in every environment.

I've had this discussion about a hundred times already, and I think it boils down to: It doesn't hurt to add some spores to your soil if you have the money, myc will eventually show up but in all honesty this can be a decade long process; a billion spores released 3 miles from your home will cause about 3-4 to land in your back yard, you'd need at least two spores close to each other landing inside your pot. Luckily there are hundred of mushrooms pushing spores at the same time, billions every day per mushroom. A thriving fungal community inside your pot can be decimated in a single drought, or with a fertilizer application, or a hot day. So spending a lot of money on it, isn't really worth it. If you want good culture inside your pots, just find the tree species you want to inoculate in the wild and transfer some dirt from the wild root tips to your pot.
This action will not only inoculate it with a community of favorable fungi, but also with helper bacteria. If the wild is close to your home, you can even bet on it that you're inoculating it for the right environment. Then again, a pot is hard to compare with the soil in the wild. You'll never know what you're going to get.
So yeah, doing nothing works, doing something works. No reason to get your panties fired up about it.

I suggest everyone to just start growing some shrooms or molds for themselves. It really provides some insights in fungal life and it would surely numb down some strong convictions. I've been doing so for about 10 years and I'm in the process of trying to isolate my perfect pine culture. It's been pretty difficult really, even though I can transfer up to 30% of the soil of one tree to another pot with the same scots pine, it's no guarantee that the fungus will continue growing. But when it does the effects are wonderful...
Keep in mind that even though biologists have been trying for decades, an estimated 90% of all microbial life hasn't been cultured in a petri dish yet. There's so much we don't know yet. I feel like it's weird to make strong claims about it.
 
I have some 2 year old black pines in large particles pumice and perlite with slow release on top. And when I pull them out of the little pots it is full of mycorrhizal mycelium. Even has the roots of the tree suspended in it since the particle medium is so large. They are doing well for what they are in and the tiny containers.
 
Hornbeams and Beeches from nurseries are usually planted in inoculated soil, so it's not really that these mycs come out of the blue sky. ;-)

That being said.

This is my view:
Mycorrhizal inoculation is a weird process. There are types of fungi that can live on their own and attach to a tree later in life. There are also types that can't live without a tree, and spores more or less need to land on a root, or grow from one root to another (communal inoculation) to survive.
Then there's this stuff called "environment" that can be beneficial or detrimental to fungal growth. Not every myc will live inside a plastic pot, others don't like wooden pots, others don't like clay. Some can degrade pumice, others only volcanic rocks. Some need a specific pH range, others do just fine in every environment.

I've had this discussion about a hundred times already, and I think it boils down to: It doesn't hurt to add some spores to your soil if you have the money, myc will eventually show up but in all honesty this can be a decade long process; a billion spores released 3 miles from your home will cause about 3-4 to land in your back yard, you'd need at least two spores close to each other landing inside your pot. Luckily there are hundred of mushrooms pushing spores at the same time, billions every day per mushroom. A thriving fungal community inside your pot can be decimated in a single drought, or with a fertilizer application, or a hot day. So spending a lot of money on it, isn't really worth it. If you want good culture inside your pots, just find the tree species you want to inoculate in the wild and transfer some dirt from the wild root tips to your pot.
This action will not only inoculate it with a community of favorable fungi, but also with helper bacteria. If the wild is close to your home, you can even bet on it that you're inoculating it for the right environment. Then again, a pot is hard to compare with the soil in the wild. You'll never know what you're going to get.
So yeah, doing nothing works, doing something works. No reason to get your panties fired up about it.

I suggest everyone to just start growing some shrooms or molds for themselves. It really provides some insights in fungal life and it would surely numb down some strong convictions. I've been doing so for about 10 years and I'm in the process of trying to isolate my perfect pine culture. It's been pretty difficult really, even though I can transfer up to 30% of the soil of one tree to another pot with the same scots pine, it's no guarantee that the fungus will continue growing. But when it does the effects are wonderful...
Keep in mind that even though biologists have been trying for decades, an estimated 90% of all microbial life hasn't been cultured in a petri dish yet. There's so much we don't know yet. I feel like it's weird to make strong claims about it.
Ive seen it in the soil after theyve been in bonsai pots, so a mixture of compost, molar, pine bark, pumice etc. My big belly hornbeam had it in. will post an image if i can find it, was looking for it for the other thread about myc

ive used the spores before, who knows there could be spores still scattered around my balcony. Its not something id buy again tho, along with rhizatone, cannazyn n all the other fancy stuff bought over the years.
 
When you take dirt from the wild, I would assume youre getting everything that lives around the species in question - including all the pathogens. And so all the hurdles for symbiotes that were reasons for you to make the effort of inoculation, also were barriers of entry against pathogens that you broke through. Might have never gotten x harmful fungus otherwise.

I bought some inoculated grit from mailot and now a few months after application there is visible mykorhiza in the pine bark around the area, but still confined to a small patch
 
Often would get fungi pop up in this nursery taxus after it was transplated into another pot with good soil
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These ones I used to use quite often, but now i only use fish emulsion, sea weed n a mixture of ferts
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My youngest two children have been having fun digging for these in the wood chips while playing at a local park.
IMG_20220912_125905_171.jpg
They grow in a layer about a foot down where the wood mulch stays damp after a wet spell, or in places constantly shaded by the playground equipment.
The kids always want to bring them home, so I'm going to break them up and add them to my vegetable garden plot and potting mix.
 
When you take dirt from the wild, I would assume youre getting everything that lives around the species in question - including all the pathogens.
This is good food for another discussion!
Because a tree that works with a symbiont to suppress a pathogen, could also help the symbiont get the upper hand.
Evolution goes way faster when you're spoonfed nutrients, and the enemy isn't.
The chance of a pathogen or a symbiotic fungus ending up in your plant is higher for the pathogen anyways; it's evolved to spread with precision, whereas static communities of myc fungi usually are not that far on the "prone to spread far and wide".
Take needle cast for example; it attacks and spreads from the foliage, that provides a way bigger range for aerial spread than the needlecast-killing myc on the ground popping a few mushrooms.
So I think one can wonder what's better or worse :)


@BobbyLane Dude, if Canna is involved in some way or another, or if it's used in weed groweries, you can bet on it that you're paying 40 pounds for the label and 4 for the product. I did a comparison of nutrient composition once, and the most expensive ganja nutrients came close to the cheapest general purpose fertilizer.
Although I'm a big fan of kelp and those humic/fulvic acids.
 
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