Acer palmatum beni chidori (from cutting)

[clem]

hi, the tree with its fall colors ->
autumn colors are different this year (orange/pink) from last year (red), dunno why.

 

[clem]

A few days later, the leaves colors changed : they are now red. So it was just a matter of time to get the red fall colors.
I pruned that tree but there are still sacrifice branche (1rst branch) on it ->


After pruning ->


A virtual of the trunk line (orange or green line) ->


A close up pic of the sapp getting out of the cuts (the tree is still active now) ->

 

[Fan Tan Fannie]

Thank you for demonstrating the progress. I am inspired to grow my JMs out. What are the dimensions of your grow box? Almost all of my JM's trunk width is similar to yours. I am thinking to take them out of the bonsai pots and thicken the trunks. They don't grow all that much in the small pots. I want to see if I should go for 15 inch or 20 inch wide plastic planter. Thanks!

 

[clem]

hello, not sure of this one, and i'm @work, but it is approx 40cm x 30cm x 7cm

yes, grow box enables to grow palmatum very quick, if the tree is frequently watered ( as soon as the soil surface satrts to dry out) and fertilisation (organic and chemical fertilisation).

 

[clem]

hello, i removed the soil to check the nebari of this tree. I have now a dilemma on the best front to choose, because the base of the back side of this tree is far better (larger and more charismatic) than the base of the actual front. The problem with the back side is the slight convexity of the trunk and the showy scars.
The nebari of the front has a "hole" in the middle but the front has no scar. The upper part of the trunk has also a convexity (= aggressive/disgraceful)

Back side (that may become the front ? ) ->




The actual front ->



On the actual front, the trunk has a convexity (not very elegant) and the nebari has a "hole" on the middle although i put a tourniquet to try to stimulate new roots. The green line is a very well placed small root that i hope will grow in the future ->

 

[leatherback]

I think the current front is fine. WIth proper rootwork you will probably get more roots in the nebari.

I would however consider getting rid of the fat first branch. It is too heavy for the current trunk diameter, imho

 

[clem]

thanks.
This first branche is a sacrifice branche, i will cut it next summer

 

[Dav4]

Yes, I'd keep the current front and consider grafting roots in the gap in the front nebari at the next opportunity.... overall, the roots aren't bad at all but they can always be made better.

 

[clem]

Yes, I'd keep the current front and consider grafting roots in the gap in the front nebari at the next opportunity.... overall, the roots aren't bad at all but they can always be made better.

i agree with you that a root graft would be the best. Never done approach graft, but if i find a thin Beni chidori cutting, i'll try a graft for sure !

 

[Dav4]

i agree with you that a root graft would be the best. Never done approach graft, but if i find a thin Beni chidori cutting, i'll try a graft for sure !

A thread graft would work. Also, I think any A. palmatum seedling would work, unless there's something particular about Beni chidori bark that I'm not familiar with.

 

[clem]

you mean a graft by drilling the trunk and inserting a graft ?

 

[Dav4]

you mean a graft by drilling the trunk and inserting a graft ?

Yes.

 

[clem]

good idea. It seems easier to do than an approach graft, although i never made any graft

i prefer to use a Beni Chidori graft, in order to have the same look of all the nebari later

 

[Paulpash]

good idea. It seems easier to do than an approach graft, although i never made any graft

i prefer to use a Beni Chidori graft, in order to have the same look of all the nebari later

It won't matter. Unless you graft something like Arakawa which can have rough bark even on roots you'll not be able to differentiate. I'm sure @MACH5 can chip in as he's done a lot of root grafts.

 

[0soyoung]

i prefer to use a Beni Chidori graft, in order to have the same look of all the nebari later

If so, root some cuttings from the tree next May. Then you'll have them for making root grafts in 2022.

 

[leatherback]

Have you considered thread-grafting a root directly?

But still, I think no need to graft. Plant an inch deeper. Do a proper trim of the roots. And you will have your roots in 2 years too.

 

[clem]

I dunno thread-grafting roots but for sure i'll try to buy a small Beni chidori cutting from my nursery .. If i can't have one, i'll drill a little hole between those big roots, and put sphagnum moss in order to stimulate new roots to grow. I think a thread graft of a young cutting would be the more effective way to create roots on this place, and it will give me a new experience

 

[clem]

If so, root some cuttings from the tree next May. Then you'll have them for making root grafts in 2022.

If i can't buy small cutting from my nursery untill next spring , i'll try to make cuttings by myself, but i fear it isn't very easy to succeed.. Dunno, never tried cuttings, but i have vermiculite

 

[0soyoung]

If i can't buy small cutting from my nursery untill next spring , i'll try to make cuttings by myself, but i fear it isn't very easy to succeed.. Dunno, never tried cuttings, but i have vermiculite

You say that your tree is from a cutting, so you know cuttings will root. You should try even if you can get small rooted cuttings from your nursery next spring.

Rooting cuttings and grafting are good skills to have, I think.

 

[MACH5]

good idea. It seems easier to do than an approach graft, although i never made any graft

i prefer to use a Beni Chidori graft, in order to have the same look of all the nebari later

I think anyone would be hard pressed to tell the difference between what's grafted and what's not. The roots will all appear pretty much identical. So not really necessary to use beni-chidori cuttings for root grafts. Save those to make more future bonsai. In the case of arakawa, a very different story as @Paulpash mentioned. You must use arakawa cuttings (or air layers) as the roots will develop rough bark in years to come and be able to match the rest of the tree.