4 new large olives

maroun.c

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Got.these olives back in June, they were due to be removed so took the risk although I was told.most probably they won't make the shift as the base would be huge under the soil.
Managed to squeeze the in these pots and stabilized them well.
Leaves browned out after couple weeks but few leaves remain green and some branches are green. I try to mist them daily to keep them wet.
Do you advise plucking the old.leaves and reducing the branches a bit to reduce water demand till trees create new roots ?
Its been around 2.months post repot but I don't see any signs of new growth,.should I gertilize lightly or wait ? One other tree has a bit more green but still no new growth do I hold off fertilizing still?
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Thanks
 
You shouldnt fertilize them until you see new growth happening/

Unfortunately they dont look like they are recovering well. Fertilizing them wont help that.
Just keep them adequately watered but not overwatered and hope for the best

I think you should have transitioned them to much larger pots to recover.
The pot you have them in are pretty small for that trunk and there probably wasnt enough roots to support the mass of tree
 
When we collect big olive, pomegranate and other Mediterranean plants (or trunk chunks) in the summer, we sink them deep big pots of pure sand. The plants then push tons of new roots and can be repotted in the following spring into shallower containers (although probably not into shallow bonsai containers like yours). It's nearly full-proof.

Yours look pretty fried, but these plants are resilient and if you can get them into bigger pots now, they may have a chance.

Check out this: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/the-early-days-progress-thread.39525/#post-667477

And this: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/norcal-poms.40563/

Pomegranate, but olive react similarly.
 
They came with very little roots so I thought to go for final pot size directly to avoid a large pot and a root reduction later on, donu think I should move to larger pots at this stage or will this kill any new roots that are forming ?
 
I would carefully move them to sand. Prepare the new pot with a hole in the sand that is about the same size as the existing pot. Then slip off the old pot as carefully as possible with out disturbing the soil. Then water then in well. Good luck, the first tree looks amazing.
 
It will be almost impossible to move these trees now without disturbing the soil. Maybe a larger pot at the start would have been a better option but what has been done is done. In my opinion moving them now will only cause new roots to break and set them back further so I'd just leave them, continue care and hope.
It is not uncommon for olives to drop leaves after collection s they adjust leaf mass to available roots. It can also take up to a year for new shoots to start. I would just let them alone and wait for signs of growth. You can prune off any obviously dead branching but any green leaves will be helping the plant. Any truly dead branches will not do any harm either so leaving them alone is the best course until you can see what is going to survive.
 
Thanks for all the input. When I went to collect them they had been removed from soil and I was expecting intact root balls hence the bonsai pots...
For next time just for my knowledge would you use regular sand ? Seed it with any organics for a bit of nutrition ???
Will proceed removing dry brown leaves abd will preserve any branches with signs of life and for sure any green leaves.
 
I've dug quite a few olives. Over here they are becoming an environmental weed in places so freely available and we get a bit of practice without cost in case of failure.
Success rate of 100%. I thought one was not going to make it but after nearly a year it decided to perk up and produce new shoots.
Roots are cut really short at collection. In many cases there are almost no fine roots around the base of the tree so none to collect. Some of the older trees have grown a few smaller roots from the lignotuber which do give the transplant a head start but it seems that there is no need to try to collect and retain roots. Some club members just dig down to the widest part of the lignotuber and then saw the tree off with a chainsaw and plant the result 'flat bottom' tree as a giant cutting. Success is still good with this method.
Needless to say with so few roots it is almost impossible to retain field soil on the collected olives. In any case I don't like field soil in my pots so generally shake of as much soil as will easily drop away from ALL collected trees regardless of species. Even if a species has associated fungi, etc there will still be plenty on the soil adhering to roots to recolonize the new pot so retaining field soil is a myth in my opinion.
Removing field soil allows me to start the transplanted tree in the soil it will grow in for the future. All my transplants go directly into the same mix I use in all pots. That mix is designed to be the best I can manage for pot culture. I know how to maintain water and nutrients to trees potted in that mix. Why would I use some other mix that requires a changed care regime when this one is so good? Coarse sand has been mentioned and would probably be a second choice for recovering transplants but I would have to relearn watering, etc to maintain optimum moisture and nutrient levels so I'll stick to the standard mix until someone can prove that something like sand would be better. Note that 'sand' varies a lot in texture an particle size. What one person considers sand would be gravel to another or too fine for some. i would be interested to hear what characteristics the sand that @BonjourBonsai uses has, especially particle size.
We have collected all year round down here with some minor differences in recovery but all have so far survived. Note our winter nights only just dip below freezing which may be a factor in seasonal differences in suitable time to collect species like olives. My preferred time of year is mid - late spring into early summer when most olive transplants seem to respond quickest.
Quick replanting does not seem to matter. Our trees are usually just piled into the back of an open tray truck for the drive home so roots may be exposed to the air for a few hours to half a day at least. I try to pot up reasonably soon but if I can't do so within a few hours I just dunk the bases into a tub of water until I can find the time.

There may be alternative approaches that work just as well but what I have been doing seems to work well here.
 
I have struck olive cuttings by literally taking a newly cut 2 inch log, sticking one end in the ground and keeping it watered over winter. The ground was rocky sand with some clay. This was in Aragon, Spain so a different climate than my current location. It did receive frost and a dusting of snow. I imagine Beirut's climate is similar and a little warmer since it is closer to the water.

@Shibui would you recommend tenting @maroun.c 's cuttings in plastic to increase moisture until some roots can grow?
 
@Shibui would you recommend tenting @maroun.c 's cuttings in plastic to increase moisture until some roots can grow?
Tents are something I have not tried because the trees I collect seem to do well without it. I suspect it is too late for any remedial measures at this stage and with olive I would have some concern that high humidity could even make things worse. Olives are tough. They will survive if they possibly can.
I have struck olive cuttings by literally taking a newly cut 2 inch log, sticking one end in the ground and keeping it watered over winter. The ground was rocky sand with some clay.
I've been told that can be done but to my frustration every cutting I have tried from Kalamata olive has failed. Maybe I'm trying too hard or making conditions too good for them.
 
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