18-18-18 fertilizer

Corwyn13

Yamadori
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--So I posted in another thread about my bald cypress turning brown and her as well as a couple of other people suggested that it's chlorosis and to use 18-18-18 but I cant seem to find any.
can someone help? thanks
 
Why 18-18-18? That is definitely not the ratios that plants use N,P and K so a large proportion of that fert will be wasted and probably end up polluting some water body.

Can't see why fertilizer would help with chlorosis which is usually brought on by high pH or low iron unless it is acidifying fert or contains high levels of iron.
Treat low pH with acidifying fert to reduce pH back close to neutral an the locked up iron will be available to the plant. Adding extra iron, especially chelated iron which is acid, will give extra in the soil so the plant can get enough even with high pH so chelated iron is often recommended for chlorotic plants.
 
If it is chlorosis, you need to give the tree some iron. As Shibui said, chelated iron is best. It usually comes in liquid form you can mix with water and give to the trees.

Keep in mind it will take some time to get the color back. I had a Japanese white pine turn yellowish on me and it took a few months of giving chelated iron twice a month for it to turn dark green again
 
--So I posted in another thread about my bald cypress turning brown and her as well as a couple of other people suggested that it's chlorosis and to use 18-18-18 but I cant seem to find any.
can someone help? thanks
Chlorosis is not brown foliage. It is a yellowing of green leaves due to lack of chlorophyll. There are almost as many potential causes of chlorosis as there are plants :) I was able to unintentially trigger chlorosis in some of my trees by using a system anti-fungal this summer. It can be brought on by not enough fertilizer - or too much. Water pH too high, or too low. Too much water. Not enough light. Etc.

Photos would help us diagnose the problem.
 
Throwing pellets of concentrated balanced chemical fertilzier at a stressed tree this late in the growing season doesn't sound smart.
And 'turning brown' doesn't sound like chlorosis.
And fertilizer always depends on your soil/substrate.
 
--So I posted in another thread about my bald cypress turning brown and her as well as a couple of other people suggested that it's chlorosis and to use 18-18-18 but I cant seem to find any.
can someone help? thanks
Bald Cypresss can go brown or bronzish at the end of summer. Sun and heat can do it. Happens every so often. The issue is if the browned foliage is crispy or still pliable (bendy). If it's the latter, wouldn't worry about things. If it's crispy, its a root issue....
 
Why 18-18-18? That is definitely not the ratios that plants use N,P and K so a large proportion of that fert will be wasted and probably end up polluting some water body.

Can't see why fertilizer would help with chlorosis which is usually brought on by high pH or low iron unless it is acidifying fert or contains high levels of iron.
Treat low pH with acidifying fert to reduce pH back close to neutral an the locked up iron will be available to the plant. Adding extra iron, especially chelated iron which is acid, will give extra in the soil so the plant can get enough even with high pH so chelated iron is often recommended for chlorotic plants.

Yellowing of the leaves, either with or without green veins, can have several causes. Not just an iron deficiency in the leaves. However, chlorosis with green veins and no spots is usually an iron deficiency.
And even if it is caused by an iron deficiency, it indeed doesn't mean there is a lack iron in the soil.
It can also be a nitrogen or manganese deficiency. When leaves appear deficient, it is often good to look at if the nutrient is mobile by seeing if the symptoms appear on the new or on the old growth.
If a nutrient is mobile, most plant species will break down for chlorophyll in old leaves, and transport the nutrients to the leaf tips. Meaning, old leaves will appear chlorotic, but new ones won't.
If it is not able to do this, then the old leaves will stay green and the new leaves will be chlorotic.
For example, nitrogen usually is mobile while iron is not.

Chelated iron usually is pretty safe to apply. Just figure out which dilution to use. EDTA or EDDHA doesn't really matter too much, but EDDHA will be preferred but also more expensive. EDDHA is a more effective chelating agent and thus has a wider pH range. It should be taken up even through the leaves.
Fe2+ itself is a Lewis acid. It can precipitate out a small amount of -OH, resulting in a shift towards more H+, raising the acidity, lowering the pH. Not sure what the pH of a Fe2-EDTA solution would be. EDTA is basic. And it specifically prevents Fe2+ from precipitating with OH-, or anything else.
 
The reason bald cypress can go bronze in summer is a mite infestation. Happens in the wild too.

"The other problem, which is fairly common in Arkansas, is an eriophyid mite that can cause significant bronzing of the foliage by mid-summer. "


 
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